Page images
PDF
EPUB

520 miles, runs north-north-west, and exhibits a much | float over the heaviest surf without danger. Two of these greater portion of low sandy beach than is found farther bladders are fastened together, and a sort of platform made south. A high ground invariably appears at the back of the of cane is fixed on them. These balsas hold from two to low shore, in some places rising with a steep and in others three persons. The balsa of the northern coast of Peru is a with a gentle declivity. In a few places the high ground raft consisting of nine logs of the cabbage-palm secured is six miles from the sea. Where the coast is high the rocks together by lashings, with a platform raised about two feet, are frequently low, but in several places they rise to 100 or on which the goods are placed. They are employed for 300 feet. The projecting headlands are not numerous, and coasting along the shore, and have a lug sail, which is most being short, and at right angles to the coast, they do not used in landing. The wind being along the shore enables afford safe anchorage. Towards the south-eastern extremity them to run through the surf and on the beach with ease are some islands, and between 7° and 10° S. lat. some inlets and safety. At Lambayeque, where the surf is very heavy, which are larger than commonly occur on this part of a kind of balsa is used called caballito: it consists of Peru, and good anchorage is found in them. The most bundles of reeds fastened together and turned up at the southern of these harbours is the Bay of Pisco, which bow. Being very light, it is thrown on the top of the is between the mainland and a row of islands extend- surf upon the beach, and the fishermen who use them jump ing along the coast. The most southern of these islands, off and carry them on their shoulders to their huts. It that of Gallan, is 2 miles long, 1 mile wide, and of con- seems that each bay or road has its peculiar balsa. siderable elevation. North of it are the Ballista Islands, Surface, Soil, Climate, and Agricultural Productions.— As Peru comprehends the whole of the mountain-masses of the Andes which lie between 15° and 5° S. lat., together with the countries on both declivities of the chain, it is naturally divided into three different regions. The country between the chain and the Pacific is called Los Valles, and that included between the higher ranges of the Andes, Montaña. The region on the eastern declivity of the Andes and the plains contiguous to it are not designated by a peculiar denomination; they may be conveniently called the Eastern Region.

and north of them the Clinca Islands, both clusters of low rocks. The sea about these islands is deep, and the Bay of Pisco may be entered safely by all the passages thus formed. The most southern passage, which is between the island of Gallan and Point Paracca, is generally used; it is called the Boqueron of Pisco. Within the bay there is good anchorage in 12 fathoms. This bay is much visited by vessels, as the surrounding country is rather fertile, and the commerce of the town of Pisco is considerable.

Opposite the town of Cerro Azul there is only an open roadstead, with bad anchorage, and a heavy surf constantly I. The country between the steep ascent of the Andes breaking on the shore. The bay of Callao is between the and the Pacific varies in width from 15 to 50 miles, and may coast and the island of S. Lorenzo, which is four miles and be considered as the western base of the mountains. It has a half long from south-east to north-west, and a mile wide: a great elevation above the level of the sea, where it lies its highest part is 1050 feet above the sea-level. The bay, contiguous to the range, on an average between 8000 and which is extensive and commodious, has good anchorage; 10,000 feet, and from this elevation it slopes towards the sea it is usually entered from the north round Cape Lorenzo, with a very irregular surface. Where it approaches the the northern extremity of the island, but it may also be en- shores it is still in many parts from 1500 to 2000 feet above tered by the Boqueron, a strait between Cape Callao and the sea-level, but in other places it is less than 300 feet. the southern extremity of the island. Salinas Bay, on the This irregularly inclined plain is furrowed by a number of north of Salinas Head, which extends five miles into the depressions running from the Andes to the sea with a rapid sea from south to north, is of large dimensions, and affords slope. As the adjacent high lands frequently rise 1000 feet good anchorage, but it is seldom visited. The bay of Sapé, above them, these depressions are appropriately called Los to the north of Cape Thomas, is small, but as it is contigu- Valles, or the Vales. They are traversed by rivers, many ous to a fertile district, it is much visited by coasters. The of which are dry during nine months in the year, and only a port of Guarmey, north of Point Legarto, is also small, but few preserve a running stream all the year round. As it it contains good anchorage in three and a half to ten never rains in the lower portion of this region, vegetation fathoms, on a fine sandy bottom. Firewood is abundant in and agriculture do not extend beyond the reach of irrigation. the neighbourhood, and is exported. Between 9° and 10° The narrow strips along the rivers are cultivated in proporS. lat. there are four comparatively good harbours, Casma, tion to the supply of water. Though the upper course of Samanco, or Huambacho, Ferrol, and Santa. That of the rivers is extremely rapid, few of them enter the sea, but Samanco is the largest port north of Callao, being six miles are either lost in shallow lagoons or filter through the sand long from south-east to north-west, and four miles wide. which is invariably found near their mouth. The uplands The entrance is two miles wide. Port Ferrol is nearly equal which separate the valleys from one another are covered in size, and entirely free from the swell of the ocean. Both with a fine loose sand, through which in many parts the harbours are much visited by coasters, as the adjacent rocks protrude, either in the form of isolated mountains, or country is fertile and well cultivated. There is no harbour more frequently in ridges several miles long. These uplands farther north. Opposite the towns of Truxillo and Lam- are complete deserts; neither beasts, birds, nor reptiles are bayeque there are only open roadsteads with bad anchorage. ever seen on tn, and they do not produce a single blade North of the roadstead of Lambayeque, and between it of vegetation. No stranger can travel from one vale to anand the Bay of Guayaquil, a huge promontory runs out into other without a guide, the sand being so loose that it is At its base, between Lambayeque and Point raised into clouds by the wind, and thus all traces of a path Malpelo (3° 30′ S. lat.) it is 220 miles wide, and its coast- are obliterated. On account of the great heat which is exline exceeds 300 miles. Between Point Aguja and Cape perienced in these uplands in the day-time, and the clouds Blanco, the most projecting part of this promontory, the of sand which the wind then raises, they are usually trashores are rocky and steep, and rise to a considerable ele-versed by night, and the guides regulate their course by the vation; but near the roadstead of Lambayeque and on the stars, or the light breeze which always. blows from the Gulf of Guayaquil the shores are sandy and partially covered south. The vales are most numerous in that part where with brushwood. In this part there are two indentations, the coast runs from south-south-east to north-north-west, which form two tolerably deep but open bays. The southern between Lambayeque on the north and Cape Carreta on is the Bay of Sechura, which is six miles deep, and at its the south. In this part they are on an average 10 or 12 entrance, between Cape Pisura and the Little Lobos Island miles distant from one another, and have a better supply of of Payta, 12 miles wide. It is open to the swell of the sea, water than in the other parts of Peru. Where the coast and is only navigated by the Indians in balsas. The Bay of runs from north-west to south-east, between Cape Carreta Payta, which is farther north, is of smaller dimensions, but and Arica, they are less extensive, and from 15 to 20 miles it is the best harbour on the coast of Peru, and is more distant from each other. Farther south they are very narrow, visited by foreign vessels than any other harbour except and occur at greater intervals. In the most northern disCallao. trict the vales are more extensive, and contain considerable portions of cultivated ground, but they are at great distances from one another. Between Lambayeque and Sechura the desert is 90 miles across.

