Moving to Goa
Many people dream of escaping the stresses and strains of urban life and moving to Goa. Katharina Kakar and her husband, the psychoanalyst and writer Sudhir Kakar, followed their dream and boldly took that plunge— buying a charming old house in a tranquil south Goa village, where they hoped to find a whole new way of living and working. Ten years later, they are still there, living the idyll—and the reality—of life in Goa. So which is the real Goa? Is it all about sun and sand, beaches and bikinis, feni and vindaloo? This book captures the allure of all these, as well as the festivals and rituals that punctuate the rhythm of village life. It portrays fascinating local characters, ranging from ageing hippies, beach boys and elusive workmen to the aristocratic residents of Goa’s grand old mansions. But it also reveals lesser-known aspects of Goa: the hidden—often shocking—histories of its colonial past; and the debates and fissures that engage and divide Goan society today. In part personal memoir and travelogue, in part an insightful look at Goan history and society, this book portrays Goa with all its paradoxes and problems, its seductive pleasures and, above all, its unique and enduring charm.
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Corner of Paradise
Sex on the Beach
Where the Arrow Struck
Houses of Chandor Houses of Loutolim
Fish Curry and Rice
Moving towards Christmas
Sacred Groves in Secret Forests
The Curse of the Red Gold Rush
Visiting the Migrant Gods
Horses Slaves and Women
How Foreign Is Foreign?
The Stoned PigHippies and Neohippies
Acknowledgements Follow Penguin Copyright Page
Anjuna Anjuna beach areas beach boys beach shacks beautiful Benaulim bhaile Brahmin called cashew century Chandor Christian Christmas church coconut colonies Colva convert cribs cuisine culture Damodar Mauzo dance Dećo deity Delhi destroyed dishes drugs Eight-Finger-Eddie feast feni festivals fish flowers foreign forest friends garden girls Goa Foundation Goa’s Goan Catholics Goan Hindus goddess Hindu Hindu and Catholic hinterland horses Indian Inquisition Jesuits Kamat Konkani Kunbis land later living look Loutolim Margao Maria migrant mining Miranda monsoon moved to Goa Muslim neighbours neo-hippies night north Goa one’s pigs plants Portuguese Pratima priests Quepem rain Rajendra restaurants rice rituals sacred groves Salcete Saraswat season Shantadurga Shiva shrine slaves sorpotel south Goa story Sudhir taluka temple tourists trade tradition travellers tree tribal Vailankanni Velips veranda village vindaloo Western woman women wonder worship young Zuari river