At Williamsburg I associated myself with a Captain Harwood, who was proceed. ing also to Charleston. We passed the little village of Jamestown, on James River, interesting only from its early associations and venerable ruins; and next reached Cobham and then Suffolk, where we found ourselves in the hands of the civil authorities, on a complaint which had been lodged against us upon a suspicion of our being spies. My exact and curious inquiries had again excited jealousy of our character. We were compelled to go before a magistrate two miles out of town, exhibit our passports, take the oath of abjuration, and pay the fees of office.

Proceeding from Suffolk to Edenton, North Carolina, we passed over a spacious, level road, through a pine forest, which, beginning in this district, extends quite across North Carolina. We traveled near the north border of the great Dismal Swamp, which, at this time, was infested by concealed royalists and runaway negroes, who could not be approached with safety. They often attacked travelers, and had recently murdered a Mr. Williams.

We entered North Carolina late in the day, availing ourselves of that hospitality so characteristic of southern manners, and threw ourselves upon the kindness of Mr. Granby, a wealthy planter and merchant. He informed me that, previous to the Revolution, Washington and two other gentlemen had contemplated opening a canal through the Dismal Swamp, for the purpose of drawing off the water and reclaiming the land for cultivation.

Edenton is situated on the Albemarle Sound. It is defended by two forts, and contained one hundred and thirty-five dwellings and a brick court-house. The town was nearly overrun by the busy sons of commerce, from its being protected against the access of an enemy by the difficult navigation of a shallow water.

We ar

At this place we crossed the sound, twelve miles, and entered a romantic creek, up which we sailed some distance before landing. After landing, we traveled eleven miles to Colonel Blount's where we arrived late at night, in Egyptian darkness. From Colonel Blount's we proceeded to Bath, on Pamlico Sound. rived late in the day in Bath, after traveling over a most sterile and desolate sandy plain. The dreariness was scarcely relieved by the appearance of a house, except a few miserable tar-burner's huts. We crossed Pamlico Sound in an open ferry-boat, a distance of five miles. After landing, we traveled the whole day amid a gloomy region of sands and pines. The road was spacious and in a direct line. The majestic perpendicular pines, apparently towering to the clouds, imparted an imposing and solemn aspect to the scenery. The only relief from this monotony, and the cheerless and painful silence, we found was noticing the watchful and timid deer grazing in the woods. The few inhabitants scattered here and there in the forest, subsist by the chase, burning tar and collecting turpentine. It was nearly dark when we reached the river Neuse, which having crossed, we again mounted our horses and proceeded on to Newbern, the capital of North Carolina, groping our way in the dark, along unknown roads, and drenched by the heavy rains.

On our arrival, excessively wearied, and needing repose and shelter, we wandered in pursuit of quarters, from street to street, and were turned from tavern to tavern every house being filled by French adventurers. At one of these taverns, kept by one T, we were repulsed by the landlord with so much rudeness as to produce a severe quarrel in the piazzi, where we stood soliciting quarters. Newbern was the metropolis of North Carolina, situated at the confluence of the Neuse and Trent Rivers, and contained about one hundred and fifty dwellings. It was defended by a strong fort and an armed ship. Previous to the war it exported corn, naval stores, beeswax, hams and deer-skins, to a considerable amount.

The next morning Harwood proceeded to a barber's shop to be shaved. I soon after started in pursuit of the same barber. I had not gone far before I met Harwood, his pace somewhat quickened, and with one side only of his face shaved. He soon informed me that the barber had been impertinent, and that he had knocked him down and left him sprawling on the floor. We agreed that to avoid trouble he should push on, and that I should follow. He was soon on his way through the streets of the capital of North Carolina, in the ludicrous predicament I have described. I left Newbern soon after upon Harwood's track, and

crossed the Trent by a rope ferry seventy feet wide. I journeyed the entire day alone, through a wilderness of pines, over a flat, sandy country, with scarcely an inhabitant to be seen. Toward the close of the day I found myself entangled among swamps, amid an utter wilderness, and my horse almost exhausted in my efforts to overtake Harwood. As night closed upon me, I was totally bewildered, and without a vestige of a road to guide me. Knowing the impossibility of retracing my steps in the dark, through the mazes I had traversed, I felt the absolute necessity of passing the night in this solitary desert. Feeling no apprehension that my horse would wander far from me, I turned him to shift for himself. I then placed my box under the sulky, and with my pistols fresh primed on one side, and my hanger on the other, I drew around me my grego, and, prostrated on the ground along with these, my only companions, half asleep and half awake, I passed the night in no trifling apprehension of falling a prey to wild beasts before morning.

