It is scarcely necessary to offer any arguments in proof of this; but if there should still be people who, by long custom (they can have no better motive), should wish to defend the piece in which they have played a part, let them explain - if anyhow they can- the merit of a system which is based on nothing but the deification of money. Since the Byzantines put gold and silver into pictures, and called it art, we have had no similar example of the adoration of mere glitter. Happily it is over; and if the Empire should get back - which is an eventuality not to be disregarded we may presume that it will not repeat the error, but will offer another model to its restored subjects.

But even the Empire did not crush out the true French woman; she lived through it, unaffected by examples; she maintained the old tradition in silent corners; she is coming out again in her ancient wisdom; she is once more ready to show Europe what a woman's dress ought to symbolize. Her principle always has been that the brightest forms, the most admirable results, are attainable by the simplest means, and that they are utterly independent of the fictitious splendours which bank-notes pay for. She has not abandoned the great theory that women should be women al

all the rules which ought to guide the has a momentary rush of extravagance, in choice of feminine costume. When all all its forms, exercised a worse influence, possible varieties of form had been ex- artistically, on those who were subjected hausted, the ladies of the period took up to it. colour, and if Germany had not intervened, they would soon have worn out colour too, and have had nothing left to choose from. The reaction which has now set in is against all colour; women are wearing tints which have no name, which never were real or fresh or true, but which still do not quite reach the tone which we design by "faded; "they are essentially" des couleurs provisoires," as Paris calls them, in sympathy with the sort of government which France just now possesses, neither Monarchy nor Republic, neither reality nor fiction, neither seed nor flower. It really is amusing to see dress thus fit itself to the accidents of politics. From respectable under Louis Philippe, it became noisy under the Empire, and has now turned to "provisional under M. Thiers. Whatever be its next stage, we may, at all events, be sure that it will never grow "definitive." Its essence is to change, not only with dynasties, but with all the passing fancies which caprice may set afloat. It is as well that it should be so, for if the fashions of the Empire had lasted, there would have been an end of all taste in France; such treatment would have suffocated it. It is true that the exact measure of the style of a period can scarcely be arrived at by contemporaries; prejudice and habit blind us too much to allow us to ex-ways; that when they drift to rowdiness ercise discriminating judgment on objects which surround us. We can recognize the superiority of the toilet of both men and women during the epoch which stretched from the thirteenth to the sixteenth Louis; we can all see how ungraceful dress was under the Valois, the Directory, and the First Empire; but we cannot form an equally sure opinion with reference to our selves, partly because we are accustomed to what we live with, partly because the differences which arise from year to year involve only modifications of detail, with no marked change of character or type. As yet, although we can only compare the details of different moments of our generation, we can, at all events, give a verdict on them between themselves, and can, within that limit, assign to the ephemeral fashions of the reign of Napoleon III. their little place in history. A detestably bad one it is. Rarely has the theory of dress assumed a less satisfactory expression than during those twenty years amongst the women who, whether we like it or not, we must take as typical of the time. Rarely

they lose their charm; that distinction is the one end worth struggling for. And here it should be noticed that distinction is not, necessarily, a pure gift of nature. Its noblest manifestations are, of course, dependent on physical conditions which no use of taste, however cunning, can thoroughly replace; but taste can do a vast deal to atone for corporeal insufficiencies, and, as regards dress alone, it is the one guide to perfectness. But taste, in this case, means wisdom, tact, and commonsense, as well as the able handling of form and colour. Taste means suitableness in everything in the choice of substances and shapes and tints which fit the social condition of the wearer as well as her personal aspect. It means not only the pursuit of a harmonious whole, but the diligent appropriation of all the smaller delicacies of detail which true women ought to practise, so that every element of their dress may support critical examination, so that no "faults of spelling" may be discovered by an investigating eye. And it means the realization of all this

with little money. This was what most Frenchwomen used to reach; this is what many of them have never forgotten; it is to this they are coming back. When they have done so thoroughly the world may safely copy them once more.

ought to be representative of herself. The main features of the dressing of the true Parisienne of the woman who is always charming, despite her empty purse are individuality, harmony, and finished detail.