the sea.

As the heavy surf occasioned by the swell of the Pacific renders landing with boats always dangerous, and often impracticable, balsas are used along this coast. These balsas differ in materials and form on the different parts of the coast. In Chile and the southern coast of Peru the balsa is a kind of sea-balloon, consisting of seal-skins made airtight, and inflated like a bladder: they are so light that they

It is well known that the vicinity of the sea very materially influences the climate of countries, but the Pacific affects the climate of this region in a very extraordinary way, of which no satisfactory explanation has been offered.

Along the whole coast of Peru, south of Cape Blanco, a shower is never experienced, a drop of rain never falls. But for nearly five months, from June to November, the sky is covered with a kind of fog, which is called the garua. In the morning it is so thick and close to the ground that objects at a moderate distance cannot be seen. About ten or eleven o'clock the fog rises into the atmosphere, but does not break into clouds. This fog covers the sun so effectually as to intercept the rays, and the disk is hardly visible. During this period the earth is constantly covered with dew caused by the condensation of the fog. This dew is not heavy enough to penetrate the thinnest clothing, though it changes dust into mud, and fertilises the ground. While the garua covers the lower parts of the country, and constitutes their winter, the higher declivities of the Andes enjoy fine weather and have their summer. But in the month of January the rains on the mountains commence, and they last about three months. The rains occur how ever earlier in the year in the northern than in the southern districts: and hence it happens that the rivers in the northern part of Peru are full at the end of January or the beginning of February, while in the southern parts this does not take place before the end of March.

The climate of Peru is not so hot as might be supposed. In summer the weather is delightfully fine, and the heat is moderated by the sea and land breezes. The sea-breeze generally commences about ten o'clock; it is then light and variable, but gradually increases till one or two o'clock in the afternoon. A steady breeze prevails until sun-set, when it begins to die away; and soon after the sun is down there is a calm. About eight or nine o'clock in the evening light winds come off the land, and continue until sun-rise, when it again becomes calm, until the sea-breeze sets in. It is also supposed that the cold current which runs along this coast from south to north, and the temperature of which is on an average 8° lower than the mean annual temperature of the adjacent coast, may contribute to moderate the summer-heat. During the winter however, that is, during the fogs, the air is raw and damp, and woollen clothing is then necessary for the preservation of health. The mean annual temperature, according to Humboldt, is 72°, the maximum 82°, and the minimum 55°. In the day-time it varies between 72° and 77°, and in the night between 60° and 63°.

