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CHAPTER IV.
THE SECOND CITY IN GREAT BRITAIN.
A Scotch Institution-Snuff Sellers and Smellers-Scotch Breakfasts—
A Glasgow Bailie, and the Way to dress Him-George Square
Public Memorials—History of a German Handkerchief-A For-
gotten Weaver—Shall William Flakefield have a Statue ?- The
Wellington Statue-Poking up the Lions—The Broomielaw-
Glasgow Characteristics—The First and Second Cities in Great
Britain-The Clyde Embankment—The Bridges—The Clyde,
Past and Present . . . . . . . PAGE 29
CHAPTER V.
GLASGOW JOTTINGS.
A City turned to Stone-A Fiery Medusa-Bare Legs and Noiseless
Steps—Bare Heads—The West End—The Park—Kelvin Grove-
Palatial Buildings-Argyll Street-The Trongate-A St. Kilda
Man's Idea of Glasgow-Bonnets-Mr. R. Chambers' Ideas-
Highland Costume-The Glasgow Banker on the German Stage
Glasgow Men—Omnibuses—The Tron Tower— The Legend of the
City Arms—A Good By-word . . . . . . 43
CHAPTER VI.
MORE OF ST. MUNGO'S CITY.
King William's Statue–The Cross—The Saltmarket A Glasgow Slum
-The Wynds and Closes—Saturday Night in the Saltmarket_The
Virginians of Glasgow-Mr. Glassford-Smallfield House–The
Cross Steeple—The Jail—Guesses at Truth - The Green-Glas-
gow's Best Lung-The Pleasure Fair-Tramping Clothes—The
Briggate, and Oliver Cromwell —Turning the Tables—Scruples
satisfied—Silvercraigs—The High Street-A Whiskey Climate-
The Glass of Fashion—Dr. Johnson's Curiosity-Lord Breadal-
bane's Bait
. . . . . . . . . 55
CHAPTER VII.
A SCOTCH UNIVERSITY AND ITS PRECINCTS.
Glasgow University-Exterior and Interior—Cyril Thornton-Charac-
ter of the Students-Advantages as a Place for Instruction A Day
of Episcopal Glasgow—Foundation of the University-Bell o' the
Brae—Bearing up the Bishop's Tail —Wallace—The Malefactors,
Rotten Row--Various Derivations and Conjectures—The Drygate
-Darnley and Mary Queen of Scots .. . . . . 68
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VIII.
A SCOTCH CATHEDRAL.
The Old Barony Church-Improvements since Rob Roy's Day—The
Laigh Kirk—Present State of the Crypt--St. Mungo's Tomb-
Relics and their Worshippers—Credibility and Gullibility-St.
Mungo's History-First Impressions of the Cathedral-Its Service
-Its Restoration and Antecedents—Benefactors to the Work-
Early History and Foundation—The Choir, Pulpit, Bible, and Bell
-Stained Glass—The Munich Windows-Exterior of Cathedral
Destruction of the West Tower—South-west View—The Burial.
ground-old Restrictions on the Women's Worship , PAGE 80
CHAPTER IX.
A SCOTCH NECROPOLIS.
The Bridge of Sighs—The Necropolis-Beauty, and Appropriateness of
its Situation-Duteous care for the Dead-Heathen Tombstones in
Memory of Christians—Abstract Virtues and Pantheon Deities-
Advertisements in Stone_The Living and the Dead-Streets of
Tombs—Mr. Houldsworth's Mausoleum-Principal Monuments-
Panoramic View from the Necropolis-Knox's Monument—Draw-
ing it Mild–The Preaching of Knox-'Let Glasgow Flourish!' 96
CHAPTER X.
DUMBARTON.
Bishopton—View of Dumbarton from across the River—The Mitred
Rock-Its History—Wallace—Mary Queen of Scots—Captain
Crawford's Surprise of the Castle—Magnetic Attraction–Rock
Rabbits and Town Cats—The Royal Scotch Thistle-Paisley
Abbey—Tomb of Marjory Bruce-Queen Bleary-Port Glas-
gow . . . . . . . . . . . 106
CHAPTER XI.