To a woman of the middle class in It is very easy to talk about the process France dress involves an expenditure of in this loose way; but it is almost impos£60 a-year within that limit she can let sible to describe it accurately, especially her imagination travel; beyond it lie for- so as to enable others to try their hand at bidden things. Now, considering that £60 it. The end is peculiar to France. It is the price of one ordinary gown for cer- cannot be attained unless it be realized by tain other people, it is not easy to under- the imagination before it is produced mastand how Madame Somebody, whose hus-terially. To say “I will have a black silk band is a small barrister or a Government dress" is an abstract proposition, containclerk, who owns two children, and whose ing no sort of specific meaning beyond entire annual income is £440, can be got that which strictly belongs to the three up as she is. And yet she does it, and a words which form it. But to the true female vast number of her sort do it too, with mind the phrase a “black silk dress "is susidentical success. The result is seemingly ceptible of a thousand senses and of as many out of all proportion with the means, but associations, particularly to women who, that is only an optical illusion. The £60 both by pecuniary necessity and by perform but one element in the means; we do sonal disposition, do not stumble, haphaznot see the rest unless we look very closely ard, into their clothes, but carefully weigh for it; but when we have discovered the them out and use much comparison. supplementary sources of action which Their work is essentially one of choice contribute to the end produced, we are al- and calculation, restricted, of course, in most inclined to think that the £60 are a execution, by economy and by the accisuperfluity, and that the whole thing might dents of individual talent, but absolutely just as well be managed without any money limitless in general theory and idea. A at all. Amongst the many employments black silk dress may assume almost as of human ingenuity it would be difficult to many forms as sunset clouds can offer. It select one in which inventiveness, resolute is in selection between these forms-it is purpose, dexterity of handling, and espe- in the character and expression given to the cially utilization of the very smallest product that the idiosyncrasies of the chances, are set to work with more persist- wearer come to light, that the woman shows ence or more intelligence. There is assur- out herself, that the Parisienne stands edly no similar example of the victory alone. The gown, is however, but one elewhich cleverness can win in battle against ment of the whole the largest and most poverty. But triumph is attainable solely apparent, it is true, but not the most imby personal action; in such a struggle portant, for a cotton dress worth fifteen nothing can be delegated to others; the francs may speak up with equal power, and author must do everything herself-not, may proclaim with as loud a voice, the merit perhaps, the sewing, which is a merely me- of its author. The boots, the gloves, the chanical act, but the devising, the arrang- sash, the hat, the parasol, the linen above ing, the fitting, the ordaining, and, more all, subscribe more largely still to the tone than all, the organizing of the whole, so and type of a well-dressed woman: it is to that it may present unity of effect. Fur- them that the experienced eye turns curithermore, as Frenchwomen of the class we ously in order to determine the exact deare talking of are perpetually restoring gree of her perfection in this branch of their old clothes, and adapting them to new merit. No one who really knows and feels necessities, it is clear that no one else could what dress ought to imply will limit obser- serve them, for no one else knows what vation to a skirt; the dissection will be they possess. Their habit of directly gov- rapid but complete; it will extend to every erning their dress is not, however, pecu-detail-hands, feet, hair, and under-garliar to this or any other class. No French-ments, will each receive a scrutinizing woman who respects her own opinion will glance, and opinion will be formed on the allow herself to be guided by either a assemblage of them all, not on any single couturière or a femme-de-chambre. lets them cut and sew, but she originates herself, knowing, by her instinct, that in no other way can she make her toilet what it

