the original number; the missing two are said to have been figures of Cromwell and Ireton, destroyed at the Restoration. They stand about a

foot in height, and represent the different soldiers of the army from the fifer and drummer to the captain, and originally to the commanders. They

are curious for more reasons than one; their locality, their truthfulness, their history, and the picture they help us to realise of the army of Cromwell are all so many claims on our attention.

THE TOMB OF JOHN STOW.

ARE OLD LONDON! We pass with a gaze of chilled astonishment along the interminable lines of neatly reddened or stuccoed houses which, like the web of the spider, cross, and fret, and disturb at every step. Truly, those who dwell in modern tenements must put great trust in Providence, for they can have none in brick and mortar. Such things! Puff! We fancy we could blow them down; they will never live long enough to tell a story; they grow green, not grey, with age; and when in a humour for substantials,' it is indeed a pleasure to get away from them into the city, where the dwellings of old times were built to endure, and where enduring memories Of all the time-honoured names associated with the antiquities of London there is none in which we so much delight as that of JOHN STOW; we feel grateful for the hours passed with so much profit and pleasure in his society, in traversing with him the lanes, and streets, and alleys-visiting the old churches (least changed of all) and contemplating the beauty of the monuments contained therein. Much as we owe him for the storehouse of antiquarian riches he bequeathed to such as desire to learn from the past what may be expected from the future, we

hang around them.

owe still more to the earnest and honest example of the simple and singleminded old pilgrim, who was entirely devoid of all love of display, without ostentation, without an aim to achieve aught but TRUTH-which, next to his GOD, he worshipped; humble-minded as to himself, and desirous of means, not for the indulgence of luxury, but that he might finish what he had begun, in the fear of God, and to the Glory of the city of London.

The days we have spent in turning over his interesting survey of his favourite City* and Westminster, until the shades of evening reminded us that we had been, with what might be called (despite its present living multitudes), a city of the dead! None of those senseless ones who sneered at his occupation are abroad now, nor of those, near to him in blood, but far

The general aspect of the City of London from the bridge eastward to the Tower, may be seen in the annexed engraving, as it appeared in the year 1589. The principal feature is Old London Bridge, the only roadway at this time over the Thames between London and Southwark. This bridge was the especial glory of Londoners; and all the older writers speak of it in the most rapturous terms. In the edition of Abraham Ortelius's Epitome of the Theatre of the Worlde, published in London by James Shaw in 1603, its praises conclude the sum total of Great Britain's glories, when speaking of the Ancient and flourishing famous cittie of London, which, as wel for beautie, riches and trade, is not inferior, but equal with the best citties of Europe. The river of Thames is beautefied with statelye pallaces built on the side thereof, moreover a sumptuous bridge, sustayned upon nineteen arches with excellent and beauteous housen built thereon.' Times have indeed changed since this was written; when the nineteen arches were gloried in, which formed the strongest argument in our own time for its demolition. The fortified gate seen on the Southwark side of the bridge, was known as the Traitor's Gate; and above it were exhibited the heads of those who had suffered for treason the reader will perceive several stuck upon poles above the eastern tower. Here it was that the head of Sir Thomas More was placed; and afterwards when about to be cast into the Thames, was purchased by his daughter Margaret Roper, and piously buried in a leaden case in the family vault in St. Dunstan's Church, Canterbury, where it still reposes. This entrance to London was defended by a portcullis and a draw-bridge beyond. The stack of houses beyond that formed a second Southwark gate and tower, which was finished in 1579, and it consisted of four circular turrets, connected by curtains and surmounted by battlements, containing a great number of transom casements; beneath was a broad covered passage, the building projecting considerably over each side of the bridge. It was a noble and ornamental structure, but the most splendid and curious building which adorned London Bridge at this time, was the famous Nonesuch House, so called because it was constructed in Holland, entirely of wood, and being brought over in pieces, was erected in this place with wooden pegs only, not a single nail being used in the whole fabric. It is the next building seen in our view with central and side towers, and was most elaborately carved and painted. For further information on this structure, we must refer the reader to Mr. Thomson's learned and curious volume, The Chronicles of London Bridge.

from him in heart, who disturbed him day and night with unfounded accusations-nor of those young buoyant spirits who cried aloud in the streets, or made rare sport, which joyed the old man's heart to hear, though it might break his meditations. Did we not say, truly, that we were wandering through a city of the dead? How have we gone over, thought by thought, the traits given in these cumbrous volumes of the olden time! The curious memory of Smithfield, originally Smoothefield, both in name

6

Old London Bridge.

and deed' where, save on Holy Fridays,' earls, barons, knights, and citizens repaired to see or buy ambling horses, pacing it delicately; or trotters, fit for men-at-arms, riding more hardily; or boys racing one horse against another, with a desire of victory or a hope of praise. And old Stow loved well to quote whatever redounded to the honour of his glorious city. Thus, from old Fitz-Stephen, he gives his eulogy thereon- Ancienter than Rome, built by the ancient Trojans and by Brute, before that was built by Romulus and Remus, and, therefore, useth the ancient customs of Rome. This city, even as Rome, is divided into wards. It hath,' he continues, glowing with enthusiasm, it hath yearly sheriffs instead of consuls; it hath the dignity of senators in aldermen; it hath under-officers;

common sewers and conduits in streets: according to the quality of causes, it hath general courts, and assemblies upon appointed days. I do not think there is any city wherein are better customs.'* And then, after enumerating their customs, he continues, The only plagues of London are immoderate quaffing among the foolish sort, and often casualties by fire.' How pleasantly does Stow enumerate the changes which had taken place

Cheapside Cross.

since the Chronicle was written, and which he considers improvements. He tells us how 'the skinners dwell in Budge Row, instead of in St. Mary Pollipers; how the vintners. have moved from the Vine Tree into divers places;' but that the brewers, for the most part, remain near to the friendly waters of the Thames;' how 'the poulterers have gone from the Poultry, between the stocks and the great conduit in the Cheap, t into Grass Street and St. Nicholas' Shambles;' and the Paternoster bead-makers and

text-writers are gone out of Paternoster Row, and are called stationers of

The elder London antiquaries were true men, hearty lovers of their city, proud of it as the focus of England's greatness. Their enthusiasm is pleasant to read. Stow never let slip a chance of lauding his London; and William Camden, in his Remaines, did the same by his native country generally. His hearty, sterling English feeling makes him speak of his countrymen as this warlike, victorious, stiff, stout and vigorous nation;' of his country as 'walled and guarded by the sea, with safe havens, so that it may be termed the lady of the sea; of the air as 'most temperate and wholesome,' and of the language as a selection of the best qualities of all others, gathering the honey of their good qualities, and leaving the dregs to themselves. How then can the language, which consisteth of all these, sound other than full of sweetness ?'

The Cheapside Cross and Conduit are exhibited above, from Le Serre's engraving, representing the entry into London of the queen mother Mary de Medicis to visit her