"I am very far, however, from thinking that the city of London is toore unhealthy than other cities, becaufe it has no other firing than pitcoal. For not only do experience and a long train of obfervations prove the contrary, but it is alío to be prefumed that this immenfe quantity of firing contributes to its falubrity; in the firft place, by the strong, equal, and conftant heat produced by the pitcoal, in an atmosphere naturally inpregnated with water; and in the fecond place, becaufe fo many chinnies, fo many manufactories and works of every kind ufing fire, occation currents and changes of the air on every fide, which carry off the noxious and pestilential vapours that always take place when the refpirable mafs is too long itagnant.

"With regard to the emanations from the coal while it is burning, they are of two kinds: the first are bitu minous, and even a little balfamic, and, therefore, rather falutary than injurious to the lungs. The fecond, which are difengaged when the combuitble is, very strongly burnt, are acid, and confequently antifeptic. But the good construction of the chimnies, and the impulfive action of the fire, elevate the column of vapours above the habitations. Then the Imallest wind (and there always blows one at a certain height) removes and diffipates thefe emanations, which act only on the iron works, particularly the most elevated, or on the foliage of trees planted too near the city.

of flate, upon which a figure of Chrift was carved in demi-relievo. The ftyle of the figure was indifferent, but the execution was fine. The figure and the crofs were of the fame piece, and the ftone was about five feet high.

"We were aftonifhed to fee a religious monument of this kind fo well preferved in a Proteftant country. An old fhepherd, who came up while we were looking at it, told us, that he had been informed by his parents, that this crofs had ftood in that place for more than four hundred years; and that although there were no Roman Catholics in the parish, and though all their images had been deftroyed at the reformation, yet this Crofs had been allowed to remain. He could affign no reafon for this fingular circumfiance, except that the people of the country having been accuitomed to fee it from father to fon, had preferved a kind of respect for it, though they did not pay to it any devotion.

"A large column of rough ftone was at the fame time pointed out to us at the diftance of five hundred

toifes from this crofs. We were told, that the Romans had sacrificed upon it to their falfe gods. Such were the words of an inhabitant of the country, who appeared to be a schoolmafter, and who spoke little English." Vol. i. p. 309.

BENICHTED-VIOLENT STORMPLEASANT ADVENTURE.

ANCIENT CROSS, NEAR BUN-AWE. "IN a few minutes after we had fet out, we obferved on the fide of a hillock, fronting the road, a cross, formed of black ftone, of the nature

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the noife of the torrents, by the lightning and the thunder, moved flowly along, and halted at every step. At laft our conductors advifed us to come out of our carriages, notwithstanding the dreadful rain; for they found that we had loft our way, and were afraid that we might be overturned, and fall down fome precipice.

"We did as we were directed, and it was full time to adopt this courie; for we were upon the edge of very freep rocks. Some fupported the chaifes, fome held back the wheels, and others endeavoured to find fome traces of the road. In this manner we proceeded flowly onwards, with much trouble and great fear, not knowing where we were, nor where we were going.

"At ten o'clock Patrick Frafer, hearing the noife of the fea, faid, We are completely out of our way, there is no doubt of it. I cannot tell where we are. Oban, however, cannot be far off; for we have travelled a long time, and we now hear the fea; it appears that we have got upon fome elevated place, and we muit ufe all our prudence to rectify this wrong • ftep.'

"At midnight our danger and difficulties increafed; we heard the waves of the fea dafhing frightfully against the foot of the mountain on which we were. This increased our fears, and we stopped every moment to confult upon which way we might turn with fafety. Such was our fituation in this wild region; embarraffed by our hories and carriages; creeping along fteep and flippery declivities, where it was fcarcely poffible to keep our footing, and the rain continuing with increated force.

"The activity of Patrick Frafer was great, and he was always the foremost upon the look-out, He came back to inform us that it was neceffary to turn to the left, to avoid falling into the fea; that he believed he heard a stream about two hundred toifes diftant, and that by gaining its bed we might find fome outlet from the rugged track in which we were involved.

"We turned, and arrived with great difficulty at the brink of a fmail torrent; but the declivity of the bank was rapid, and the noife of the water announced a deep hollow. It was, however, neceffary to attempt this difficult paffage through briars and stones. The first carriage and chaife got down

without any accident. The second overturned, but was got up before the horfes were hurt, and there was nothing damaged but fome of our bag. gage. The third fucceeded better.

"Having entered the bed of the rivulet, we coafted along its banks, walking up to the knees in water. In about a quarter of an hour the noise of a cafcade, not far from us, fuddenly ftopped our progrefs. A ray of the moon penetrated through the dark clouds, and by its light we observed a few tufted trees, a fmall meadow, and fome cultivated fields. We are not

far from a houfe,' exclaimed Patrick Frafer; we muft call for help, to enable us to get out of this abyfs.'

"Wet from head to foot, trembling with cold, and worn out with fatigue, we affembled round our carriages below fome firs, hollowing as loud as we could, to induce any perfons who might be within hearing to come to our affiftance. This feene appeared to me so ridiculous, that I could not avoid bursting into laughter; indeed nobody was hurt, and none of us were inclined to be dejected by the accidents that had happened; on the contrary, we rather chofe to enliven the conversation with fome pleafantries.

