CONVENT OF SAN MARTINO.

405

wigs and lace ruffles. Sir Richard Hill, however, found one palace elegantly fitted up and very comfortable.

The travellers, as is mentioned in Sir Richard Hill's letter, visited the convent of San Martino, about seven miles from Palermo. None but sons of nobles were members of that fraternity, where they were sent for education; and at the expiration of seven years, they were obliged to turn either monks or knights of Malta, who equally with those who lead the monastic life, made a vow of chastity. They found the convent very magnificent. Its situation was high, facing the North, and behind it a lofty mountain. The entrance was through a hall supported by marble pillars, whence a splendid double staircase of Sicilian marble conducted to the apartments of the superior, the walls of which were painted in fresco. Galleries as long as the sides of the Bodleian at Oxford, led to the different chambers; and at the end of one of them was a fountain of great beauty half enclosed with laurels. The library, supported by Corinthian pillars made of walnut-trees finely polished, had a striking effect, and contained numerous books. There was also a museum with many curiosities, the principal of which was a manuscript in the Morocco language, stating that the Saracens when they entered the island, took possession of the convent, and killed thirty of the monks. When the Hills visited the place the fraternity consisted of only ten members, who were divided into two parties, regarding each other with abhorrence. They were invited to a dinner' of great

1 As the reader may be curious to know the bill of fare of the Convent of St. Martin in the last century, I give the outline of the dinner. First Course. - A tureen at top and bottom, containing in one, gravy soup, in the other, macaroni and cheese. On one side was bouilli, on the opposite, woodcock pie. At the four corners

406

DINNER. MESSINA. EARTHQUAKES.

luxury; and so plentifully was the wine served by the butler, that if a sip was only taken out of a glass, it was instantly refilled. Four monks and one stranger, an ecclesiastic of high rank, were all that attended at the table to receive the English guests, and of these only two monks partook of any of the viands; the other two being offended because Prince Caramanico,' who introduced the Hills, had not recommended them to their party. When they had no company, they were all obliged to dine together; but the two sets never noticed each other. Report spoke loudly of their dissolute

conduct.

Sir Richard Hill and his fellow-travellers, nothing daunted by the rumours of banditti, which frightened home a young German student they invited to go with them, visited most places of interest in the island, and passed through various adventures in perfect safety. At Messina, on arriving at their inn, the master of the house addressed them with a smile of unconcern, and said, Gentlemen, you may repose yourselves without fear, my house being a ground-floor barrack, and built with cane and plaster, will probably stand the shock of an earthquake, if there should be one; but if it is thrown. down, the materials are so light, you will be in no danger of being killed." So little did the people seem to

nuts.

were paties, and different made dishes chiefly in pastry. Second Course.-Red mullets, roast fowls, rissoles, a pudding of pistachio Desert.-Seventeen dishes, among which were two plates with thin slices of raw bacon, one of anchovies, one of cheese, one of fennel and one of celery. Next came ices, and then coffee.Where was the mortification!

1 The Viceroy being a Freemason, had given his letter to the party which contained one of his brother masons. The other contained none of that brotherhood. The Hills were Freemasons.

SYRACUSE. BARON MILOCO. ROBBER.

407

regard these shocks, that when the landlord was asked how long it was since the last, he replied, "Three days ago," when the waiter corrected him with, "No, five, Sir." They kept no account, though their city was a scene of magnificent desolation at that very moment, from the last great overthrow.

On their arrival at Syracuse, the party went to see their inn. Before they had been there five minutes, they were obliged to fly from legions of fleas which they saw crawling up their legs in swarms, but they fortunately met with better lodgings. They received a visit from the Baron Miloco, who conducted them to the singular cavern called the Ear of Dionysius, and to the various antiquities of the town. Their friend the baron informed them he intended to pay a visit to England during the next year, and inquired, "Pray do you travel there on camels, or have you any more convenient mode of conveyance ?" This said baron had been, as may be supposed, a very stay-at-home gentleman; in fact, he never saw the curiosities of Syracuse but once before in his life.1

On the road to Catania, their baggage was attacked by a robber, who was quickly driven away by the guard. They had, however, a more serious alarm, for the beasts that bore the litiga began to trot, which they seldom did, and off went the vehicle from their backs with its inmates into the sea. Providentially, however, there was little depth of water, and below a soft sand, so that they received no injury.

1 Nor was he very hospitable, for though he shewed the Hills the inside of his carriage, he never let them see the inside of his house! Sir Richard Hill, however, said, if he came to England, he would let him know that if the English did not ride upon camels, they knew how to give strangers a welcome to their tables.

408

CARNIVAL.

BANDITTI. SAILOR PRIEST.

Before they left Messina to cross over into Calabria, Mr. Brian Hill wished to view the last flourish of the Carnival. The streets were crowded to see the triumphal car, which was paraded through them drawn by six horses. Within it were masked figures scattering bon bons among the people. One of the servants whose duty it was to clear the way, having struck a man with his sword, a scuffle ensued, during which Mr. Brian Hill was luckily pushed into a druggist's shop, or he might have received much injury from the mob which became outrageous, formed into parties, and fought, half killing the poor man who commenced the fray. He went home heartily tired, like many other people, of the follies of masquerading.

Soon after they began their journey through Calabria, their courier was robbed by banditti, the reports concerning whom they had too much reason to know had not been over-stated to them.

They arrived at Monte Leone during Lent, where they found no difficulty in being allowed to dress gras food at that season, as they feared. But the inhabitants were more scrupulous than at Naples, where dispensations could be purchased by the poor for fivepence each, and the rich for ten shillings, the proceeds of which the king coolly put in his own pocket. They lodged in the house of an ecclesiastic, who was a sailor six days in the week and a priest one. He grumbled sadly at the papal law, which forbade him to take a wife to look after his domestic affairs, and contrasted his misfortune in this respect with the conjugal comforts permitted to the English clergy. Sir Richard Hill said to him, "You are allowed some things interdicted to them; for instance, you may wear ruffles, which they may not." Ah, Sir," replied he with a sigh, "if one of your clergy will give me his wife

STRANGERS. ROME. HOLY WEEK.

409

to take care of my property, he shall be heartily welcome to my ruffles."

On arriving at Palermo, they fell in with two English gentlemen, to whom they were strangers. They inquired if there was any news at Naples, when one of the gentlemen replied, "Yes, great apprehensions are entertained for the safety of Sir Richard Hill and company, who are supposed to have been taken by the Algerines. Perhaps you can inform us if this is true." Sir Richard smiled and replied, "I am happy to be able to give you ocular demonstration to the contrary."

Full of thankfulness to the gracious Providence which brought them safely through their expedition, they arrived at Rome in time to witness a more brilliant holy week than usual, in consequence of a visit from the King and Queen of Naples, and the Mesdames of France. The ceremonies commenced on Palm Sunday, when they proceeded to the Sixtine Chapel. There the Pope was seated under a splendid canopy, dressed in a robe of crimson satin, laced with gold. The Cardinals entered with great pomp, having their trains borne by their attendants. In this manner they approached his Holiness, and knelt down one by one to kiss the sacred toe, while the robes which had previously covered it, were held up by the proper officers for the purpose. The Pope then presented each of them with a branch of palm tree, ornamented fantastically with straw-coloured ribbons. Persons in full dress were all permitted to partake in the ceremony of the kiss, but received from the Pope only a small olive branch each, without any ribbon. When this homage ended, the Pontiff was placed in a gorgeous chair of state, borne by twelve men, who carried him in procession. He held in his hand a large