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of petrifaction is stopped on that side, and the waters continue to flow and spread abroad, incrusting the whole face of the hill below. The last formed calcareous border of the circular basin is soft, and easily divided; at a small depth it is more compact; and at a depth of six inches it is generally hard white stone. If the bottom of the basin is stirred up, a quantity of the red calx of iron rises, and escapes over the summit of the crater.

Visitants to the hot springs, having observed shrubs and trees with their roots in the hot water, have been induced to try experiments, by sticking Some branches of the wax branches of trees in the run of hot water. myrtle were found thrust into the bottom of a spring run, the water of which was 130°. by Fahrenheit's thermometer; the foliage and fruit of the branch were not only sound and healthy, but at the surface of the water roots were actually sprouting from it on pulling it up the part which had penetrated the hot mud was found decayed.

The green substance discoverable at the bottom of the hot springs, and which at first sight has the appearance of plush, on examination by the microscope, was found to be a vegetable production. A film of green matter spreads itself on the calcareous base, from which rise fibres more than half an inch in length, forming a beautiful vegetation. Before the microscope it sparkled with innumerable nodules of lime, some part of which was beautifully crystalized. This circumstance might cause a doubt of its being a true vegetable, but its great resemblance to some of the mosses, particularly the byssi, and the discovery which Mr. Dunbar made of its be ing the residence of animal life, confirmed his belief in its being a true moss. After a diligent search he discovered a very minute shell fish, of the bivalve kind, inhabiting this moss; its shape nearly that of the fresh water muscle; the colour of the shell a greyish brown, with spots of a purplish colour. When the animal is undisturbed it opens the shell, and thrusts out four legs, very transparent, and articulated like those of a quadruped; the extremities of the fore legs are very slender and sharp, but those of the hind legs somewhat broader, apparently armed with minute toes: from the extremity of each shell issues three of four forked hairs, which the animal seems to possess the power of moving; the fore legs are probably formed for making incisions into the mess for the purpose of procuring access to the juices of the living plant, upon which, no doubt, it feeds: it may be provided with a proboscis, although it did not appear while the animal was under examination: the hind legs are well adapted for propelling it in its progress over the moss, or through the water.

It would be desirable to ascertain the cause of that perpetual fire, which keeps up the high temperature of so many springs, as flow from this hill, at a considerable distance from each other: upon looking around, however, sufficient data for the solution of the difficulty is not discoverable. Nothing of a volcanick nature is to be seen in this country; neither could they learn that any evidence in favour of such a supposition was to be found in the An immense bed of dark blue schismountains connected with this river. tus appears to form the base of the hot spring hill, and of all those in its neighbourhood: the bottom of the creek is formed of it; and pieces are frequently met with rendered soft by decomposition, and possessing a strong alumnious taste, requiring nothing but lixiviation and crystalization to complete the manufacture of alum. As bedies undergoing chemical changes generally produced an alteration of temperature, the heat of these springs may be owing to the disengagement of calorick, or the decomposition of the schistus another and perhaps a more satisfactory cause may be assigned: it is well known, that within the circle of the waters of this river vast beds of martial pyrites exist; they have not yet, however, been discovered in the vicinage of the hot springs, but may, nevertheless, form immense beds

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under the bases of these hills ; and as in one place at least, there is evidence of the presence of bitumen,* the union of these agents will in the progress of decomposition, by the admission of air and moisture, produce degrees of heat capable of supporting the phenomena of the hot springs. No sulphu. rick acid is present in this water ; the springs may be supplied by the vapour of heated water, ascending from caverns where the heat is generated, or the heat may be immediately applied to the bottom of an immense natural caldron of rock, contained in the bowels of the hill, from which as a reser. voir the springs inay be supplied.

A series of accurate observations determined the latitude of the hot springs to be 34° 31' 4", 16 N. and long 6h. 11' 25', or 92° 50' 45'4 west from the meridian of Greenwich.

