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THE

EDINBURGH MAGAZINE,

OR

LITERARY MISCELLANY,

FOR JUNE 1800.

FOR THE EDINBURGH MAGAZINE.

AN EXCURSION FROM BERWICK UPON TWEED, TO THE HERMITAGE NEAR WARKWORTH,

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We embarked in a little boat from Berwick upon Tweed, and in about two hours reached Holy Ifland. By the ebbing and flowing of the tide, this place is two times a continent, and as often an island, in one day: the village is chiefly inhabited by fishermen; we faw nothing worth notice but the venerable remains of Lindesfarn and the caftle, acceffible only by a winding path, cut on the fouth fide of the rock on which it ftands. We left Holy Island and landed on House Island, one of the Farn ilands, where there is a light-houfe, the remains of a fquare tower, the church, which is now converted into a dwelling houfe, inhabited by the light-houfe keeper, and fome other buildings now in ruins. At the north

end of the ifland, from the top to the bottom of the rock is a deep chafm, which has a communication with the fea, through which the wa ter, in tempestuous weather, is forced with great violence to the height of 60 feet and upwards; a fine breeze foon brought us to Bamborough Caftle, a place of great antiquity, and was a fortrefs of great strength in the early time of the Saxons; apartments and beds are here fitted up for failors fhipwrecked on the coaft, a conftant patrole is kept every flormy night, for above 8 miles of the fea coaft: by this philanthropic inflitution many valuable lives have been faved, Leaving Bamborough, we paffed through Embleton, and croffed the bridge over the Alne to Alnwick, a pretty little town: the buildings are chiefly modern, and fome of them approach to elegance: the castle, which belongs to the Duke of Northumberland, is a building which at once unites all the magnificence and grandeur of the old taste, with the elegance of modern improvement. The freedom of this Borough was one of king John's ridiculous inftitutions, who ordained

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that

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"The king was a comical man,
And deem'd this a lack of respect;
And ftraightway concerted a plan,

To punish the town for neglect. "And therefore a royal decree,

His comical noddle produc'd; That no man a burgefs fhould be, But who like himself had been fluic'd. Vint's Mead of Momus.

We had a pleasant ride through a finely cultivated country to Warkworth, fituated on the northern inclination of a hill, forming a pleasing though fteep approach to the caftle: we paffed about half a mile up the river Coquet to the Hermitage; the approach is kept in excellent order; we were conducted by a narrow walk to the door of the Hermitage, lofty and perpendicular rocks confining the walk to the width of four feet: from the fummit of the cliffs a grove of oaks is fufpended, giving a folemn shade; and at their foot iffues a spring of the purest water which formerly fupplied the reclufe.

The chapel is ftill entire, and is extremely fmall, being only 18 feet long, and 7 broad and high, in which there is a fmall tomb or monument on the fouth fide of the altar, and on the top lyes a figure delicately defigned in a praying attitude;

about the tomb are feveral other figures cut in the rock, there are like

wife two other apartments adjoining to the chapel. The Hermitage is elegantly defcribed by the ingenious Dr Percy, in his beautiful poem of the Hermit of Warkworth, from which I have been tempted to infert the following accurate defcription.

And now attended by their hoft,

The hermitage they view'd,
Deep hewn within a craggy cliff,
And overhung with wood.
And near a flight of fhapely fteps,

All cut with nicest skill,

And piercing through a ftony arch,
Ran winding up the hill.

There, deck'd with many a flower and herb,

His little garden stands;
With fruitful trees in fhady rows,

All planted by his hands.
Then, fcoop'd within the folid rock,
Three facred vaults he fhews;
The chief a chapel, neatly arch'd,
On branching columns rofe.

Each proper ornament was there,
That should a chapel grace;
The lattice for confeffion fram'd
With holy-water Vafe.
O'er either door a facred text
Invites to godly fear;
And in a little 'fcutcheon hung,

The cross, the crown, and fpear.
Up to the altar's ample breadth

Two eafy fteps afcend;
And near a glimmering folemn light
Two well-wrought windows lend.
Befide the altar rofe a tomb,

All in the living stone;
On which a young and beauteous maid
In goodly fculpture fhone.
A kneeling angel fairly carv'd,

Lean'd hovering o'er her breast;
A weeping warrior at her feet,

And near to thefe her creft.
The cliff, the vault, but chief the tomb,
Attract the wondering pair:
Eager they afk, What hapless dame

Lies fculptur'd here fo fair!
The hermit figh'd; the hermit wept,

For forrow scarce could fpeak;
At length he wip'd the trickling tears
That all bedew'd his cheek ;

Alas! my children, human life

Is but a vale of woe;

And very mournful is the tale,
Which ye fo fain would know.

G. T.

AC.

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