At length, to my inexpressible satisfaction, the eastern horizon began to kindle up, and gradually to brighten more and more into the full blaze of day. I found my faithful horse true to his allegiance, and within reach. I harnessed up, and pressed with as much speed as possible out of this dreary retreat of solitude and desolation. My movements were somewhat accelerated by observing a large bear stepping slowly along at a little distance from me. After several miles traveling I regained the road, and in the course of the forenoon overtook Harwood.

We crossed the Neuse River, and passed over a continuous pine barren to Wilmington, on Cape Fear River. This was a compact town, ten miles from the sea, and is surrounded by sand-hills. It was defended by two forts, and two brigs of sixteen guns each. It formerly exported large quantities of naval stores, pork, furs, etc., which it received by the river from the fertile country in the interior. The killing of deer by torch-light was a favorite amusement of the inhabitants of this region.

On leaving Wilmington we crossed the Cape Fear River, which is here two hundred yards wide, and navigable by vessels of twenty feet draught. At Brunswick nearly all the houses had been deserted from apprehension of the enemy. From this place to Lockwood's Folly, twenty-two miles, is an unbroken wilderness; not a house, not even a wild tar-burner's, was presented to our view the whole distance. Fortunately forewarned, we had prepared ourselves with supplies to encounter this desert. At night we encamped at a wretched hovel, without floor or furni

ture.

The next day we crossed Little River, the country continuing to exhibit the same dreary and desolate aspect. The ensuing morning we passed a dangerous wash, at the north entrance of Long Bay. Suddenly the ocean and several ships burst upon our view. The contrast was a great relief to our minds and eyes after traveling so many days over a waste of sand.

We rode along this bay for sixteen miles on the edge of the surf, upon a hard, firm beach. The swell roared and curled upon the shore, and, as we advanced, the variety of sea-birds starting on the wing, and a school of porpoises rolling up their black backs on the surface of the sea, amused us as we passed along this beautiful scene. Sand hillocks ran parallel with the shore on our right, over which land birds were continually hovering. We were alarmed and surprised as we entered on the circuit of this bay, to observe, as we thought for the moment, several men, with horses and carriages, at a distance, swimming in the sea. We were soon, however, relieved by noticing an exhalation in that direction, which had produced the mirage. About half way across the beach we met a group of travelers, who proved to be General McIntosh and suit, going to the north to join the army.

We mutually stopped to exchange civilities and learn the news. Our minds had for several days been depressed in reflecting upon the critical condition of our national affairs. Gracious God! how were we astonished and transported with joy on hearing from the general that Burgoyne and his whole army were prisoners of war! In confirmation of the intelligence, he presented us a handbill, printed at Charleston, containing the articles of capitulation. We involuntarily took off our hats and gave three hearty cheers in concert with the roaring of the surge. All con

sidered this glorious event as deciding the question of our eventual independence. In triumph we carried the joyous news to the hospitable seat of William Alston Esq., one of the most respectable and affluent planters in South Carolina. We arrived at the close of the day, but were received with open arms and entertained in the most sumptuous style. With music and his best madeira we celebrated the great event we had announced, in high glee, to a late hour of the night.

We had been cautioned to be on our guard against the attacks of runaway negroes, in the passage of swamps near Wingan Bay. As we entered the second swamp, fourteen naked negroes, armed with poles, presented themselves in the attitude of hostility, across the road. Harwood seized one of my pistols and charged them at full speed, making the woods resound with his thundering voice. I pressed forward close to his heels in my sulky, armed with the other pistol. They threw down their rails and dashed into the woods, and we passed on without further interruption.

As evening closed in we embarked in a good ferry-boat, manned by four jolly, well-fed negroes, to cross Wingan Bay, a distance of four miles. The evening was serene, the stars shone brightly, and the poor fellows amused us the whole way by singing their plaintive African songs in cadence with the oars. We reached Georgetown in the evening. It stands on the Wingan River, and is the second place of importance in the state. After leaving Georgetown we passed the Black River, and, crossing a second ferry, traveled over Santee island.

At length, on the 18th of November, 1777, the city of Charleston presented itself to our view. We left our horses and crossed Cooper's River in a yawl. I was delighted with the view of this splendid city, and the shipping in its harbor. After a seventy days' journey from Providence, having traveled 1,243 miles, it was to me almost like the entrance of the Israelite into the promised land. I performed the the whole route either on horseback or in a sulky.

In the intervals of business, I mingled with delight in the elegant and gay society of this refined metropolis, under the wing of Mr. Russell, the consignee of Mr. Brown, a gentleman of New England origin, but occupying a distinguished position in the mercantile community of Charleston.