She element. In Paris, and elsewhere in France, there are crowds of women who come out reproachless from these ruthless examinations, the reason being that they know be

forehand that they will be subjected to them, and prepare accordingly. It is not amongst cunning artists such as these that one sees jewels worn in the early morning, or gloves with holes in them, or stockings dangling round the ankles, twisted like the screw of a music-stool, or hanging helplessly like Turkish trousers. It is not they whose linen ever shows a stain, or who add coarse embroidery to their hidden vestments. Delicacy and fitness are their immediate means, harmony their object, charm their final end; and they reach it all.

to

middle of their chests; feathers, flowers, and lace in resolute confusion- really just like English women. Sins of this kind do not shock them: the poor creatures do not see them; they suppose it is all right, and have no qualms of conscience. And yet, next door to them, there may be one of those perfect models we were talking of just now - a model with no students and no admirers, like that rose we heard of in our youth, which wasted its sweetness on the desert air. This seems show that the faculty of rightly appreciating dress is either a natural gift or a reThese are true women in one of the sult of early teaching; anyhow, it is prob most feminine senses of the title- it is able that it is difficult to acquire it in afterthey who brighten up so many homes in life, unless in rare cases and under special France-it is they who of late years have circumstances of example and assistance. angrily resisted the barbarian onslaughts It shows also, that though the highest of money and bad taste it is they who types of dressing are to be found in France, have preserved unweakened the traditions they are not a necessary property of the of their mothers-it is to them that we entire nation. They must be regarded as now should look for teaching and example. developments of a special capacity under But they do not think of us; their field of favourable conditions, rather than as an inaction is indoors; they do not care for for- herent right. The better class of Frencheign imitators; their work is done for them- women have grown slowly, with each selves and their own children. Their girls other's help, to the height which they have grow up in contact with sound theories on now attained; their talent has become dress, in constant practice of the delicate transmissible to their children (Mr. Darscience of self-adornment, but with the win has not thought of that example of conviction that its highest truths lie in natural selection), but unequally and casimplicity, in the resolute avoidance of all priciously; they have not communicated violence, of all waste, of all unnecessary it to the whole crowd round them, and the outlay. At fourteen years old, those girls crowd remains incapable of imitation, or can cut out their own dresses; at ten they even of comprehension. It does not know can trim bonnets, and can hold forth how much a woman augments her power learnedly on the theory exhibited in their by a well-calculated use of carefully-selectmother's practice. Education such as this makes wonderfully handy women; they know how to use their fingers for pretty nearly everything. Skill in dress leads on to other skills; the sentiment of art in its personal application, opens out the mind to its larger teachings. Regarded from this point of view-which, though it may seem exaggerated to persons who hear of it for the first time, is incontestably sound -Dress acquires a new use; it ceases to be an exhibition of vanity, or of low-class ability; it takes its place amongst the useful elements of instruction; it helps women along the road to knowledge.

ed ornament, or how a mother can help her child to acquire the appreciation of shape and colour by the study of her daily dress.

Regarded as one of the occupations which ought to fill up women's time at home, the preparation of clothes is natural aad legitimate. All the world cannot be rich enough to pass its time in pleasure or in intellectual pastimes; the mass of us spend our lives with less money than we should like to have, and in a consequent constant effort to diminish our impecuniosity by our labour. Men trade and speculate, and do various other things for this end; But, alas! this pretty picture does not women, who, unless exceptionally, have no apply to everybody. It is so pleasant that direct power of earning cash, can only try it is particularly disagreeable to turn away to satisfy their longings by indoor work from it to the crowds of utterly incom- for their own account. Foolish people, petent, blind-eyed, ordinary people, who who think it beneath their grandeur to are so terribly abundant in French depart- make their own gowns and bonnets, are ments, who are incapable of comprehend- rare in France; there, even the richer ing the most elementary of the laws of fit- classes generally consider it to be a duty ness; who wear leather boots with a mus- to help themselves to some degree, and to lin dress; cameo brooches stuck in the know, at all events, how to sew.

