Gaube, our point of destination: they stepped from rock to rock with wonderful agility and precision; and I, though completely unaccustomed to such a mode of conveyance, and frequently passing close to the edge of frightful abysses, in a very short time became quite confident that there was no danger: once or twice they obliged me to get out and walk, or rather to clamber up, for it was too precipitous to remain with safety in the chair. We passed men blasting the rocks to make a better path; I should say to form one; for, at one part, to an unexperienced eye like mine, there seemed no possibility of proceeding, as there were no signs or indications of the way we should go: nothing but enormous masses of rock presented themselves, and I thought we must come to a dead stop, when, to my astonishment, without the smallest hesitation, they continued with no diminution of rapidity. Before reaching the lake, passed a large flattish basin, through which, in several streams, the water from the lake meanders quietly towards that part whence it hastens wonderfully its pace, and tumbles down in many cascades, and helps to form the various ones we passed in ascending. This

plain has a peculiarly wild and desolate appearance; few trees (those few, firs), some fallen, a few standing, bleaching and branchless, and lifeless, and only waiting for the wind to lay them low. A little beyond, we arrived at the Lac de Gaube, over which came a most cooling breeze, fresh from the Vignemale, one of the highest mountains of the Pyrenees, and on the summit of which there is eternal snow. The water of the lake is clear, and of a beautiful green colour: the depth towards the centre is very great: the lake is full of fine trout.

About two years ago, a dreadful accident happened here to a young English lady and gentleman, who had been married but three months, and who were on their travels. He would go upon the lake with his wife alone: when they got to the centre, he stood up, and, in doing so, slipped, and fell into the lake: his wife stretched over the boat in a vain attempt to save him, when the boat upset, and, melancholy to say, both were drowned.

We returned by the same way, but descend

ing is a far more nervous proceeding: the men also find it more difficult; the one behind the chair, who, of course, is obliged to follow instantly the footsteps of the one in front, has not the advantage of seeing and choosing his path, and is entirely dependent on the stepping of his fellow-carrier: it is really wonderful how well they manage: they wear a kind of sandal made of ox-hide, laced on their feet; this is very thick without being stiff, and at the same time preserves their feet, and prevents their slipping. Climbed down to the cascade of Cerizet-the spray sparkled beautifully in the

sun.

September the 4th.-Passed back through Pierrefitte, and then on to Luz. Whilst waiting for horses, I was much amused by a number of pigs enjoying themselves most completely, it being a very hot day, not in the same way exactly that I have seen the swinish multitude enjoy themselves, but in a much more cleanly and genteel manner: a nice little clear fresh rivulet ran along the side of the road; a number of these creatures were standing in it; and the girl who had the care of them, was,

with much assiduity, throwing up and over them, by means of a long wooden shovel, the cool water; and there was a quiet enjoyment so evident in the manner the brutes stood to have it done, that proved it was no uncommon performance. The valley, all the way to Luz, beautiful: it is a miserable-looking little town; but we got apartments in a new house, with a very obliging old woman, who owned it. We hired a cabriolet, and set off for Barège, where we arrived in an hour and a half, ascending nearly the whole way. Shortly after leaving Luz the valley becomes very ugly-bleak, barren rocks, with marks of torrents in every direction the Gave-de-Bastan boiling along its rocky and embarrassed course: this is a melancholylooking valley; and in autumn, winter, and spring, the road, which is now excellent, is totally destroyed by the rocks and stones that are washed down from the mountains; and the same clearing is necessary every season to make it passable.

;

Barège is a wretched place, from its locality, and from the wretched, maimed, and sickly objects that one meets at every corner. There

are seven different kinds of baths; one fountain only for drinking: there are public baths for soldiers, and for the poor: beyond the village there is no carriage-road, only a horsepath over the mountains; and it has the appearance of being indeed the fag-end of the world;—and yet on the other side of the black rocks that form the termination, and hang over the valley, is situated the fertile and beautiful valley of Campan. Returned to Luz: passed on to St.-Sauveur, only a mile and a half beyond: this is a lovely spot, and I think exceeds Cauterets in beauty, being much more wooded. The establishment of baths here is very handsome, and the hôtel and lodginghouses good.

At Luz, the shawls and woollen goods, known to us by the name of Barège goods, are manufactured. Barège is only inhabited during the bathing season; and many of the habitations are temporary, and are conveyed to Luz before the winter sets in.

September the 5th.-Left Luz at six in the morning, for the mountains. Valley very nar