The prevailing winds along the coast blow from the south, varying between south-south-east and south-west. They are seldom stronger than a fresh breeze, especially along the coast south of Cape Carreta, where calms sometimes set in and last three or four days. Farther north they are stronger and blow with greater regularity; and near Cape Blanco they sometimes blow with great force. In winter light northerly winds are occasionally experienced. At some distance from the shores the prevailing winds blow from south and south- | east, and with greater strength in winter than in summer: no thunder-storms occur; lightning indeed is seen from a distance, but thunder is never heard. Earthquakes are frequent, and sometimes destroy the towns and villages.

We do not know at what elevation above the sea-level the rains begin on the western declivity of the Peruvian Andes, but as travellers observe that cultivation and vegetation begin to increase at the height of from 8000 to 9000 feet, it is evident that such tracts must have the advantage of annual rains.

As the mean annual temperature of Peru does not much exceed that of the countries along the southern coast of the Mediterranean, all the grains and fruits of Spain succeed, and many of the intertropical products do not, which however seems attributable rather to the want of a sufficient quantity of moisture than of heat. Indian corn is generally cultivated, and constitutes the principal food of the Indians and lower classes. Rice is extensively grown in some of the wider northern vales, and is exported. Wheat succeeds only in the more elevated part of the valleys, where barley also is grown. Potatoes and sweet potatoes are generally cultivated, also mandioc, yams, and bananas to a smaller extent. The sugar-cane plantations are numerous and extensive, and sugar is exported to all the American countries bordering on the Pacific. Most of the fruit-trees peculiar to the southern countries of Europe succeed well, but those of England are not common; and walnuts, pears, apples, filberts, and almonds are imported from Chile. Vines grow in every valley, and good wine is made in several places, as at Pisco, Nasca, and Ica. There are olive-trees,

but they do not supply an article of exportation, the consumption of olives in the country being considerable. There are few natural meadows; the want of them is supplied by the cultivation of lucern, which has spread over all the valleys.

The soil of the vales consists of sand mixed with vegetable mould, and does not possess a great degree of fertility. As it is cultivated every year, it requires a great deal of manure. This manure is obtained from the small rocky islands, and also from the rocky cliffs along the coast, which are covered with a layer of the excrements of sea-fowls, several feet thick, which appear at a distance as white as snow. A great number of small coasters are continually employed in conveying this manure, which is called guano, to the neighbouring anchorages, where it is bought by the cultivators of the soil.

II. The Mountain Region, or Montaña, runs parallel to the Pacific, and from 20 to 50 miles from the shores. It comprehends the central portion of the Andes, namely, the northern part of the Bolivian Andes and the whole of the Peruvian Andes. The Bolivian Andes consist of two elevated ranges running nearly parallel to one another from south-south-east to north-north-west, between 20° and 15° S. lat. The eastern chain contains the highest summits of the Andes, the Nevados of Illimani and Sorata, and though the western does not attain an equal elevation, it contains several summits which rise above the snow-line. The valley enclosed between the two ranges, called the Valley of the Desaguadero, is about 13,000 feet above the sea-level. The greatest part of it belongs to Bolivia; only about one fourth of it is within the territories of Peru. This valley is about 60 miles wide where it belongs to Peru; the climate and productions are noticed under BOLIVIA, vol. v., p. 86. Between 14° and 15° S. lat., the two chains of the Bolivian Andes are connected by a transverse ridge, the mountains of Vilcanota, which do not attain the elevation of the eastern Bolivian Andes, but appear not to be inferior in height to the western chain, as several of their summits are always covered with snow. The limit of perpetual congelation on this chain, according to Pentland, occurs at 15,800 feet above the sea-level. The mountains of Vilcanota may be considered as forming the boundary-line between the Bolivian and Peruvian Andes.

The Peruvian Andes consist of two chains, which run in the same direction as the Bolivian Andes, from south-southeast to north-north-west, and may be considered as their continuation. The western range runs parallel to the Pacific, nearly north-west between 15° and 13° S. lat., and north-north-west between 13° and 5° S. lat. It is a continuous chain, without any break, and generally rises to 14,000 or 15,000 feet above the sea-level; only a few of its summits rise above the snow-line, and these elevated points are most numerous at the southern extremity, where the chain is connected with the mountains of Vilcanota. The Nevado de Chuquibamba attains nearly 22,000 feet of elevation, and exceeds in height the famous Chimborazo. South of it, and completely isolated, is the volcano of Arequipa, the summit of which is 17,200 feet above the sea, but it is not always covered with snow. Farther north-east are the elevated summits called Cerro de Huando and Cerro de Parinacocha. South-east of Lima is the Toldo de Nieve; between 11° and 11° 30'S. lat. is the elevated summit called La Viuda, which rises to 15,968 feet; and north of it occur four other snow-capped summits, the Altun Chagua, which rises several thousand feet above the snow-line, and the Nevados of Pelagotas, of Moyapota, and of Huaylillas. The last-mentioned summit is situated in 7° 50′ S. lat., and north of it there are no snow-capped mountains until we come to Chimborazo (2° S. lat.). The mountain-mass north of the Nevado of Huaylillas seems to descend to an average height o 9000 or 10,000 feet.