While Mr. Dunbar was making arrangements for transporting the baggage back to the river camp, doctor Hunter, with a small party, went on an excursion into the country. He left the hot springs on the moming of the 27th, and after travelling sometimes over hills and steep craggy mountains with narrow valleys between them, then up the valleys and generally by the side of a branch emptying into the Washita, they reached the main branch of the Calfat in the evening, about twelve miles from the springs. The stones they met with during the first part of the day were silicious, of a whitish-grey, with flints white, cream-coloured, red, &c. The beds of the rivulets, and often a considerable way up the hills, shewed immense bodies of schistus, both blue and grey, some of it efflorescing and tasting strongly of alum. The latter part of the day, they travelled over and between hills of black, hard, and compact flint in shapeless masses, with schist as before. On ascending these high grounds you distinctly perceive the commence. ment of the piney region, beginning at the height of sixty or seventy feet and extending to the top. The soil in these narrow valley's is thin and full of stones. The next day, which was stormy, they reached a branch of the bayau de saline, which stretches towards the Arkansa, and empties into the Washita many leagues below, having gone about twelve miles. The mountains they had passed being of the primitive kind, which seldom produce metals, and having hitherto seen nothing of a mineral kind, a little poop iron ore excepted, and the face of the country, as far as they could see, presenting the same aspect ; they returned to the camp, at the hot springs, on the evening of the thirtieth, by another route, in which they met with nothing worthy notice.

In consequence of the rains which had fallen, Mr. Dunbar, and those who were transporting the baggage to the river camp, found the road! watry. The soil on the flat lands under the stratum of vegetable mould is yellowish, and consists of decomposed schistus, of which there are immense beds in every stage of dissolution, from the hard stone recently uncovered and partially decomposed to the yellow and apparently homogeneous earth. The covering of vegetable earth between the hills and the river is, in most places, sufficiently thick to constitute a good soil, being from four to six inches ; and it is the opinion of the people upon the Washita, that wheat will grow here to great perfection. Although the higher hills, three hwd. red to six hundred feet in height, are very rocky, yet the inferiour hills, and the sloping bases of the first, are generally covered with a soil of a middling quality. The natural productions are sufficiently luxuriant, consisting chiefly of black and red oak, intermixed with a variety of other woods, and a considerable undergrowth. Even on these rocky hills are three or

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Having thrust a stick down into the crater of one of the springs, at some distance up the bi!l, several er på of petroleuin, or naptba, rose and sprcad upon the surface : it ceased to rise after three or four attempts.

four species of vines, said to produce annually an abundance of excellent grapes. A great variety of plants which grow here, some of which in their season are said to produce flowers highly ornamental, would probably reward the researches of the botanist.

On the morning of the 8th of January, 1805, the party left Ellis's on the river camp, where they had been detained for several days waiting for such a rise in the waters of the river, as would carry their boat in safety over the numerous rapids below. A rise of about six feet, which had taken place the evening before, determined them to move this morning; and they passed the chuttes about one o'clock. They stopped to examine the rocky promontary below these falls, and took some specimens of the stone which so much resembles the Turkey oil stone. It appears too hard. The strata of this chain were observed to run perpendicularly nearly east and west, crossed by fissures at right angles from five to eight feet apart; the lamina from one fourth of an inch to five inches in thickness. About a league below, they landed at Whetstone hill and took several specimens. This projecting hill is a mass of greyish blue schistus of considerable hardness, and about twenty feet perpendicular, not regularly so, and from a quarter to two inches in thickness, but does not split with an even surface.

