About this book
My library
Books on Google Play
CHAPTER IV.
THE SECOND CITY IN GREAT BRITAIN.
A Scotch Institution Snuff Sellers and Smellers-Scotch Breakfasts-
A Glasgow Bailie, and the Way to dress Him-George Square--
Public Memorials-History of a German Handkerchief-A For-
gotten Weaver-Shall William Flakefield have a Statue?-The
Wellington Statue-Poking up the Lions-The Broomielaw-
Glasgow Characteristics-The First and Second Cities in Great
Britain-The Clyde Embankment The Bridges-The Clyde,
Past and Present
PAGE 29
CHAPTER V.
GLASGOW JOTTINGS.
A City turned to Stone-A Fiery Medusa--Bare Legs and Noiseless
Steps-Bare Heads-The West End-The Park-Kelvin Grove—
Palatial Buildings-Argyll Street-The Trongate-A St. Kilda
Man's Idea of Glasgow-Bonnets-Mr. R. Chambers' Ideas-
Highland Costume-The Glasgow Banker on the German Stage-
Glasgow Men-Omnibuses-The Tron Tower-The Legend of the
City Arms-A Good By-word 43
CHAPTER VI.
MORE OF ST. MUNGO'S CITY.
King William's Statue-The Cross-The Saltmarket-A Glasgow Slum
-The Wynds and Closes-Saturday Night in the Saltmarket-The
Virginians of Glasgow-Mr. Glassford-Smallfield House-The
Cross Steeple-The Jail-Guesses at Truth-The Green-Glas-
gow's Best Lung-The Pleasure Fair-Tramping Clothes-The
Briggate, and Oliver Cromwell-Turning the Tables-Scruples
satisfied-Silvercraigs-The High Street-A Whiskey Climate-
The Glass of Fashion-Dr. Johnson's Curiosity-Lord Breadal-
bane's Bait . 55
CHAPTER VII.
A SCOTCH UNIVERSITY AND ITS PRECINCTS.
Glasgow University-Exterior and Interior-Cyril Thornton-Charac-
ter of the Students-Advantages as a Place for Instruction-A Day
of Episcopal Glasgow-Foundation of the University-Bell o' the
Brae-Bearing up the Bishop's Tail-Wallace-The Malefactors-
Rotten Row--Various Derivations and Conjectures-The Drygate
-Darnley and Mary Queen of Scots
68
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER VIII.
A SCOTCH CATHEDRAL.
vii
The Old Barony Church-Improvements since Rob Roy's Day-The
Laigh Kirk-Present State of the Crypt-St. Mungo's Tomb-
Relics and their Worshippers-Credibility and Gullibility-St.
Mungo's History-First Impressions of the Cathedral-Its Service
-Its Restoration and Antecedents-Benefactors to the Work-
Early History and Foundation-The Choir, Pulpit, Bible, and Bell
-Stained Glass-The Munich Windows-Exterior of Cathedral-
Destruction of the West Tower-South-west View-The Burial-
ground-Old Restrictions on the Women's Worship PAGE 80
CHAPTER IX.
A SCOTCH NECROPOLIS.
The Bridge of Sighs-The Necropolis-Beauty, and Appropriateness of
its Situation-Duteous care for the Dead-Heathen Tombstones in
Memory of Christians-Abstract Virtues and Pantheon Deities-
Advertisements in Stone-The Living and the Dead-Streets of
Tombs-Mr. Houldsworth's Mausoleum-Principal Monuments-
Panoramic View from the Necropolis-Knox's Monument-Draw-
ing it Mild—The Preaching of Knox-'Let Glasgow Flourish!' 96
CHAPTER X.
DUMBARTON.
Bishopton-View of Dumbarton from across the River-The Mitred
Rock-Its History-Wallace-Mary Queen of Scots-Captain
Crawford's Surprise of the Castle-Magnetic Attraction-Rock
Rabbits and Town Cats-The Royal Scotch Thistle-Paisley
Abbey-Tomb of Marjory Bruce Queen Bleary-Port Glas-
gow
106
CHAPTER XI.
GREENOCK.
Position of Greenock-The Tontine and Porters-Wordsworth's
Opinion of the Town-The Land o' Cakes-James Watt-John
Galt-Jean Adams and her History-John Wilson and the Profane
Art The West Church-Grave of Burns' 'Highland Mary'-
The Monument and its History—Incorrect and Scanty Information
concerning Burns and his Highland Mary-Enquiry into the
Story
116
CHAPTER XII.
THE TRUE STORY OF BURNS AND HIS HIGHLAND MARY.
Highland Mary's Birth, Parentage, and Early Years-Not a Dairymaid,
as generally supposed-Nursemaid in the Family of Mr. Hamilton,
of Mauchline-Her Intimacy with Burns-His Worldly Position
and Difficulties-His Poems-Their Last Interview-Their Parting
Gift of Bibles-Mary proceeds to Campbelton-Burns' Poems in
Print-Highland Mary comes to Greenock-Her Relations there-
The Brothering Feast-Her Illness and Death-Superstition of her
Friends The Lair in Greenock Churchyard-What Burns was
doing at this time-He receives the News of her Death PAGE 125
CHAPTER XIII.
ROMANCE AND REALITY.
The other Side of the Question-The Naked Truth-Ugly Facts versus
Pretty Poetry-The Ayrshire Don Giovanni-An amatory Four-
in-hand-Jean Armour's Twins-Burns ante-dates his Attachment
to Highland Mary-His probable reasons for so doing-His
Biographers gulled thereby-The Flaws of Genius-Splendid Gifts
and Vicious Living-Characters of Highland Mary and Burns 141
CHAPTER XIV.