The eastern chain of the Peruvian Andes, which is the continuation of the eastern Bolivian Andes, runs in its southern part, and as far north as 12° 30′ S. lat., parallel to the western Andes, at the distance of about 100 miles. It is composed of an almost uninterrupted series of snowy peaks, which terminate with the Nevado of Salcantahi (13° 10' S. lat.). Farther north it sinks much lower, and north of 12° 30′ S. lat. the chain is interrupted by two large rivers, the Rio Yucay and the Rio Apurimac. On the northern banks of the Rio Apurimac the Andes again rise to a great elevation, though, so far as is known, in no place do they ascend above the snow-line. They gradually approach near

the western Andes, and may be considered as united to them by the elevated table-land of Pasco, which is situated between 11° 10' and 10° 30' S. lat. At the northern side of this table-land both chains again divide, and run parallel to each other to 7° S. lat., where the eastern chain inclines to the east of north, and continues in that direction to the banks of the Amazonas, at the famous Pongo de Manseriche. Where both ranges run parallel, they are hardly more than 50 miles distant from each other, but near 5° S. lat. they are 120 miles apart. In the northern portion of the eastern chain there are a few snowy peaks, as the Paramo de Caracalla (near 7° S. lat.) and the Paramo de Piscoyana (south of 5° S. lat.).

The country included by these two ranges contains four regions, which differ materially in climate and productions. They may be called the table-land of Cuzco, the valley of the Rio Jauja, the table-land of Pasco, and the valley of the Marañon.

14,000 feet above the sea-level. As the snow-line in this part of the Andes seems to occur about 15,500 feet above the sea, the surface of the table-land is only 1500 feet below it, which renders the climate so cold that it would have remained uninhabited but for the rich mines of Pasco, which have attracted a numerous population. The mean annual temperature probably does not exceed 40°, which is equal to that of Trondhiem in Norway, but the climate is much more disagreeable, as nearly all the year round it resembles that of the month of April at Trondhiem. Even in the midst of summer, from May to November, the nights are cold, and at sun-rise all the country is covered with hoarfrost, at which time the thermometer indicates 32°. At nine o'clock it rises 4° or 5°, and in a short time a considerable degree of heat is experienced. But the sky, which is serene in the night-time, is soon covered with fogs accompanied with a strong wind. This is followed by a fall of snow mixed with hail. This state of the The table-land of Cuzco extends from the mountains of weather sometimes continues for several hours; but at other Vilcanota, its southern boundary, to about 12° 30′ S. lat., or times some fine intervals occur. In the afternoon, storms more than 150 miles from south to north, and about 100 are frequently experienced, accompanied by frightful thunmiles from east to west. Its surface is very uneven, being der and hail, which sometimes cause great loss of property traversed by several ridges of broad-backed hills rising with and life. In April, two or three weeks generally pass witha tolerably steep ascent, and running from the south, where out storms and night-frosts. In the winter, from November they are connected with the mountains of Vilcanota, towards to March, the weather is much worse, as the snow-storms the north-north-west, parallel to the great chains of the Andes, then last for weeks together. Even when the sky is which enclose this region. The valleys between these ridges serene and of a dark-blue colour, the sun looks as if it are usually several miles wide, but their surface is diversified were eclipsed. The table-land is a plain divided into by low eminences. The whole region declines towards the a considerable number of smaller plains by ridges of north. The town of Cuzco (13° 31′ S. lat.) is 11,380 feet low hills rising a few hundred feet above their base. above the sea-level. We may reasonably infer that the The surface of the level parts consists partly of bare districts south and west of that place are more elevated. rocks or sand. The sand is partly covered with peat, or by But the rapid course of the numerous rivers which descend swamps, intersected with grassy tracts, which serve as northward, shows that this plain lowers rapidly towards the pasture-ground for the llamas, which are kept in considernorth; and on the banks of the Rio Mantaro it probably does able numbers for the purpose of carrying the ore from the not exceed 8000 feet above the sea. This is also confirmed mines to the smelting-places. A great number of lakes are by the agricultural products. In the most elevated districts dispersed over the plain. They are very deep, and are the south and west of Cuzco the only cultivated grain is the sources of some of the largest tributaries of the Amazonas. quinoa (chenopodium quinoa), which is also the case in the In the northern part of the plain is the lake of Llauricocha, valley of the Desaguadero. [BOLIVIA, vol. v., p. 87.] In the the source of the Marañon, which is considered as the parallel of Cuzco the climate is favourable to the growth of principal branch of the Amazonas. In the southern district wheat, Indian corn, and the fruits of Europe, but the last is the lake of Chinchaycocha, of large dimensions, from require a good deal of care, and the fruits usually met with which a river issues which is the principal branch of the between the tropics do not succeed. In the lower parts of Jauja, and consequently one of the greatest affluents of the the valleys north of 13° S. lat. the agricultural products Rio Ucayale. Near the eastern edge of the table-land is consist of Indian corn, sweet potatoes, yucas, and plantains. the lake of Quiluacocha, whence the Rio Huallaga, an affluent The sugar-cane succeeds very well, and is cultivated in some of the Amazonas, issues. Nothing is cultivated on this parts, but not extensively. The mountains which enclose table-land, not even the quinoa. these valleys are covered with thick forests, but trees are scarce in the more elevated districts, and in some of them are entirely wanting. We are not acquainted with the climate of this region, except that there is a good deal of rain all the year round. In the valley of Paucartambo rain falls 300 days in the year.

