division of Islam, contains a large population of Persians. In fact it is said that of the 6000 inhabitants at least 5000 hail from Persia. The town offers no attractions in itself, much resembling the poorer quarters of Baghdad. The one object for which it is celebrated, besides its shrine and mosque,

is the tramway-line which the only excellent pasha that Baghdad has seen for many years, Midhat, caused to be laid in 1870. In the centre of the town stands the wonderful mosque, with its goldplated domes and minarets. A high wall encircles the great courtyard in which the building stands, large gateways of rich tile and carved woodwork

giving entrance. Through these doorways one is able to obtain a good general idea of the mosque within, though it must be only a passing glimpse, as a moment's delay will call down upon one's head a threat and a curse, or even a blow, from some Sheiya fanatic. From the view I obtained, now through one gate, now through another, the mosque appears to be one of great beauty, the walls of the principal building being entirely covered in magnificent examples of tilework and faïence of every hue and colour, yet blended with the most perfect

taste.

From Kazimin one drives back by the tramway to old Baghdad, passing first through gardens of palms, and then across the open plain, where stands the solitary octagonal tower over the tomb of Zobeida, the favourite wife of Harun er-Rashid.

Then leaving the tramway, one continues through the narrow tortuous streets of old Baghdad, and across the creaky bridge of boats to the more civilised portion of the town.

320

CHAPTER XIV.

THE VOYAGE HOME.

It was not until after considerable delays that the steamer eventually left the quay at Baghdad. These delays, like the discomfort I was to suffer on the journey, were owing to the presence of a distinguished official, who held the post of Admiral of the Tigris, and by whom I found, in spite of assertions to the contrary, all the first-class accommodation had been engaged. There are two lines of riversteamers that ply upon the Tigris between Baghdad and Busra, of which far and away the best is the English; but the dates of departure did not suit me, and I found myself in for three days and three nights in the second-class accommodation of a dirty Turkish boat. As a matter of fact, I didn't care much. What, after the long journey we had made, mattered a few days more or less of dirt and discomfort? I had, however, been able to take one

precaution, and that was to bring with me a young Greek servant of Baghdad, who could attend to my wants upon the journey, and even cook my food, for there is no regular food supply upon the boats. Luckily I had been warned of this, and came on board fully prepared with a large basket of meat, vegetables, bread, fruit, and wine, the perishable articles to be replaced at the various little towns of call upon the journey.

The cabin put aside for my use was small and dirty, and contained two berths; but I found the captain and crew of the steamer willing, good-natured fellows, and a bucket of soap-suds and water soon improved the appearance of things. My bedding was quickly unpacked, and I settled in.

At dawn we passed the ruins of Ctesiphon, called by the natives Tak-i-Kesra, of which the remains of a grand façade and vaulted hall alone exist to tell of the marvellous building of the Arsacid and Sassanian monarchs. Nothing but a few mud-heaps are visible, however, on the site of the once so famous city which surrounded it; nor from the river can much be distinguished of the remains of the town of Seleucia, on the opposite bank. The great pile of yellow building, solitary on the vast plain, bears a most melancholy appearance, even though the morning sunlight showed everything at its best.

Anything more dreary than the scenery of the Tigris between Baghdad and Busra could not be imagined. To right and left stretch barren plains of baked clay, except where here and there vast fever-swamps, with gigantic rushes, take their place. Yet even both these types of desolation support life, human and otherwise, and on the banks, pitched in the blazing shimmering heat, stand the brown tents of the Arabs. Even on the steamer, where was shade and movement, the heat was terrific, and what it must have been within the scanty shelter of the dirty tents, heaven only knows. A few weary-looking cattle and flocks and herds browsed here and there, and buffaloes, up to their shoulders in water, stood and watched the steamer pass. The Suez Canal is a paradise compared to this part of the Tigris in summer. Great deep cracks break the clay soil in every direction, and even the thick yellow river wears the appearance of molten metal.

These river plains extend far away to the west, in the upper portion forming the southern end of Mesopotamia, the country lying above the junction of the Tigris and Euphrates; and below where these rivers unite and form the Shatt El-Arabas it is called-mile upon mile of dreary marsh takes their place. In the marshes all communication from village to village-for even here the Arabs