They landed again on the morning of the 9th, in sight of the bayau de la prairie de champignole, to examine and take specimens of some free stone and blue state. The slate is a blue schistus, hard, brittle, and unfit for the covering of house; none proper for that purpose have been discovered, except on the Calfat, which Dr. Hunter met with in one of his excursions. On the evening of the 10th they encamped near Arclon's Troughs, having been only three days in descending the distance which took them thirteen to ascend. They stopped some time at the camp of a Mr. Le Fevre. He is an intelligent man, a native of the Illinois, but now residing at the Arkansas. He came here with some Delaware and other Indians, whom he had fitted out with goods, and receives their peltry, fur, &c. at a stipulated price, as it is brought in by the hunters. Mr. Le Fevre possesses considerable knowledge of the interiour of the country; he confirms the account before obtained, that the hills or mountains which give rise to this little river are in a manner insulated; that is, they are entirely shut in and inclosed by the immense plains or prairies which extend beyond the Red river, to the south, and beyond the Missouri, or at least some of its branches, to the north, and range along the eastern base of the great chain, or dividing ridge, commonly known by the name of the sand hills, which separate the waters of the Mississippi from those which fall into the Pacifick ocean. The breadth of this great plain is not well ascertained. It is said by some to be at certain parts, or in certain directions, not less than two hundred leagues; but it is agreed by all who have a knowledge of the western country, that the mean breadth is at least two thirds of that distance. A branch of the Missouri called the river Platte, or Shallow river, is said to take its rise so far south as to derive its first waters from the neighbourhood of the sources of the Red and Arkansa rivers. By the expression plains or prairies, in this place, is not to be understood a dead flat, resembling certain savannas, whose soil is stiff and impenetrable, often under water, and bearing only a coarse grass resembling reeds; very different are the western prairies, which expression signifies only a country without timber. These prairies are neither flat nor hilly, but undulating into gently swelling Liwns and expanding into spacious vallies, in the centre of which is always found a little timber growing on the banks of the brooks and rivulets of the finest waters. The whole of these prairies are represented to be composed of the richest and most fertile soil; the most luxuriant and succulent herbage covers the surface of the earth, interspersed with millions of flowers

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and flowering shrubs, of the most ornamental kinds. viewed only a skirt of these prairies, speak of them with enthusiasm, as if it was only there that nature was to be found truly perfect; they declare, that the fertility and beauty of the rising grounds, the extreme richness of the vales, the coolness and excellent quality of the water found in every valley, the salubrity of the atmosphere, and above all the grandeur of the enchanting landscape which this country presents, inspire the soul with sensations not to be felt in any other region of the globe. This paradise is now very thinly inhabited by a few tribes of savages, and by the immense herds of wild cattle, (bison) which people these countries. The cattle perform regular migrations according to the seasons, from south to north, and from the plains to the mountains; and in due time, taught by their instincts, take a retrogade direction. These tribes move in the rear of the herds, and pick up stragglers, and such as lag behind, which they kill with the bow and arrow, for their subsistence. This country is not subjected to those sudden deluges of rain which in most hot countries, and even in the Mississippi territory, tear up and sweep away with irresistable fury, the crop and soil together: on the contrary, rain is said to become more rare in proportion as the great chain of mountain is approached; and it would seem that within the sphere of the attraction of those elevated ridges, little or no rain falls on the adjoining plains. This relation is the more credible, as in that respect our new country may resemble other flat or comparatively low countries, similarly situated; such as the country lying between the Andes and the western Pacifick; the plains are supplied with nightly dews so extremely abundant, as to have the effect of refreshing showers of rain; and the spacious vallies, which, are extremely level, may with facility be watered by the rills and brooks which are never absent from these situations. Such is the description of the better known country lying to the south of Red river, from Nacogdoches towards St. Antonio, in the province of Taxus: the richest crops are said to be procured there without rain; but agriculture in that quarter is at a low ebb the small quantities of maize furnished by the country, is said to be raised without cultivation. A rude opening is made in the earth, sufficient to deposit the grain, at the distance of four or five feet, in irregular squares, and the rest is left to nature. The soil is tender, spongy and rich, and seems always to retain humidity sufficient, with the bounteous dews of Heaven, to bring the crops to maturity.