The Vale of the Rio Jauja extends from the table-land of Pasco on the north, about 100 miles southwards, between both ranges of the Andes, and in the widest part may be about thirty miles across. Its descent from the table-land is very rapid. At its southern extremity, near 12° 30', it is probably less than 8000 feet above the sea-level. Though this valley is the most populous district of Peru, and contains several comparatively large towns, our information respecting its climate and productions is very scanty, none of the modern travellers who have visited Peru having directed their steps to this region. We only know that the northern districts produce abundance of wheat, Indian corn, and the fruits of Europe, and that in the southern, yucas, plantains, and mandiocca are cultivated, and that the sugarcane and tobacco are grown to a considerable extent.

The table-land of Pasco has lately been more visited by travellers than any other part of the interior of Peru, the Andes here being crossed by one ascent and one descent. The ascent from the Pacific is near the high summit called La Viuda, about 11° 10' S. lat. and 76° 30′ W. long, and the descent is north of the Cerro Pasco, near 10° 30' S. lat. and 75° 40′ W. long. The width of the table-land from south-west to north-east is about 60 miles, and in these parts it is enclosed by ranges which rise from 500 to 1000 feet above it. Its length cannot be determined, as the mountain-masses are broken, towards the north-west and south-east, by numerous rivercourses, and do not constitute a determinate boundary, but sink imperceptibly lower. It is the highest of the tablelands enclosed within the Andes, the level parts being

The Vale of the Rio Marañon extends from 10° to 5° S. lat. The southern part is very narrow, the river running in a valley so contracted, that it is merely a wide ravine. This ravine continues to about 8° S. lat., where it gradually enlarges to a valley several miles wide, and more than 200 miles long. The southern part of this valley is probably not much more than 3000 feet above the sea-level, and it lowers very gradually; at its northern extremity, at the Ponga of Rentema, it is only 1250 feet above the sea. The lower part of the valley, north of 7° S. lat., is many miles wide, but not a level, as several offsets from both chains of the Andes advance some miles into it, and in several places within a short distance of the river. This valley is by far the hottest portion of the mountain region, and the vegetation in the lower parts does not differ from that of other tropical countries. Wheat is only grown on the declivities of some adjacent mountains. Indian corn, mandioca, plantains, and yucas are most extensively grown for the consumption of the inhabitants, and the sugar-cane and tobacco for exportation. We know nothing of the climate of this valley except that the heat is very great and that it has the advantage of rains. Though hardly less populous than the vale of the Jauja, it has been little visited by modern travellers.

On the west side of the Peruvian Andes, the region of the tropical productions does not ascend more than 2000 feet above the sea, but in the valleys of the mountain region it rises to between 4000 and 5000 feet, probably owing to the abundant rains which fall on the latter. The cultivated grains of this region are rice and Indian corn, and the other products are plantains, bananas, mandioca, yams, camotes, and the sugar-cane. The principal fruits are grapes, anonas, pine-apples, papaws (carica), and cherimoyers. Above this region is that of the European cerealia, which towards the Pacific reaches to 10,000 feet, and in the valleys to 12,000

feet and upwards. The grains cultivated in this region are wheat, barley, and Indian corn; potatoes and different kinds of pulse are also cultivated. The fruit-trees are those of Europe, among which the peach succeeds best. Above this region only quinoa and barley are cultivated; the latter for fodder. Potatoes succeed at a height exceeding 13,000 feet. There are no forest-trees on the western declivity of the Andes below 8000 or 9000 feet, but in the interior of the mountain region they increase in size and number in proportion as the country declines in height, and the lowest districts are covered with nearly impenetrable forests of lofty trees.

