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FOR JULY, 1809.
FROM THE LONDON REVIEW.
A new System of Domestick Cookery, formed upon Principles of Economy, and
adapted to the use of private Families. By a lady. A new. Edition, corrected. London, printed for John Murray, Fleet Street ; J. Harding, St. James's Street; and A. Constable and Co. Edinburgh. 78. 6d. Reviewed by Mr. J. Smith.
THE three booksellers to whom tle, ought not our anthoress, in poli. the world is indebted for this ingeni. cy, to have entitled her book : “ The ous Treatise on the Art of Eating Belly and the Members,” and dediand Drinking, could not have been cated it to our representatives in parmore happily marshalled by a king liament ? This would have esta. at arms, than they are in the title- blished her fame in a moment, and page of this work. Mr. John Mur- consigned old Menenius Agrippa's ray lives within the city walls, and is, fable of that name to merited oblivi. upon that account, positively the best The great object of the great judge of cookery. Mr. J. Harding, mass of mankind, docti indoctique, is of a more courtly residence, may to eat. From the savage of Terra comparatively possess some know- del Fuego, whose food is worms exledge of the subject; but Messrs. tracted from decayed wood, to the A. Constable and Co. of Edinburgh, peripatetick of Bond Street, who, must be pronounced, by all impartial having performed the duties of the judges, superlatively unfit to give evi- morning, regales on turtle and iced dence in the cause. A work which champagne ; and, while he picks his treats of oyster patties, green peas, teeth, eyes with disdain the ignoble ratafea cream, and London syllabub, herd through the green lattices of must be as much a “sealed book” to Steevens's Hotel, it may be stated, as our Scottish neighbours, as that north- an indisputablé fact, that man is a ern luminary, Allan Ramsay, is to us cooking animal, and increases in cidarkling batives of the south. The vilisation in proportion to the beauty only effect which it can produce in and variety of the produce of his the shop window of the aforesaid A. saucepans. The degeneracy of the Constable and Co. is to quicken their Jew may, upon this principle, be faircountrymen in their journey south-' ly ascribed to the trainoil that meanward (like the hay before the horse's ders through his viands. The' de. nose in Ireland) and thus to over based condition of the negro may come that bashful repugnance to vi- safely be imputed to the yams and siting England which has ever been cassava which he dignifies with the the characteristick of a North Briton. name of dinner; and what political But, as a striking title is half the bat- efforts can this country ever expect
from the Dutch, when we reflect that their illustrious house from oblivion: they jumble bacon and buttermilk in The duke is now cold, but our gravy the same dish, and feed upon cheeses, is hot. Who does not remember which can only be compared to can queen Catharine's character of care non-balls impregnated with salt? Ho- dinal Wolsey ? mer's poetical proser, Old Nestor,
He was a man considered man a cooking animal; of an unbounded stomach, ever ranking so thought the renowned James Himself with princes. Boswell, that twinkling star in the My interpretation of this passage, great belt of the Saturnine Moralist; with all due deference to Mr. Douce, and the observation enabled Mr. is, that he was a man who gave excel. Burke to account for the old proverb lent dinners. Allow me this, and the
-There's reason in roasting of eggs. inigma of his “ ranking himself with With this great truth in view, how princes” is instantly solved.
