sheathing lath; this coat is scratched to a rough surface and. allowed to dry. The second coat of mortar is the same as that used for the first coat except that the hair is omitted; this coat is troweled down to a smooth surface. The last coat, called the rough cast or dash, is mixed and applied in the same manner as in Canadian practice, previously described. This coat is necessarily thin and should finish flush with the grounds, that the open timber staves or battens may be put on without unnecessary scraping of the plaster surface. The dash coat may be colored any desired tint by the admixture of mortar colors. Care should be taken, however, in the selection of these colors, for Venetian red and some other earthy colors fade in a short time and present a dingy or sickly appearance. Metallic oxide and copperas green are permanent colors, and when mixed with lampblack in different proportions a variety of tints may be obtained. It should be remembered that colored mortar does not dry out the same tint as it shows while in a liquid state, and before the amount of color to be used is decided on, several samples should be mixed up and allowed to dry, in that way determining the amount of color to use.

For the inspection of this work, the same general suggestions as those given for inside plastering will apply, and any further remarks are perhaps unnecessary.

SUPERINTENDENCE OF THE BRICKWORK.

103. Chimney Breasts.-The chimney breasts in the kitchen and laundry are to be faced with white enameled brick; a segmental brick arch is turned over the opening, and the springing line is at a point 5 feet 6 inches above the finished floor. The jamb corners are rectangular and the corners around the opening are rounded, or "bull nose,” and a polished white-marble corbel on each side supports a 3-inch polished marble shelf. The enameled brickwork in the laundry is carried up 5 feet high and finished with a

polished white-marble lintel 9 inches high, having a 4-inch beaming on the beds and anchored to the body of the chimney with bronze anchors. The superintendent should inspect this work carefully, to see that the face brick is properly laid and bonded, that the joints are all uniform in thickness, that the marble corbels are properly set, anchored to the chimney, and leveled up to receive the shelf, and that a perfectly tight joint is made between the brick and the range so that no cracks or openings are left to collect dirt or harbor vermin; he should also take particular notice that no damaged or chipped brick is used in this work.

The size of the flues is determined beforehand and shown on the drawings, so that the superintendent need only see that they are built to the requisite size, carried up plumb, and the withes, shown at a, Fig. 12, are mitered with the stretchers at least in every sixth course. It is not an easy matter to watch this work, as, in order to see that it is done, the superintendent would have to stand over the men constantly; he must therefore trust to the honesty of the workmen, as no evidence of the bonding will appear on the surface of the chimney. The fireplaces, which are to be faced with tile, are formed roughly during the construction of the chimneys; those faced with brick are finished at once, and the face brick is protected, with boards or otherwise, until it is required to set the mantels.

Two wrought-iron bars, in. X2 in., turned up on the ends, are built in each chimney above the fireplace opening, as no reliance should be placed on the arch to support the work above. The splay of jambs should be determined by the style and size of grate, if any is to be used, and if no grate is used the splay may vary, but should never be more than 8 inches in a depth of 12 inches. The back of the fireplace should be built up plumb six or eight courses, and then corbeled forward to form the throat from 2 to 4 inches wide, according to the nature of fuel used and the size of the fireplace. No matter how well built the chimney may be, all should be plastered on the outside, except where faced with a good coat of lime and cement mortar, to

prevent the possible escape of sparks through a defective or improperly filled joint.

104. Chimneys.-The brick courses in the chimneys at the roof line are to be stepped as shown on the detail drawings; the mason shall procure from the coppersmith the apron flashings and build them into the work. The chimneys above the flashing lines are to be built of rough-pointed limestone, well bonded together at each course with bronze cramps; the flue linings to be carried up and the space between them and the chimney filled with Vicat cement. The chimney caps are to be cut in one piece, and the flue holes cut through to exactly the same size as the inside of the flue lining. The superintendent should inspect every piece of ashlar entering into this work, and see that they conform to the specifications in every respect, especially as to thickness, and that they are all cramped and bonded together. The tall chimneys are to be tied back to the roof with 1-inch brass bars, having a nut and washer on the inside and a shoulder welded on to the outside against the chimney; the other end of the rod is flattened and turned up to conform to the angle of the roof, to which it is secured with wrought-iron bolts; these bolts should be put up at the proper time and the roof end covered with lead flashing.

105. Trap Pits.-Trap pits are to be built for the reception of service-pipe fittings, such as valves, traps, etc., that such fittings may be accessible should it be required to disconnect any pipe or make repairs. Footing stones, 2 feet wide and 6 inches thick, are laid at the required depth, and the walls built 8 inches thick, of common brick, laid in Portland cement mortar. The dimensions are given on the working drawings and the superintendent should see that they are built to the proper dimension and levels and located as required. The laying of the brick and the concrete bottom should be watched, that a water-tight job will result; the setting of the flagstone covers is described under "Flagging."

The main lines of sewer and water and gas supply should

all be laid underground at the proper grade, and the traps, fresh-air inlets, etc. on the sewer, and all valves and connections, attached complete. These pipes should then be tested before the trenches are filled in. The electric conduits are then laid at a uniform depth of about 3 feet below the surface-the mason meanwhile building up the manholes-and the electric feed wires having been laid between the manholes, the space around each pipe and conduit in the brick walls is sealed with neat Portland cement mortar. Provision should be made for a controlling switch on the main electric feed wire. The specifications require that all iron pipe and fittings in the manholes shall be cleaned off and coated with

FIG. 34.

asphalt paint. Nothing need be added here to the instructions for inspecting the calking of joints and the quality of the fittings. The fresh-air inlet to the trap on the sewer main at the manhole at the entrance gate is to have offsets

with obtuse-angled bends, and the pipe terminates at a point 12 inches above grade, and in the pocket cut in the check block of the gate post. The gas and electric supply for the lamp also passes through this pocket, the opening in the stonework being covered by a perforated brass plate, set flush with the face of the stonework, as shown in Fig. 34.

SUPERINTENDENCE OF THE PLUMBING, ETC.

106. Pipes.-The next work of importance on the premises, and, in fact, the work requiring the most critical supervision in regard to material and workmanship, is that of putting in the branch waste, vent, and supply pipes from the rising lines to the various fittings.

The lead pipes should be inspected to make sure that they are of the proper weight per foot. The end of each coil is generally stamped with a letter or number denoting the weight; for that reason it is best to inspect the pipe before it is cut for use.

It is a well known fact that water containing certain foreign matter, and especially soft water, will attack lead pipe, and if the water is under heavy pressure there is a possibility of the pipe bursting, unless of extra thickness. Where a first-class job is the main object in view, it is best to use seamless drawn brass tubing, tinned inside and out, the cost over that of lead pipe being very slight. In the case under consideration, the main water-supply pipe to the under side of the first-story floor of the main building and up to the fixtures at other points on the premises, including hot-water piping, shall be of tinned scamless brass pipes of the diameter specified; all the fittings for the supply pipes to be of the same material and finish as the pipes.

The superintendent should examine all the material critically and follow the work of fitting it together, that the joints are set in red lead, provided with all the valves and fittings requisite, and graded to an outlet as specified. Where brass or copper piping without an outer plating