Several roads lead from the coast of the Pacific to the interior of the mountain region. Six of these roads occur south of 15° 20' S. lat. These roads lead from Arica, Arequipa, &c., to the valley of the Desaguadero, and are named from the mountain-passes through which they lead. The most southern is the Pass of Las Gualillas (17° 50′ S. lat.), which is 14,830 feet high, and a little farther north (17° 43′) is another pass of the same name, the highest part of which is 14,200 feet. The Pass of Chullunquani (17° 18′ S. lat.) is 15,600 feet high. The lowest and most frequented pass in these parts is that of the Altos de los Huessos; it runs at the foot of the volcano of Arequipa, and where it passes the Andes (16° 21' S. lat.) it is only 13,573 feet high. The Pass of the Altos de Toledo (16° 2) rises to 15,528 feet, and the Pass of Lagunillas (15° 22′ S. lat.) to 15,613 feet. The last-mentioned pass, which is the most elevated, is situated where the mountains of Vilcanota join the Western Andes. A mountain-pass leads over the mountains of Vilcanota from Santa Rosa, in the valley of the Desaguadero, to Cuzco. We are imperfectly acquainted with the roads which traverse the Andes north of 15° 30'. A pass leads from Lima to the town of Huancabelica, the highest point of which is 15,080 feet above the sea-level. Farther north is the pass called Portachuela de Tacto, through which the road from Lima to Tarma passes; it is 15,760 feet high. The road which leads from the coast to the table-land of Pasco traverses the Pass of the Alto de Jacaibamba, which is 15,135 feet high, and also that of the Alto de Lachagual, which rises to 15,480 feet. The pass by which travellers descend from the tableland of Pasco to the valley of the Rio Huallaga does not | exceed 14,000 feet, and runs in a ravine of the table-land. A road leads from the town of Truxillo to Caxamarca, in the vale of the Marañon, which in the Pass of Micuipampa is 11,604 feet above the sea-level. From Caxamarca a road leads northward to Chachapoyas, and from the lastmentioned place, over the Eastern Andes, to Moyabamba and Tarapoto. The most northern mountain-pass in Peru occurs near 5° S. lat., and leads over the Paramo of Guamani, where it attains the elevation of 10,950 feet above the sealevel.

III. The Eastern Region comprehends the eastern declivity of the Andes and the adjacent plains, as far as they belong to Peru. It is the least known portion of that country, and our information about it is extremely scanty, except as to the vale of the Rio Huallaga. This extensive valley lies east of the vale of the Marañon, being separated from it by the Eastern Andes. It extends from 10° 30′ to 7° 30′ S. lat., about 350 miles in length. The most southern part, as far north as 9° 30′ S. lat., is narrow. In this part the descent is rapid. Huanuco is about 9000 feet above the sea-level, but at 9° 30' S. lat. the valley is probably not more than 4000 feet high. At this place it begins to widen, the Eastern Andes receding to the distance of 15 or 20 miles from the river. This may be the width of the valley to 7° S. lat., where a branch of the mountains comes close up to the river, and as high hills approach also on the east close to its banks, they form, near 6° 30', the Pongo of Huallaga, at which the valley terminates on the north. The country north of the Pongo is quite level, and belongs to the alluvial plain of the Amazonas. The eastern boundary of the vale is formed by a range of hills, which south of 9° 30′ S. lat. probably do not fall short of 10,000 feet above the sea-level, and between 7° and 6° 30′ S. lat. rise to a considerable elevation, but between these two points they are of moderate height. The soil of the wider portion of the vale is chiefly alluvial, and as it combines great fertility with abundance of moisture and a great degree of heat, it is capable of maintaining a numerous population. At present however it is thinly inhabited, though the population of late is said to have increased considerably. There are at least one hundred very rainy days in the year, and these occur particularly

|

[ocr errors]

in October and November. It does not appear that the dry
and rainy seasons are distinguished as in other countries,
showers being frequent all the year round. The heat is
great, and during the rain it is frequently oppressive. The
declivities of the mountains which enclose the vale are
covered with thick forests of tall trees, which is also the
case with the greatest part of the vale itself. Wheat and
barley are grown in the southern and more elevated dis-
tricts, whence they are sent to the table-land of Pasco. In
the lower part, Indian corn, two sorts of plantains, and three
sorts of bananas are cultivated. There are also plantations
of sugar cane, coffee, cacao, and coca. The coca is an herb
much used by the Indian population, who chew it with a
small quantity of lime. Fruit is here produced in greater
perfection than in any other part of Peru.
thirty-two kinds of fruit-trees. Many of these trees hardly
require any care at all. There are eighteen different sorts
of vegetables.

There are

The country to the east of the range of hills which form the eastern boundary of the vale of the Huallaga, and extending from their base to the banks of the Rio Ucayali, is known under the name of Pumpa del Sacramento. The term pampa' is applied in South America to level plains destitute of trees, and hence it was supposed that this part of Peru was of this description. But according to the latest information, this country is covered with woods, though they are not so dense as the forests in the vale of the Rio Huallaga. The surface also is not a level, except along the banks of the Rio Ucayali. At some distance from this river the country is diversified by numerous eminences. This country extends from the banks of the Amazonas to the Rio Pachitea, more than 300 miles from north to south, with a breadth varying between 40 and 100 miles. North of 7° S. lat. it is a dead level, and forms part of the alluvial plain of the Amazonas. As no European settlements have been established in this part of Peru, we are very imperfectly acquainted with its climate and productions. It does not suffer from oppressive heat, as the thermometer ranges only between 75° and 85° when the sun passes over the zenith In fertility and products it does not seem to be inferior to the vale of Huallaga. It is still in possession of the native tribes, of which a small number have embraced Christianity.