But whether or not it be admitted that, of vapour, producing a temporary fear. the subject is susceptible of these acces- Bell cared least for these premonitions. sory merits, most of us will own that a She would not even cover herself with a well-dressed woman is an agreeable thing cloak. Many a time we could see rainto look at. We do not all agree as to drops glimmering in hér brown hair and what a well-dressed woman is, and there dripping from the flowers that she had is room for a very pretty quarrel between again twisted in the folds; but she sat the advocates of French and English erect and glad, with a fine colour in her views upon the matter; but the principle face that the wet breeze only heightened. remains unimpaired, even though its forms When we got up to Slyne and Bolton-leof realization are open to discussion. Even Sands, and came in sight of the long sweep in France itself, as we have seen, there has of Morecambe Bay, she paid no attention been a fight between two types; one of to the fact that all along the far margin of them is nearly suppressed at last, and the the sea the clouds had melted into a white other one is slowly regaining its old su- belt of rain. It was enough for her that premacy; but we English people, after all, the sun was out there, too; sometimes can regard it only as an admirable curi- striking with a pale silvery light on the osity we are incapable of imitating it, plain of the sea, sometimes throwing a for the same reason which prevents our stronger colour on the long curve of level learning how to cook our women cannot sand. A wetter or windier sight never met the view of an apprehensive traveller than that great stretch of sea and sky. The glimmer of the sun only made the moisture in the air more apparent as the grey clouds were sent flying up from the south-west. We could not tell whether the sea was breaking white or not; but the fierce blowing of the wind was apparent in the hurrying trails of cloud and the rapidly shifting shafts of sunlight that now and again shot down on the sands.

do it.

From Macmillan's Magazine. THE STRANGE ADVENTURES OF A

PHAETON.

BY WILLIAM BLACK, AUTHOR OF "A DAUGHTER
OF HETH," ETC.

"GALLOP apace, you fiery-footed steeds!"-that was the wish I knew lay deep down in Bell's heart as we went away from Lancaster. If Castor and Pollux did their work gallantly, we should sleep tonight in Kendal, and thereafter there would be abundant rest. This last day's journey consisted of thirty-three miles considerably above our average day's distance and we had accordingly cut it up into three portions. From Garstang to Lancaster is eleven miles; from Lancaster to Burton is eleven miles; from Burton to Kendal is eleven miles. Now Burton is in Westmoreland; and, once within her own county, Bell knew she was at home.

"Bell," said Tita with a little anxiety, you used to pride yourself on being able to forecast the weather, when you lived up among the hills. Don't you think we shall have a wet afternoon? - and we have nearly twenty miles to go yet."

The girl laughed.

"Mademoiselle acknowledges we shall have a little rain," said the Lieutenant, with a grim smile. If Bell was good at studying the appearances of the sky, he had acquired some skill in reading the language of her eloquent face.

forces of the rain-fiends drawn out in array against us. But that is nothing to Bell, so long as we enter Westmoreland.” "Ah, you shall see," remarks Bell; "we may have a little rain this evening."

"Why," says one of the party, "a deaf man down in a coal-pit could tell what 'Twas a perilous sort of day in which sort of afternoon we shall have. The wind to approach the region of the Northern is driving the clouds up. The hills are Lakes. In the best of weather, the great stopping them on the way. When we enmass of mountains that stand on the mar-ter Westmoreland we shall find the whole gin of the sea ready to condense any moist vapours that may float in from the west and south, play sudden tricks sometimes and drown the holiday makers whom the sun has drawn out of the cottages, houses, and hotels up in the deep valleys, But here there were abundant clouds racing and chasing each other like the folks who sped over Cannobie Lea to overtake the bride of young Lochinvar; and now and again the wind would drive down on us the flying fringes of one of these masses

66

Yes, that is very likely," said the Lieutenant, who seemed greatly tickled by this frank admission.

"But to-morrow, if this strong wind keeps up all night, would you be astonished to find Kendal with its stone houses all shining white in the sun?"