1

pats himself in a waundy strout; yet he be a main good-hearted soul for all that, an always twice as good natured as before, when we have been cross. Sukey and me never cares for his passions, caze we knows how good he be afterwards. Gin so be as

you have a favour to ask, you maun

take this for a

lucky bodement, and come your ways over to the vicarage in time to-morrow."

CHARMS OF TRAVELLING IN NORTH AMERICA.

An excursion through Connecticut, and part of Massachusets, afforded me an opportunity of observing the mode of travelling, and the accommodations on the road. In order to view the country at my leisure, I purchased a horse, which, with a tolerable bridle and saddle, cost me sixty dollars. Upon my new purchase I set out, before the break of day, from New London, in order to arrive at Norwich before the sun acquired his full power. After riding three hours, I stopped at a decent looking house, with a vile daub of General Washington for a sign, in order to feed my nag, which had ingratiated himself in my favour by this morning's performance, and to take breakfast. I was greatly surprised to see a hot beef-steak, swimming in grease and onions, brought upon the table; and still more so to find this substantial dish followed by another of fried eggs and bacon. My ride had sharpened my appetite, so

that the fume of these smoking dishes was by no means unpleasant. They remained upon the table till nearly cold, before a single person came into the room. My patience was exhausted-hunger drove away ceremony; I could no longer restrain its calls, and therefore commenced an attack, for the first time in my life, upon a clumsy beef-steak, at eight in the morning. I saw no appearance of tea or coffee, and concluded that I must make a dinner instead of a breakfast, but in a little time the room began to fill with country-looking people of both sexes, to my confusion-for I was stared at with looks not very prepossessing, till I observed, that being a stranger, in haste to pursue my journey, not knowing company were expected, and above all, the steak cooling, I had begun to eat. Very little notice was taken of my apology, but each followed my example, with stomachs not a whit less keen than my own, If, methought, looking round the table, and fixing my eyes upon a pretty girl, who was too deeply engaged with a plateful of eggs and bacon to notice me,—if you make a practice of breaking your fast thus, pretty damsel, you must surely be a maiden of the days of queen Bess, preferring "to such slip-slops as tea, the leg of an ox." A few days convinced me that this is the daily custom in the morning with this class of people, who must have something hot and substantial. Besides this fare, let me not forget to mention, we were served with some most detestable coffee. I wished for ale or porter after my steak, but was offered "Yankee rum," the most exc

crable spirit ever distilled; and at length I allayed my thirst with a glass of sour cyder.

Again mounted, I proceeded on my excursion till I came to a place where the road branched out in different directions; one of them was to be pursued, and confident that I could not miss the stage-road, I had made no minute enquiries, and not a soul appeared to direct me. After several minutes' consideration, I chose the wrong branch, and thus did not get under shelter till between two and three, greatly fatigued by the heat, and the length I had contrived to make the stage. On asking for dinner, I was roughly answered by the landlord that they had all dined long ago; and was about to make him understand that I had not; but before I could do so, he espied some swine in his garden, which the window overlooked, and upon this, ran roaring out the disaster, and left me to entertain myself as I pleased. In vain I might have waited his return, for I saw him very deliberately take a spade and begin to repair the disorder made among his cabbages. I now began to explore the house, but met not with a single individual till I reached the kitchen, where a girl was clearing away the fragments of the family dinner. The inmates had dispersed, as usual in America, immediately after a meal has been hastily dispatched, in several directions, and to their different avocations. To this maid of the kitchen I made known my wants, and though greatly out of humour, I was aware if I betrayed myself, my situation would not be mended. Assuming, therefore, a pleasant air, through the me

dium of a little flattery, I succeeded so far as to hear her express her concern that there was nothing for me to eat in the house. I pointed to some fowls scratching on the dunghill, and observed, that one of those, accompanied by a piece of bacon, might soon be converted into an excellent repast. The good creature took the hint, and in an instant twisted off the head of a fine chicken. To pass the time until the business of cooking was concluded, I returned to the stable to view the condition of my horse, who was still gaining favour with his new master, and I was determined to be gráteful by attending to his accommodations. The food they give horses here is the leaves of the Indian-corn stalk, which is a substitute for hay, and what Englishmen call a feed of oats and beans, is here half a gallon of the grain which grows upon that stalk. Thus, the whole food of a horse is produced from one single plant! but it is not so good as hay and oats. The corn is of so heating a nature, that an over-feed often founders the cattle, so as to render them unable to proceed on a journey. They are so fond of this grain, that they would eat to an excess, which would prove fatal; while the leaves are given them to use at pleasure. Thanks to the pigs, I saw nothing more of my landlord, and I afterwards found that, in this respect, I was very fortunate; these fellows in Connecticut being more troublesome to their guests, by prying into their business, than persons of any other description.

The land over which I this day rode was almost

all under cultivation. Every farm-house had a large orchard, from the produce of which they make cyder, and distil brandy. This is another vile spirit when new, and it is seldom suffered to acquire age in America. The people here are, however, more sober than in any other part of the United Statesindeed they rarely drink to intoxication, and thus they are enabled to export spirits to the southward.

Having made a good dinner, and being refreshed by two hours' sleep, a practice here in the after, noon with travellers, when they can spare time for such refreshment, I determined to proceed to Middletown, distant only a few miles. As the sun de clined, this part of my day's journey was delight. ful, through a fine cultivated country on the banks of the Connecticut. Could the English quick-thorn hedges have been added to the scene before me, I could have fancied myself travelling along the bye, roads of Kent. Crossing the ferry, I arrived in Middletown as the family of the inn were sitting down to supper. This meal in America is also very different from the usage of England. It is prepared and on the table between seven and eight o'clock, and consists of broiled salt fish, slices of ham, the relics of the dinner, and bread and butter, with coffee; and this is their last meal for the day, after which the female part of the family generally take a walk, or pay visits. To this recreation I was invited by two pretty daughters of the landlord, having, during supper, gratiffed them with the history of my movements, as usual; and by these means I avoided a

D