The country extending from the eastern banks of the Rio Ucayali to the river Yavari, which separates Peru from Brazil, is entirely unknown, except so far as it has been seen by travellers who have sailed on the Ucayali and Amazonas, where it appears to be flat and covered with woods, exactly resembling the Pampa del Sacramento in its principal features. Some hills of considerable elevation rise on the plain between 74° and 75° W. long.; and north of 7° S. lat. they are called the Sencis Hills. It is not known whether these hills extend in an uninterrupted chain south-east and then southward, until they join the eastern chain of the Andes, near 12° S. lat. ; but this is the direction given to them in our maps.

The Pampa del Sacramento extends southward to the banks of the river Pachitea. The country which extends south of the last-mentioned river, from the eastern chain of the Andes to the Rio Ucayali, is likewise entirely unknown. According to information collected from the native tribes that live in this part, it is chiefly covered with mountains, which attain a great elevation near the Andes, but towards the Ucayali sink into hills. The country along its banks seems to be rather flat; it is also said to be entirely covered with forests, except in the highest summits of the mountains.

Rivers. The rivers which descend from the western declivity of the Western Andes and fall into the Pacific have a short course, and flow with great rapidity. They are also shallow, and have very little water during the greater part of the year; many of them are quite dry for several months. Accordingly they cannot be navigated even by the smallest canoes, but the water is used to irrigate the adjacent flat tracts.

All the large rivers of Peru originate within the mountainregion, and all the waters which collect in it are united in three large rivers, the Marañon, the Huallaga, and the Ucayali. These three rivers may be considered as the principal branches of the Rio Amazonas. The Marañon, which is commonly considered as the principal branch of the Amazonas, issues from the lake of Llauricocha on the table-land of Pasco, and runs north-north-west about 150 miles in a narrow valley, and with great rapidity. In this distance it descends not less than 10,000 feet. It then flows

in a wide valley for more than 250 miles to the Pongo of Rentema, and in this valley its course is rather gentle, as it descends only from about 3000 to 1232 feet. It is navigated by balsas and canoes. Near Tomependa is the Pongo of Rentema, a rapid. From this place the river turns to the north-east, and after flowing about 70 miles in that direction, it turns to the east; after a course of 70 miles more it descends into the plains by the Pongo de Manseriche, a rapid about seven miles in length. Between the Pongos of Rentema and Manseriche the river runs between lofty rocks, which sometimes rise to the height of 1000 feet, and never sink below 40 feet. It is full of eddies and rapids, and can only be navigated by balsas. At the foot of the Pongo de Manseriche is the town of Borja (in Ecuador), from which place the river is navigable for vessels drawing not more than seven feet. After its union with the Huallaga and Ucayali its depth is so much increased that it is navigable for the largest vessels.

The Huallaga, which joins the Marañon near 5° S. lat. and 76° W. long., rises in the lake of Quiluacocha, which is also on the table-land of Pasco, south-east of the lake of Llauricocha. It runs more than 500 miles. The southern half of its course is north-north-west, and the northern half north-north-east. The upper part of its course is full of rapids, which however may be descended, though not ascended. These rapids cease at Juan del Rio, south of 9° S. lat.; and the river, though rapid, affords an easy navigation as far north as 8° S. lat., where several rapids again occur. There are no rapids between 7° 30' and 6° 40' S. lat. Farther north occur the last rapids, which render the river nearly unnavigable for about 30 miles. North of 6° 20′ S. lat. the Huallaga flows through a level marshy plain to its junction with the Marañon, and is navigable for vessels of considerable size.

The Ucayali brings to the Amazonas the drainage of the mountain-region situated between 11° and 15° S. lat. This large river is formed by the junction of the rivers Urubamba and Tambo, which takes place near 9° S. lat. The Urubamba is formed by the union of the rivers Paucartamba and Quilabamba, which drain the eastern portion of the table-land of Cuzco, and running north, meet near 11° 30' S. lat. These rivers are too rapid to be navigable, but the Urubamba is stated to be navigated by the natives. The Rio Tambo is formed by the confluence of the rivers Apurimac and Mantaro. The Apurimac, which drains the western portion of the table-land of Cuzco, unites with the Mantaro, which drains the valley of the Jauja, and in its upper part is called Rio Jauja. [APURIMAC.] These rivers do not appear to be navigable. The Tambo, which is formed by their union, is probably navigable, but it flows through a country in which no European settlements have been formed. Not far below the place where the Urubamba and Tambo by their union have formed the Ucayali, is a great rapid or cataract called Vuelta del Diablo. From this place downward the river runs above 500 miles, first north-north-west, and afterwards north-north-east, and no impediment to navigation occurs in this part of its course. It is navigable for large vessels. Among its chief tributaries is the Rio Pachitea. This river originates on the eastern declivity of the mountains which enclose the upper vale of the Huallaga on the east near 10° S. lat., and runs first east and then north, falling into the Ucayali near 8° 30'. As nearly the whole course is free from impediments to navigation, it has been supposed that it might be used as a channel for the exportation of the produce of the eastern districts of Peru, in preference to the Huallaga, the course of which is interrupted by many rapids and cataracts; but as the banks of the Pachitea are inhabited by native tribes who are in a state of continual enmity with the whites, it has been found impossible to establish a regular navigation Productions.-The trees and plants which are objects of cultivation have been already enumerated. The forests, with which the mountain-region and the eastern country are covered, supply several articles for commerce and for domestic use, such as vanilla, sarsaparilla, copaiva, caoutchouc, and several kinds of resins and gum; also various barks and woods, used as dyes, such as Brazil-wood, logwood, mahogany-bark, and annotto. The indigo-plant grows spontaneously. Jesuits'-bark is met with in several places on the Eastern Andes. There are various kinds of lofty trees, useful as timber or for cabinet-work, as mahogany