"William Thornton, who poffeffed a lively imagination, and was paffion ately fond of the ancient poetry of this country, obferved that the place where we were, was not without charms; that it was calculated to inspire grand and romantic ideas; and if he had a glafs of rum to drive away the cold, he fhould be able to write an ode immediately.Weare,' faid he, among thofe mountains which the exploits of Fingal have for ever fignalized. The immortal Oflian has trod upon this ground.-His name is dear to the Mufes. My imagination warms!'

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"He had fcarcely repeated these words, which he pronounced with a tone of enthufiafm, when an old man, with his head uncovered, his hair white, and dreifed in a floating drapery of the fame colour, ftarted up before us. It is Olian!' cried Thornton, it is the divine poet himself! Let us 'proftrate ourselves before him.' The figure, however, which faid not a word in reply to this addrefs, and even did not deign to caft a look towards us, ftalked gravely acrofs the fiream, and fuddenly difappeared.

"Is it an illufion? Is it a dream?

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we all exclaimed; for we had all feen the fame object, seen it diftinctly by the light of the moon. We were aftonifhed, and remained for fome time in a ftate of uneafy expectation; at last we heard the voices of men coming to our alliftance. From them we learned that the water-fall was only the fluice of two mills, which had been opened, and the white phantom an old miller, who, awakened by our cries, ran in his fhirt bareheaded to our affiftance; but who, feeing horfes and carriages, and hearing a language which he did not understand, went off, without faying a word, to call his neighbours. Thele obliging highlanders came eagerly to help us out of our difficulties. They could not conceive how our carriages had defcended the fteep bank of the ftream without being dashed to pieces. It required all the address and ffrength of thefe athletic men to draw the chaifes out of this abyfs. They formed a kind of road with pick-axes, and carried the chaifes, as it were, on their fhoulders.

"They accompanied us to the village of Oban, which was only about five hundred toifes diftant, and condufted us to the only inn in the place. They made the landlord rife, who was not a little furprifed to fee three carriages, with ten perfons, at his door, at half paft one in the morning, in fuch a pitiable condition. We teftified our gratitude to the good highlanders who had affitted us in fo frank and hofpitable a manner. A large fire was lighted to dry us, and after drinking a good deal of tea and fome rum, we went to bed at four in the morning, and flept till ten: the fleep refreshed us, and except fome fight contufions, and fome remaining fatigue, all our troubles were forgot when we role." Val. i. p. 312.

EDINBURGH-DR. ADAM SMITH

HIGHLAND MUSIC.

«THAT venerable philofopher, Adam Smith, was one of thofe whom I visited most frequently. He received me on every occafion in the kindest manner, and ftudied to procure for me every information and amufement that Edinburgh could afford.

"Smith had travelled in France, and refided for fome time in Paris. His collection of books was numerous and excellently chofen. The best

French authors occupied a diftinguished place in his library, for he was very fond of our language.

"Though advanced in years he still poffeffed a fine figure. The animation of his countenance was ftriking, when he fpoke of Voltaire, whom he had known, and whofe memory he revered.

Reafon,' faid he, one day, as he fhowed me a fine buft of this author, ' owes him incalculable obligations; the ridicule and the farcafms which 'he fo plentifully beftowed upon fanatics and hypocrites of all fects, have enabled the understandings of men to bear the light of truth, and prepared them for thofe inquiries ta which every intelligent mind ought 'to afpire. He has done much more for the benefit of mankind than thofe grave philofophers whofe, books are read by a few only; the writings of Voltaire are made for all and read 'by all.'

"On another occafion he observed to me, I cannot pardon the Emperor Jofeph II. who pretended to travel as a philofopher, for pafling Ferney without paying homage to the hiftorian of the Czar Peter I. From this circumftance I concluded that Jofeph was but a man of inferior mind.'

"One evening while I was at tea with him he fpoke of Rouffeau with a kind of religious respect. Voltaire sought to correct the vices and the follies of mankind by laughing at them, and fometimes by treating them with feverity; Rouleau conducts the reader to reafon and truth, by the attraction of fentiment and the force of conviction. His Social Compact will one day avenge all the perfecutions he experienced.'

"He asked me one day, whether I loved mufic? I anfwered, that it formed one of my chief delights whenever I was fo fortunate as to hear it well executed. I am very glad of it,' faid he; I fhall put you to a 'proof which will be very interesting for me; for I fhall take you to hear a kind of mufic of which it is impoffible 'you can have formed any idea, and it will afford me great pleasure to know the impreffion it makes upon you.'

"Next morning, at nine o'clock, Smith came to my lodgings. At ten he conducted me to a fpacious concertroom, plainly but neatly decorated, in which I found a numerous audience.

I faw,

I faw, however, neither orcheftra, muficians, nor inftruments. A large fpace was left void in the middle of the room, and furrounded with benches; which were occupied by gentlemen only. Ladies and gentlemen were difperfed over the room upon other feats. Adam Smith informed me, that the gentlemen who fat in the middle were the judges of the mufical competition which was about to take place; they were almost all, he obferved, inhabitants of the ifles or highlands of Scotland, and might therefore be regarded as the natural judges of the conteft, They were to decree a prize to him who fhould beft execute a favourite piece of highland mufic. The fame air was therefore to be played by all the competitors.