The Red and Arcansa rivers, whose courses are very long, pass through portions of this fine country. They are both navigable to an unknown distance by boats of proper construction; the Arcansa river is, however, understood to have greatly the advantage with respect to the facility of navigation. Some difficult places are met with in the Red river below the Nakitosh, after which it is good for one hundred and fifty leagues (probable computed leagues of the country, about two miles each); there the voyager meets with a very serious obstacle, the commencement of the "raft," as it is called; that is, a natural covering which conceals the whole river for an extent of seventeen leagues, continually augmenting by the driftwood brought down by every considerable fresh. This covering, which, for a considerable time, was only drift-wood, now supports a vegetation of every thing abounding in the neighbouring forest, not excepting trees of a consider. able size; and the river may be frequently passed without any knowledge of its existence. It is said that the annual inundation is opening for itself a rew passage through the low grounds ne: r the hills; but it must be long before nature, unaided, will excavate a passage sufficient for the waters of Red river. About fifty leagues above this natural bridge, is the residence of the Cadeaux or Cadadoquies nation, whose good qualities are already mentioned. The inhabitants estimate the post of Nakitosh to be half way

between New Orleans and the Cadeaux nation. Above this point the navi gation of Red river is said to be embarrassed by many rapids, falls, and shallows. The Arcansa river is said to present a safe, agreeable, and uninterrupted navigation as high as it is known. The lands on each side are of the best quality, and well watered with springs, brooks, and rivulets, affording m ny situations for mill-seats. From description it would seem that along this river there is a regular gradation of hill and dale, presenting their extremities to the river; the hills are gently swelling eminences, and the dales, spacious vallies with living water meandering through them; the forests consist of handsome trees, chiefly what is called open woods. The quality of the land is supposed superiour to that on Red river, until it ascends to the prairie country, where the lands on both rivers are probably similar. About two hundred leagues up the Arcansa is an interesting place called the Salt prairie there is a considerable fork of the river there, and a kind of savanna where the salt water is continually oozing out and spreading over the surface of a plain. During the dry summer season the salt may be raked up in large heaps; a natural crust of a hand breadth in thickness is formed at this season. This place is not often frequented, on account of the danger from the Osage Indians; much less dare the white hunters venture to ascend higher, where it is generally believed that silver is to be found. It is further said, that high up the Arcansa river salt is found in form of a solid rock, and may be dug out with the crow-bar. The waters of the Arcansa, like those of Red river, are not potable during the dry season, being both charged highly with a reddish earth or mould, and extremely brackish. This inconvenience is not greatly felt upon the Arcansa, where springs and brooks of fresh water are frequent; the Red river is understood not to be so highly favoured. Every account seems to prove, that immense natural magazines of salt must exist in the great chain of mountains to the westward; as all the rivers in the summer season, which flow from them, are strongly impregnated with that mineral, and are only rendered palatable after receiving the numerous streams of fresh water which join them in their, course. The great western prairies, besides the herds of wild cattle, (bison, commonly called buffaloe) are also stocked with vast numbers of wild goat (not resembling the domestick goat) extremely swift footed. As the description given of this goat is not perfect, it may from its swiftness prove to be the antelope, or it possibly may be a goat which has escaped from the Spanish settlements of New Mexico. A Canadian, who had been much with the Indians to the westward, speaks of a wool-bearing animal, larger, than a sheep, the wool much mixed with hair, which he had seen in large flocks. He pretends also to have seen a unicorn, the single horn of which,. he says, rises out of the forehead and curls back, conveying the idea of the fossil cornu ammonis. This man says, he has travelled beyond the great dividing ridge so far as to have seen a large river flowing to the westward. The great dividing monutain is so lofty that it requires two days to ascend from the base to its top; other ranges of inferiour mountains lie before and behind it; they are all rocky and sandy. Large lakes and vallies lie between the mountains. Some of the lakes are so large as to contain considerable islands; and rivers flow from some of them. Great numbers of fossil bones, of very large dimensions, are seen among the mountains, which the Cana dian supposes to be the elephant. He does not pretend to have seen any of the precious metals, but has seen a mineral which he supposes might yield copper. From the top of the high mountain the view is bounded by a curve as upon the ocean, and extends over the most beautiful prairies, which seem to be unbounded, particularly towards the east. The finest of the lands he has seen are on the Missouri; no other can compare in richness and fertility with them. This Canadian, as well as Le Fevre, speak of the Osages of the tribe of Whitehairs, as lawless and unprincipled: and the other In

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