on it.

and cedar.

Domestic animals are far from being abundant in Los Valles, on account of the want of pasture. There is a good supply of horses, and still better of mules, which are used for the transport of merchandise. On the elevated table-land of Pasco, and in other mining districts, llamas are kept for that purpose. A llama carries about 130 pounds, or half the load of a mule. Cattle are abundant in the mountainregion, where the declivities supply extensive pasturegrounds; and in some places sheep abound, especially where the situation is too cold for cattle.

Nearly all the wild animals peculiar to South America are found in Peru, as the jaguar, the puma, the spectacled bear, sloths, armadillos, ant-eaters, guanacoes, and vicuñas. Several species of monkeys occur in the eastern region, where they are used for food and dried for preservation. The condor inhabits the most elevated parts of the Andes. Parrots, parroquets, and macaws are numerous in the woods on the mountains. Whales and seals abound along the coast, and this branch of fishery is chiefly carried on by vessels from the United States of North America. Fish are plentiful in the large rivers of the eastern region, where they constitute the principal food of the inhabitants, together with the manatee and turtles. The manatee occurs only in the Ucayali and the lower part of the Huallaga. The oil extracted from the eggs of the turtle is an article of export under the name of manteca. Alligators are numerous in these rivers, and they are often thirty feet long. Peru is noted for its wealth in silver and gold. The number of mines which have been worked is above a thousand; but most of them are exhausted, or at least abandoned. Among those which are still worked, the mines of Pasco are the richest. Formerly the annual produce of these mines amounted to eight millions of dollars, or 1,800,0007.; but at present it probably falls short of half that sum. There are quicksilver-mines near Huancabelica, which were formerly very rich: we do not know in what state they are now. Copper, iron, lead, and brimstone are found in several places. Saltpetre is found in the country adjacent to the Pacific, south of Arequipa, and great quantities of it are exported by English vessels. It is not a nitrate of potash, but of soda. Salt is collected on the coast north of Callao, at Point Salinas, and in Sechura Bay, where there are salinas, or salt-ponds. Nearly all the mines of the precious metals are on the most elevated parts of the Andes above the line to which cultivation extends, a circumstance which renders the working of these mines very difficult and expensive.

Inhabitants.-No census having been taken, the popula tion is vaguely estimated at 1,800,000, composed of creoles, or descendants of Europeans, Peruvian Indians, and a mixed race. The greater part of the eastern region is in possession of independent tribes, and only those natives who inhabit the vale of the Huallaga have been converted and subjected to the government of the whites. The number of creoles is stated to amount to about 250,000, and that of the Peruvian Indians to near 1,000,000; the remainder are a mixed race, the offspring of Europeans and Indian women.

The Peruvian Indians inhabit the Valles and the Montaña, to the exclusion of all other native tribes. They speak the Quichua language, which is generally called the language of the Incas, and which is used by all the natives of South America, from Quito near the equator, to Tucuman in La Plata, 27° S. lat. The Peruvian Indians had attained a considerable degree of civilization at the time of the arrival of the Spaniards, a fact which is proved by the numerous ruins of extensive buildings, the remains of the great artificial road which leads through the Montaña from Quito to Cuzco, and thence southward over the valley of the Desaguadero; and more particularly by the fact that they irrigated the low tracts in the vales by making cuts to convey the water from the small rivers over the fields, and by the judicious manner in which the water was distributed. It may be said that their condition has been improved by the conquest, inasmuch as they acquired iron implements and domestic animals to assist them in their agricultural labour; but they have not been benefited in any other respect. These Indians apply themselves particularly to agriculture, and there are numerous villages, and even small towns, the whole population of which now consists of Peruvians. They also work in the mines, and manufacture different kinds of woollen and cotton cloth. These kinds of manufactures existed before the arrival of the Spaniards, and

« PreviousContinue »