"In about half an hour, a foldingdoor opened at the bottom of the room, and to my great furprife, I faw a highlander advance, playing upon the bagpipe. He was dreffed in the ancient Roman habit of his country. He walked up and down the empty space with rapid fteps and a martial air, blowing his noify inftrument, the difcordant founds of which were fufficient to rend the ear. The tune was a kind of fonata, divided into three parts. Smith requested me to pay my whole attention to the mufic, and to explain to him afterwards the impreffion it made upon me.

"But I confefs that at first I could not diftinguish either air or defign in the mufic. I was only ftruck with the piper marching continually backward and forward with great rapidity, and fill prefenting the fame warlike countenance. He made incredible efforts with his body and his fingers to bring into play the different reeds of his inftrument, which emitted founds that were to me almoft infupportable.

"He received however great applaufe. A fecond mufician fucceeded, who was alfo left alone in the intermediate area, which he traverfed with the fame rapidity as the former. His countenance was no lefs dignified and martial than that of his predeceffor.

He appeared to excel the first competi tor; and clapping of hands and cries of bravo refounded on every fide. During the third part of the air, I obferved that tears flowed from the eyes of a number of the audience.

Having liftened with much attention to eight pipers in fucceffion, I at laft began to difcover that the first part of the air was a warlike march: the fecond feemed to defcribe a fanguinary action; the musician endeavouring by a rapid fucceflion of loud and difcor dant founds to reprefent the clashing of arms, the fhrieks of the wounded, and all the horrors of a field of battle. In this part, the performer appeared convulfed; his pantomimical geftures refembled thofe of a man engaged in combat. His arms, his hands, his head, his legs, were all in motion. He called forth all the various founds of his inftrument at the fame moment, and this fingular diforder made a great impreffion upon the company.

"With a rapid tranfition the piper paffed to the third part, which was in a kind of andante. His convulfive motions fuddenly ceafed. His countenance affumed an air of deep forrow. The founds of his inftrument were plaintive, languid, and melancholy. They were lamentations for the flainthe wailings of their friends who carried them from the field of battle. This was the part which drew tears from the eyes of the beautiful Scotch ladies.

"The whole of this entertainment was fo extraordinary, and the impreffion which the founds of this wild inftrument feemed to make upon the greater part of the audience was fo very different from that which they made upon me, that I could not avoid conceiving that the lively emotions exhibited by the perfons around me were not occafioned by the mufical effect of the air itself, but by an allociation of ideas which connected 'the difcordant founds of the bagpipe with fome biftorical facts thus brought forcibly to the recollection of the audience. There are fcarcely any traces of a written language among the

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the highlanders, either in manufcripts or upon their monuments; it may therefore be prefumed that they have had recourfe to fongs to tranfmit to their pofterity the hiftory of the events in which they were deeply interested. Accustomed to hear thefe airs from their infancy, and taught by their parents to connect them with tranfactions which are to them of the greatest importance, they never hear them without being strongly affected. It is not therefore aftonishing that they are paffionately fond of this kind of mufic. They have, however, another kind, which is better adapted to the voice, and conftructed more according to the rules of art, which they ufe in their dances, and their amorous and conviVial fongs: but they regard this mufic as inferior to the former.

"The fame air was played by each competitor, of whom there was a confiderable number. There appeared to be no preference given but to talents, and the most difinterested applaufe was bestowed on thofe who excelled in their art. I confefs I did not admire any of them. To me they were all equally difagreeable. The mufic and the inftrument constantly reminded me of a bear's dance.

"The competition was followed by a lively and animated dance, formed by a part of the pipers while the others played fuitable airs, which poffelfed expreffion and character; but the union of fo many bagpipes produced a moft hideous noite.

"The competitors afterwards formed themselves into a line two deep, and marched in that order to the caftle of Edinburgh, which is built upon a volcanic rock. There they played an air, which was a kind of ballad, in honour of the unfortunate Mary Queen of Scots, for whom the highlanders fill preferve a warm attachment and religious refpect. They speak of her with a tender affection: they regard her as the innocent victim of the cruel and implacable jealousy of Elizabeth. Mary was their Queen. They knew that he was beautiful, mild, affable,

and generous; that the loved the arts; that the long languifhed in a painful captivity; and that he died with refignation and courage. Lefs would be fufficient to intereft honest peaceable men, whom ftate policy, and the crimes which it engenders, have not yet corrupted, and who abhor the hedding of blood in any way but for legitimate defence.

I do not know the antiquity of competitions of this kind. During my ftay in Mull, I was informed that there had been beyond all time of memory a college or fociety of bagpipers in that ifland. This school was not entirely extinguifhed in confequence of the death of the famous Rankin, who had the direction of it for about thirty years. M'Rimmon kept a fimilar fchool in the isle of Sky, and each of the principal families of the Hebrides always kept a piper, whose office was hereditary." Vol. ii. p. 240.

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