We much obliged ought the publick to will not, however, multiply cases to feel to a lady who, instead of inditing prove a self-evident proposition, but sonnets to the moon and feeding the proceed to the work under review i mind of her readers through the me which is introduced by an advertisedium of the Minerva press, has pre- ment, wherein we are informed, that ferred the more laudable pursuit of “ the following directions were incatering for the stomach, and has tended for the conduct of the fami. produced a work, at which the Han- lies of the authoress's own daughters, nah Glasses and the Farleys may and for the arrangement of their tahide their diminished larders. Haif ble.” But the young ladies, I supan author's merit arises from the pose, being unable to decypher their choice of his subject. A new system mamma's cramp manuscript, or, as of religion was out of the question; puddings and pies were the subject of no sober man now thinks of going her pen,“ obliged by hunger and reany where except to the Tabernacle ; quest of friends," she has consented and systems of politicks are as shifting to rollit into the world in the puff-paste as the sands of Scamander under the shape of a thick duodecimo. “How foot of Achilles. An improved trea- rarely," exclaims our authoress, in a tise on musick or dancing, might, pathetick tone,“ do we meet with fine indeed, have made many proselytes melted butter!" This calamity was in this fiddling and jumping age;
not overlooked by our immortal bard, yet, still the deaf and the gouty would whose Moor of Venice bewails his not have become purchasers. But a
want of that article with tears. new System of Cookery, embracing Unused to the melting mood, all the contents of the tablecloth, a Dropt tears as fast as the Arabian trees ovo maque ad mala, is universally and Their medicinal gums. perpetually interesting. When a su. And now, reader, having despatchperannuated general is fighting his ed the advertisement, we enter into battles over again, and in his narra the vestibule of the temple, the pretive cuts off the wing of an army, face, consisting of “ Miscellaneous one is apt to yawn. How different Observations for the use of the Misthe sensation if he is cutting off the tress of a Family.” It is a good old wing of a wild fowl. John duke of custom with the race that write, to Argyll was a great man in his day : consider the topick under their imhe is now hors de combât in West- mediate discussion, as the most imminster Abbey; and I entreat the portant subject of inquiry that can noble family of Campbell to reflect, agitate the feelings of man. Mrs. that the Argyll which saves the gravy Barbauld promotes Richardson, withfrom coagulating, is the golden urn out any remorse, over the head of that shall long preserve the ashes of poor Fielding; and Mr. Hayley
would fain make his molehill Cow- ployed on the piano-forte, emulate in per overtop Mount Milton.
whiteness the keys they ratile, shall author does not appear in earnest, it be degraded to crack the claw of a is all over with him. “ How the lobster, or squeeze reluctant pickles deuce can you expect me to grieve," into a jar? Even in the days of Pope, says Horace, “ if you don't appear to it was one of the many subjects of grieve yourself ?” The authoress of complaint of that irritable bard, that Domestick Cookery was aware of Our wives read Milton, and our daughters this rule, when she introduced her
plays. Miscellaneous Observations with a
And though, in the sixty-four years sentence which the hero of Bolt-court which have elapsed since his death, himself might not have blushed to
our wives may have changed their
course of reading, yet, it may be pen:
“In every rank those deserve the greatest doubted, whether they are a whit praise who best acquit themselves of the more wedded to the kitchen than duties which their station requires. In- heretofore. The German Mrs. Haldeed, this line of conduct is not a matter ler is represented in a mob-cap, of choice but of necessity, if we would with a bunch of keys at her girdle, maintain the dignity of our own charac- the keeper of the paradise of pastry; ters as rational beings.”
When I had proceeded thus far, I but Mrs. Siddons decorates that frais hastily turned the leaves, fearing that lady with long drapery, and a yellow
Fashion, however, I had, by mistake, dipped into the muslin turban. Rambler'; but happening to alight will do much, and as our authoress's upon a green goose pie, and knowing Domestick Cookery is universally that the sage had never discussed read, let us hope that the modes of that topick, I returned to the preface. life will change, and that it will be as Our heroine of jams and jellies thus much the rage to stay at home to proceeds :
save money, as it is now to go abroad “In the variety of female acquirements, to spend it. though domestick occupations stand not Our fair purveyor of patty-pans is so high as they formerly did, yet when gifted with that variety of style which, neglected, they produce much human mi- like her own recipes, is calculated to sery.” [Here sighs a jar.]