GREENOCK.
Position of Greenock-The Tontine and Porters—Wordsworth's
Opinion of the Town—The Land o' Cakes-James Watt-John
Galt-Jean Adams and her History—John Wilson and the Profane
Art-The West Church-Grave of Burns' Highland Mary'-
The Monument and its History—Incorrect and Scanty Information
concerning Burns and his Highland Mary-Enquiry into the
Story . . . . . . . . . . . 116 CHAPTER XII.
THE TRUE STORY OF BURNS AND HIS HIGHLAND MARY.
Highland Mary's Birth, Parentage, and Early Years—Not a Dairymaid,
as generally supposed—Nursemaid in the Family of Mr. Hamilton,
of Mauchline-Her Intimacy with Burns-His Worldly Position
and Difficulties—His Poems—Their Last Interview—Their Parting
Gift of Bibles—Mary proceeds to Campbelton—Burns' Poems in
Print-Highland Mary comes to Greenock-Her Relations there-
The Brothering Feast—Her Illness and Death -Superstition of her
Friends—The Lair in Greenock Churchyard—What Burns was
doing at this timeHe receives the News of her Death PAGE 125
CHAPTER XIII.
ROMANCE AND REALITY.
The other Side of the Question—The Naked Truth-Ugly Facts versus
Pretty Poetry—The Ayrshire Don Giovanni-An amatory Four-
in-hand-Jean Armour's Twins—Burns ante-dates his Attachment
to Highland Mary–His probable reasons for so doing—His
Biographers gulled thereby—The Flaws of Genius-Splendid Gifts
and Vicious Living-Characters of Highland Mary and Burns 141
CHAPTER XIV.
LOCH LOMOND.
View from Balloch Pier-A Bright Day for Tourists—The Medley of
Sight-seers—The Reading Party and the Photographer-The
Depreciator of Fresh Water-Sea and Lake-Loch Lomond a
Mediterranean Sea-Wordsworth and Christopher North—Inch-
Murrin-Glen Fruin-Rob Roy-Sunday Sport—The Floating
Island—The Three Wonders-Drummond and Ben Jonson-
Burns' Libation . . . . . . . 152
CHAPTER XV.
THE LAKE FULL OF ISLANDS.
A Cluster of Islands—The Yew of Inch-Callioch—Buchanan's Obelisk
-Dog Latin–The Pot of Gartness-Lord Napier and his
Logarithins—Glenfinlass-Ross-dhu–Rob Roy and the Colquhouns
-The Forester and the Fairies—The Deer Island—Whiskey and
Delirium Tremens-Inch-Tavanach—Inch-Cruin-A Critical Con-
trast–Professor Wilson's Panegyrics and Dr. Johnson's Grumble-
Boswell—Johnson and Lord Graham-Smollett and ‘Humphrey
Clinker'-Timber . . . . . . . . 160
CHAPTER XVI.
BEN LOMOND.
Village of Luss-The Birch; Useful and Ornamental—Inyeruglas
Carpe diem–Ben Lomond The Beacon—The Bailie's Specula-
tions, and an Improvement thereupon-Ben Lomond Utilised-
Rob Roy's Rock-Sentiments and Characters-Swells and Lovers
-Clerks and Milliners—Macaulay's Sneer-Goldsmith's Opinion
-Impressions received by Scenery—The Zug Boatman-Sir
Walter Scott The Historian's Raid-Special Pleading out of
place— View from Tarbet-Turner's Picture of Ben Lomond-
Its Characteristics — The Tourist's Programme - Speed and
Weather . . . . . . . . . PAGE 168
CHAPTER XVII.
SCOTCH MUSIC AND SCOTCH SCENERY.