LOCH LOMOND.
View from Balloch Pier-A Bright Day for Tourists-The Medley of
Sight-seers-The Reading Party and the Photographer-The
Depreciator of Fresh Water-Sea and Lake-Loch Lomond a
Mediterranean Sea-Wordsworth and Christopher North-Inch-
Murrin-Glen Fruin-Rob Roy-Sunday Sport-The Floating
Island-The Three Wonders-Drummond and Ben Jonson-
Burns' Libation. 152
CHAPTER XV.
THE LAKE FULL OF ISLANDS.
A Cluster of Islands-The Yew of Inch-Callioch-Buchanan's Obelisk
-Dog Latin-The Pot of Gartness-Lord Napier and his
Logarithms Glenfinlass-Ross-dhu-Rob Roy and the Colquhouns
-The Forester and the Fairies-The Deer Island-Whiskey and
Delirium Tremens-Inch-Tavanach-Inch-Cruin-A Critical Con-
trast-Professor Wilson's Panegyrics and Dr. Johnson's Grumble-
Boswell-Johnson and Lord Graham-Smollett and 'Humphrey
Clinker'-Timber
160
Village of Luss-The Birch; Useful and Ornamental-Inveruglas-
Carpe diem-Ben Lomond-The Beacon-The Bailie's Specula-
tions, and an Improvement thereupon-Ben Lomond Utilised-
Rob Roy's Rock-Sentiments and Characters-Swells and Lovers
-Clerks and Milliners-Macaulay's Sneer-Goldsmith's Opinion
-Impressions received by Scenery-The Zug Boatman-Sir
Walter Scott-The Historian's Raid-Special Pleading out of
place-View from Tarbet-Turner's Picture of Ben Lomond-—
Its Characteristics - The Tourist's Programme-Speed and
Weather PAGE 168
CHAPTER XVII.
SCOTCH MUSIC AND SCOTCH SCENERY.
An atra cura-The Piper, the Modern Æolus-Antiquity of the Bag-
pipe-An Honest Confession-Tom, the Piper's Son-A Novel
Mode of Instruction-Real Musicians-A Judge at Fault-The
Scottish fête-Mons. Clairvoyant and the Baggypipe—Nightin-
gales Scotia's Philomela-Tarbet-The Vanity of Human Wishes
-The Piper again!
CHAPTER XVIII.
CRAIG ROYSTON.
181
The Head of Loch Lomond-Ardlui-The Pulpit Rock-Rob Roy's
Cave; Craig Royston-Rob Roy's House-The Outlaw and the
Whigs- The Highland Rogue,' and its Statements-The Parson
a Prisoner-Ellan-Vhou-Robert Bruce-The Last of the Macfar-
lanes-Legend of The Brownie's Cell-The Macfarlanes' Lantern-
James VI. and the Wild Geese
CHAPTER XIX.
INVERSNAID.
188
Inversnaid Pier-Scenic Shrines and their Worshippers-View from
above Inversnaid-The Cobbler-Glensloy-Inversnaid Burn-
Butterfly Tourists-The Coaches in Rob Roy's Country--The Burn
and its Falls-Inversnaid Waterfall-Wordsworth and his 'High-
land Girl'-Platonic Raptures-The newly-wedded Husband-
What would Mrs. Wordsworth say?-Was the Girl a Vision or a
Myth? Legend of another Highland Girl-The Isle of Fairies-
Farewell to Loch Lomond
196
CHAPTER XX.
ROB ROY'S COUNTRY.
The Road from Inversnaid-The Fort, and a Sonnet upon it-History
of the Fort-Black Knee-General Wolfe-The Key of the Fort
-A Primitive Barley-wain-Government Roads-Caufield's Epi-
gram-Rob Roy, Laird of Inversnaid-His History-His Last
Duel-A Fat Hero-Exaggerated Description of the Outlaw-
Common Thief and Gentleman Drover-Rob Roy's System and
Lord Clive's A Mythic Hero and his Relics-Loch Arclet-The
Bailie Nicol Jarvie
PAGE 207
.
CHAPTER XXI.
LOCH KATRINE AND ELLEN'S ISLE.
Ancient and Modern Caterans-Stronachlachar Hotel-Coalbarn's Pier
-The Kernes and Freebooters-Government Proceedings-Rob
Roy's Castle and Prison-Raid upon Graham of Killearn-The
Influence of Poetry-Publication of 'The Lady of the Lake'
-Its Effect upon the District described-The Guides and their
Tales Stale Quotations-What can be Done?-The Sandwich
Style of Writing-A Surfeit of Scott-Gushing Young Ladies-
Mr. Dundreary and Mr. Testy-Spouting-Ellen's Isle-Its Bower
-An Island Jewel-Traditions
CHAPTER XXII.
BEN VENUE.
217
Coir-nan-Uriskin, the Goblin's Cave-Where is the Cave?-The Guide
and the Cockney-Who were the Urisks ?-Goblins and Robbers-
The Highlander and 'Bony'-The Pass of Beal-ach-nam-bo-
Views from Ben Venue-Mountaineering-A Centre for a Century
of Sketchers-Picturesqueness of Ben Venue-What is this Ben's
Height?
229
CHAPTER XXIII.
WATERWORKS OF NATURE AND ART.
Measurements and Charges-The Boatman's Demand-Length of the
sinuous Loch Katrine-Agreeable Reflections-Walk along the
Northern Shore The Loch Katrine Waterworks-Rome outdone-
Particulars of the Works-Purity of Loch Katrine Water-The
Opening Day-The Queen's Visit-The Ceremonial-Loch Katrine
made Useful as well as Ornamental-The Watch-Tower of Roderick
Dhu
236