Among the females of Charleston we observed many elegant, accomplished women, but generally of sallow complexions, and without that bloom that distinguishes the daughters of the north. Perhaps no city of America exhibits, in proportion to its size, so much splendor and style as Charleston. The rich planters of the state live in almost Asiatic luxury, and usually, before the Revolution, educated their sons in Europe.*

Having arranged my affairs in Charleston, I determined, in company with a Mr. Bloomfield, of Boston, and Mr. Clark, of New Haven, to extend my tour to the south as far as prudence should warrant. In pursuance of this plan we left Charleston on the 29th of January, 1788.

The road to Ashley River is delightful. We passed many elegant seats, with fine gardens and grounds. The road in some places is shaded by lofty trees, from which we were sweetly serenaded by the music of beautiful birds, offering up, we could believe, their evening praises to our common Benefactor.

On this river are situated the choicest plantations, and the most elegant and numerous country-seats, in the state. The extensive marshes bordering upon this and adjacent streams, had recently been converted into highly productive rice plantations, to which culture they are well adapted. In the evening of this day we were much annoyed by the quarrel of two overseers in an adjoining room, who soon gave us a fair (or rather foul) specimen of a genuine Georgia gouging-match. They rushed upon each other with the fury and ferocity of bull-dogs, and made every effort to gouge out each other's eyes. We at length succeeded in separating In the morning, as we were about leaving the inn, an old French officer rode

them.

Before the Revolution about one hundred and forty ships were annually freighted at Charleston, Georgetown and Beaufort, and principally at the former, with rice, indigo, tobacco, skins and naval stores; about seventy thousand casks of rice, and thirty thousand deer-skins, were yearly exported.

up and tied his horse to the post, and passing us with a profound bow, entered the house. He wore a three-cornered cocked hat, a laced coat, a long queue tied close to his head with a ribbon in a large double bow, his hair powdered, and a long sword dangling by his side. He spoke only French. Immediately after him came up a negro riding on a mule, which, in despite of his rider's efforts, dashed in between the post and the horse. In the struggle the horse's bridle broke, and away went the horse into the woods, with a heavy portmanteau dancing at his side. The Frenchman, no doubt thinking it all design (for he did not comprehend a word of the negro's explanation), drew his long sword, his eyes flashing fury. The moment the negro saw the sword he sprang off his mule and darted for the forest, with monsieur in full chase after him, vociferating most vehemently. At first we were alarmed, but perceiving the negro to be too nimble for him, were exceedingly amused by the chase. Despairing of overtaking the lad, the Frenchman darted his sword after him, exclaiming, " Belitre-diable," etc. We soon after started, and saw the poor terrified black still scudding away far off among the pines.

The next day we passed Pond Pond, and traveled over an interesting country, interspersed with fine plantations. The roads are as level as a bowling-green, and generally in a direct line. We noticed peas in blossom. Near the Ashepoo we observed several Indians seated on a log. We ascertained that they were the celebrated warrior Little Carpenter, king of the Cherokees, with his queen and several counsellors, on their way to Charleston, to "brighten and strengthen," as he told us, in good English, "the chain of union.'

We passed Barnard Elliot's magnificent residence, and those of other planters, in the distance, on avenues cut through the woods, and surrounded by their little villages of negro huts. The 1st of February we had a succession of showers, with heavy thunder, similar to our northern April weather. The next day we crossed over to Port Royal Island. At the ferry-house, where we stopped for the night, a party of the young folks of the lower order had assembled, and, willing to contribute to their amusement, as well as my own, I took out my flute, and playing some jigs, set them dancing, shuffling, and capering in merry style.

This island is about ten miles square. The land is generally poor, affording but a few rice plantations. The staple is indigo, which grows on a light soil. Some cotton is cultivated here for domestic purposes; but as it is so difficult to disentangle the fiber from the seed, its extensive culture is not attempted, although it eminently flourishes in this climate, and is a most important article. Every evening we have noticed the negroes, old and young, clustered in their huts, around their pine-knot fires, plucking the obstinate seed from the cotton

Deer and foxes abound on this island. Beaufort is handsomely situated, and contains about seventy houses, besides public buildings, and is defended by a respectable fort, two miles below the town. We retraced our steps and again crossed the ferry. At noon, stopping at a very decent looking house, which we supposed to be a tavern, we ordered our dinner, wine, etc., with the utmost freedom. What was our amazement and mortification when, inquiring for the bill, our host replied, "Gentlemen, I keep no tavern, but am very much obliged to you for your visit." In the true spirit of southern liberality, he insisted upon our taking a bed with him on our return from Georgia. This incident exhibits the beautiful trait of hospitality, for which the south is so distinguished.

The next day we entered Savannah, the capital of Georgia. We delivered our letters to General Walton, one of the signers of the declaration of independence, Commodore Bowen and other gentlemen, which gained us early admission into the delightful society of the city.