“ There was a time when ladies knew nothing beyond Milton's strong pinions now not Heaven
please all palates. their own family concerns.” (Here a goose
can bound, pie talks.] “But in the present day there
Now serpent-like, in prose, he sweeps the are many who know nothing about them.” Ah, madam, this is a sober truth,
She informs us, that “to make though epigrammatically expressed. home the sweet refuge of a husband But, under favour, is it not something fatigued by intercourse with a jarring like the conceited cook, in the frage world, to be his enlightened companiment of the Greek comick poet
on and the chosen friend of his heart, ton, who says to his master : What! I speak as Homer does ;
these, these are women's duties ;" And sure a cook may use like privilege,
and adds, in the same breath, And more than a blind poet.
dles made in cool weather are best.” But mark the surly answer of the
The reader is no sooner apprized that cook's master :
"a pious woman will build up her Not with me :
house before God," than he is told the I'll have no kitchen Homers in my house; price of starch depends upon that So, pray, discharge yourself.
of flour.” Talents here find them. The lady Bountifuls have, I confess, selves placed in the same sentence quitted the stage, and the lady Town- with treacle; custards are coupled leys reign in their stead. Who now with conjugal fidelity, and moral duis so brutal as to expect, that those ties with macaroni." This obliquity delicate fingers which, when em. of pen, “one eye on earth, the other
fixed on heaven," is the only sure “ Gobse.--Cut off the apron in the cirmode of pleasing all readers. It forms
cular line a, b, c, in the figure opposite the genuine hill and dale of style,
the last page, and pour into the body a
glass of Port wine and a large tea-spoonand when bounded by a modern mea
ful of mustard, first mixed at the side. dow of margin, bids fair to circulate board. Turn the neck of the goose tothrough ten editions.
wards you, and cut the whole breast in And now, reader, prepare yourself
long slices from one wing to another ; for a lecture on carving. « Some
but only remove them as you help each people,” says our authoress,“ haggle person, unless the company is so large as
to require the legs likewise.” [And if meat so much as not to be able to
the eaters are
so many, wo betide the help half a dozen persons decently goose ; there will be nothing left of it for from a large tongue or a surloin of the next day.] “This way gives more beef; and the dish goes away with prime bits than by making wings. Take the appearance of having been gnaw- small end of the bone, pressing it to the
off the leg by putting the fork into the ed by dogs.” Most dogs that have
body, and having passed the knife at d, come under my cognizance would turn the leg back, and, if a young bird, it be better pleased to gnaw the meat will easily separate." [Let our army and than the dish ; but putting that aside, navy surgeons take notice that this init must be allowed to be a monstrous
struction not meant for them.] “To thing for the seventh expectant, lo
take off the wing, put your fork into the
small end of the pinion, and press it close be watching for a slice from a sur
to the body; then put in the knife at d loin which is destined to be wasted and divide the joint, taking it down in on six persons! Our lady, however, the direction d, e. Nothing but practice must in this instance be considered, will enable people to hit the joint exactly
at the first trial.* as rather hypercritical, few persons
When the leg and being so uninitiated in the mysteries of other; but it is not often necessary to cut
wing of one side are done, go on to the the blade, as to be unable to carve a
up the whole goose, unless the company be tongue or a surloin : But to be placed very large. There are two sidebones by opposite a pig, a goose, or a hare, the wing, which may be cut off, as likeand to possess no more skill in the
wise the back and lower sidebones : but art than the executioner of the duke
the best pieces are the breast and the of Monmouth, is indeed one of the thighs after being divided from the drum.
sticks.” miseries of human life. I most sin “ Hare.- The best way of cutting it up, cerely wish I could transplant these is to put the point of the knife under the dainties to the pages of this Review; shoulder at a, in the figure opposite the but, since that cannot be, let me at next page, and so cut all the way down least do all I can, by extracting the
to the rump on one side of the backbone,
in the line a, b. Do the same on the other rules for dissecting them.
side, so that the whole hare will be di. Sucking Pig.-The cook usually deco
vided into three parts. Cut the back rates the body before it is sent to table, part into four, which, with the legs, is and garnishes the dish with the jaws and
the part most esteemed. The shoulders ears." [If she do not, she deserves to must be cut off in a circular line, as c, lose her own ears.] “ The first thing is to
d, a; lay the pieces neatly on the dish separate a shoulder from the carcase on
as you cut them, and then help the com. one side, and then the leg according to pany, giving some pudding and gravy to the directions given by the dotted line a,
every person. This way can only be b, c. The ribs are then to be divided into about two helpings, and an ear or a jaw presented with them, and plenty of sauce.