An atra cura—The Piper, the Modern Æolus--Antiquity of the Bag-
pipe-An Honest Confession-Tom, the Piper's Son—A Novel
Mode of Instruction-Real Musicians-A Judge at Fault-The
Scottish fête—Mons. Clairvoyant and the Baggypipe-Nightin-
gales_Scotia's Philomela—Tarbet—The Vanity of Human Wishes
-The Piper again! . . . . . . . . 181
CHAPTER XVIII.
CRAIG ROYSTON.
The Head of Loch Lomond-Ardlui—The Pulpit Rock-Rob Roy's
Cave; Craig Royston-Rob Roy's House-The Outlaw and the
Whigs— The Highland Rogue,' and its Statements—The Parson
a Prisoner-Ellan-Vhou-Robert Bruce—The Last of the Macfar-
lanes-Legend of The Brownie's Cell-The Macfarlanes' Lantern-
James VI. and the Wild Geese . . . . . . 188
CHAPTER XIX.
INVERSNAID.
Inversnaid Pier-Scenic Shrines and their Worshippers—View from
above Inversnaid-The Cobbler-Glensloy-Inversnaid Burn-
Butterfly Tourists—The Coaches in Rob Roy's Country-The Burn
and its Falls-Inversnaid Waterfall_Wordsworth and his · High-
land Girl'-Platonic Raptures—The newly-wedded Husband-
What would Mrs. Wordsworth say?-_Was the Girl a Vision or a
Myth?—Legend of another Highland Girl—The Isle of Fairies-
Farewell to Loch Lomond . . . . . . . 196
CHAPTER XX.
ROB ROY'S COUNTRY.
The Road from Inversnaid–The Fort, and a Sonnet upon it-History
of the Fort-Black Knee-General Wolfe-The Key of the Fort
-A Primitive Barley-wain-Government Roads—Caufield's Epi-
gram-Rob Roy, Laird of Inversnaid–His History–His Last
Duel—A Fat Hero—Exaggerated Description of the Outlaw-
Common Thief and Gentleman Drover—Rob Roy's System and
Lord Clive's—A Mythic Hero and his Relics — Loch Arclet—The
Bailie Nicol Jarvie . . . . . . . PAGE 207
CHAPTER XXI.
LOCH KATRINE AND ELLEN'S ISLE.
Ancient and Modern Caterans—Stronachlachar Hotel–Coalbarn's Pier
-The Kernes and Freebooters-Government Proceedings-Rob
Roy's Castle and Prison-Raid upon Graham of Killearn- The
Influence of Poetry_Publication of The Lady of the Lake'
-Its Effect upon the District described—The Guides and their
Tales—Stale Quotations—What can be Done ?—The Sandwich
Style of Writing-A Surfeit of Scott—Gushing Young Ladies-
Mr. Dundreary and Mr. Testy–Spouting—Ellen's Isle—Its Bower
-An Island Jewel—Traditions . . . . . 217
CHAPTER XXII.
BEN VENUE.
Coir-nan-Uriskin, the Goblin's Cave - Where is the Cave ?_The Guide
and the Cockney-Who were the Urisks ?-Goblins and Robbers—
The Highlander and Bony'-The Pass of Beal-ach-nam-bo-
Views from Ben Venue-Mountaineering—A Centre for a Century
of Sketchers—Picturesqueness of Ben Venue-What is this Ben's
Height ? . . . . . . . . . . 229
CHAPTER XXIII.
WATERWORKS OF NATURE AND ART.
Measurements and Charges—The Boatman's Demand-Length of the
sinuous Loch Katrine-Agreeable Reflections—Walk along the
Northern Shore-The Loch Katrine Waterworks-Rome outdone-
Particulars of the Works–Purity of Loch Katrine Water_The
Opening Day—The Queen's Visit—The Ceremonial-Loch Katrine
made Useful as well as Ornamental—The Watch-Tower of Roderick
Dhu . . . . . . . . . . . 236