* The clear meaning of this remark is; The joints may either be divided into
that, if you are perfected by practice, you two each, or pieces may be cut from
will hit the joint exactly at the first trial, them. The ribs are reckoned the finest though you never tried before. part, but some people prefer the neck-end +The impartiality of this hospitable lady, between the shoulders.” [Here is a dif in giving pudding to every person, wheference of opinion between all people and ther they like it or like it not, is truly asome people, which is left to the arbitra- miable, and of a piece with that species of tion of other people.]
boarding-school benevolence which pla
practised when the hare is young : if old, priety that certain ladies and gentledon't divide it down, which will require
men would take their degrees in this a strong arm” (a sly hint at the weakness of her readers)" but put the knife be- culinary college ere they pretend to tween the leg and back, and give it a
carve for themselves !
I Can none little turn inwards at the joint, which remember, yes I know all must," you must endeavour to hit and not to some one of his acquaintance whose break by force. When both legs are zeal to do the honours of the table is taken off, there is a fine collop on each
as intense as that of a missionary to side the back” [we all love a slice from visit the coast of Africa, and who is poor puss ;—This is indeed the hare and many friends] “then divide the back about as well skilled in the science he into as many pieces as you please, and professes to teach ? Give such a man take off the shoulders, which are by many the hundred hands of Briareus, and preferred, and are called the sportsman's he would gladly dissect a whole city pieces.t When every one is helped, cut
feast at a single sitting. With a geoff the head” (and take it to yourself] “put your knife between the upper and lower nerosity peculiar to himself, he disjaw, and divide them, which will enable penses the gravy over the faces and you to lay the upper flat on your plate, then waistcoats of his fellow guests, leava put the point of the knife into the centre, ing the poor goose
duck as dry as and cut the head in two. The ears and
a Scotch metaphysical essay. When brains may be helped then to those who
a man of this stamp thrusts his fork like them.”
into the breast of a woodcock, the By the way, the same individual has seldom a penchant for both. Our company present express as much noble patronizers of the Italian opera
alarm as if the bird were alive. Let have nice ears and no brains, and
no such man be trusted.” What a
fine subject for a didactick poem is many a sinister limb of the law has a
carving? plentiful stock of brains and no ears.
What is Mr. Godwin
about? It is well known he adHere is a body of rules, scientifi
dresses his writs to the late sheriff of cally laid down, like the figure of a country dance, by right and left,
London, who, upon such an occasion, leading out sides, and galloping down would doubtless usher the bantling the middle, by a study of which the to light. It is true the worthy knight enlightened reader, when a goose or
eats no meat himself, since he eat up hare is before him,
the heifer ; but is that a reason why
he should be unmindful of those that May CARVE it like a dish fit for the gods, Not hew it like a carcase for the hounds. do?
It is to be feared, however, that But as humanity is the brightest this, to many readers, is all Algebra, jewel in a lady's tiara, it grieves me without the aid of the dotted engrave to be obliged to reprehend, in the ings, which, by the way, are so badly most unqualified terms, the following executed, that it may be safely said, receipt to make hare souppage never were such good dinners served 104 : “ Take an old hare that is good up on such indifferent plates. To for nothing else, cut it into pieces,' those, however, who do not compre
&c. Fie, madam! are these your hend them, the utility of the above fine feelings ? Sterne, who wept extracts is too obvious to render any over a dead jackass, like any sandapology necessary; and would to pro- man, would never have forgiven you.
Mr. Southey, mounted on old Poulces pudding as a grace before meat, and ter's mare, will vilipend you through obliges the young student to wade a whole Thalabia. Is this your resthrough a slough of rice or suet, before he can revel in the joys of beef or mut
pect for age? Suppose some giant
of the Monk Lewis breed, having ! + A hint from Horace-viz.
penchant for human flesh, were to Sapiens sectabitur armos.
seize you in his paws, and utter this By which we learn that sapiens is Latin culinary dictum : “ Take an old tofor a sportsman.