nets are tied down on the left side beneath the chin. The silk hats and bonnets have low crowns; when flowers are worn in hats, they are in branches, disposed in half-wreaths. All the hats are placed very backward, and a deep blond or a veil is almost always adopted; the manner in which the modern hats fly off the face, renders such an addition requisite. There have appeared lately some heavy-looking large bonnets, entirely of fancy straw, with bows of the same, instead of riband: we do not regret that we see more of these in the shop-windows, than on the heads of our lovely countrywomen. The small gleaner's hat à la Lavinia, has been seen on the heads of some females of high distinction, particularly in out-door deshabille; this hat may be styled a national hat, like the cottage bonnets so long in favour. These hats are usually of fine Leghorn, and are lined with blue or rosecolor; a bow of the same tint is all the ornament affixed to the left side of the riband which surrounds the crown, and strings tie it down over a cornette of blond.

A lady of fashion, lately married, has, among a great number of very elegant dresses, one of fine India muslin exquisitely embroidered; the border of the dress is trimmed with one very deep flounce of broad lace. A dress of figured tulle, with splendid trimmings of broad blond of a large and rich pattern, is intended for the bride's first appearance at dress evening parties.

Painted India taffeta and black blond dresses are expected to prevail at the decline of the autumn; the latter are exceedingly elegant and becoming, when worn over peach satin, spring-green, pink, or jonquil; but in our opinion, especially when the pattern of the blond is particularly handsome, they look best over white satin. For demi-parure, and for afternoon home costume, dark dresses of gros de Naples are now much in favour; they are ornamented at the border with two very broad bias folds; the body, en gerbe, is made partially low: the sleeves are in the gigot shape, and on distinguished females, by no means so wide as those now in general wear. Morning dresses are of printed muslin, or of chintz; they are made in the form of the wrapping pelisse. Some ladies, who have been confined by indisposition, have, when convalescent and able to receive friendly visits, these pelisses, made of white jaconot

muslin, trimmed with Valenciennes lace. The gowns are full, and very short; they are plaited in at the waist, with equal fulness all round. There is nothing novel in the ball dresses; white seems most pre dominant, either in tulle or India muslin.

Young ladies in general appear with their own hair well-dressed, without any ornament. It is difficult to determine which is the most prevalent mode of arranging the tresses: it is en tire-bonchons, à l'Enfant, or à la Madonna, though less in the last style. Dress hats of white crape are much admired, with white feathers.

Though the caps are rather too large, they are beautiful and very becoming; the blond of which they are composed is excessively broad and rich. They are turned quite back from the face at the border, and branches of full-blown roses, and other bright flowers, lie partly on the hair, and partly against the erect border. Long lappets of broad colored riband float over the shoulders. The berets and toques remain nearly as they were in the last month; they are composed of richly figured white gauze, and are ornamented either with short feathers or bouquets of field-flowers.

The colors most admired are amber, sea-green, blue, slate color, pink, and jonquil.

MODES PARISIENNes.

WRAPPING pelisses, named à la maitresse, are in high favour among the merveilleuses, for the morning walks. They are often of printed muslin, the ground blue; they are finished at the throat by a double falling collar of muslin, one laid in a great number of small plaits, the other in flutings. Pelisses and clokes are now becoming very general; the pelisses are made, with long loose sleeves which are open all the way down the length of the arm, and then closed at separate distances, by a double row of gold buttons, small and beautifully wrought.

The bonnets in the English fashion continue to be worn; they are generally of straw. The new bonnets and hats are of satin, and have puffs of the same, mingled with alternate bows of striped gauze riband. The brims of the bonnets are very long in front. Hats of gros de Naples and of colored crape, have all, on the top of the crown, from right to left, a long branch of flowers inclining toward the brim: on the opposite side are bows of gauze riband, notched at the edge, and

bound round with spotted satin. At a late sitting of the Institut was a hat of blue gros de Naples, having on the left side a very long white feather, attached to the top of the crown by a large bow of six loops. The same kind of bow, in green, was seen on a Leghorn hat, which appeared to fasten two long white feathers. There are some hats of straw and rosecolored riband interwoven. They are trimmed with apple blossoms and pink, gauze. When bonnets of gros de Naples are trimmed with the same material, the ornaments are stiffened with straw concealed beneath the silk. The hats, named bonnet-hats, fly very much off the face; under, and above the brim, they are adorned with rouleaux of riband, bows, and flowers.

Dresses of rose-colored organdy are very fashionable; they are trimmed with fringe of the same color, at the head of a broad hem as high as the knee. Some of these dresses display the color of the marshmallow blossom: these are worked in crewels in vine-leaves, with clusters of grapes; the leaves are green, the grapes white. The white organdy dresses are now chiefly embroidered in colors. Jaconot muslins and figured barêge are favorite materials for half-dress; most of these are ornamented with fringe. Dresses of fine India muslin, with a border in gold embroidery, are often seen at full-dress balls. The corsage and sleeves are finished with the same embroidery, as are the drapery sleeves à la seduisante, which, fastened in front by a single gold button, depend gracefully

Dresses of slate

from the shoulders. colored gros de Naples are reckoned in good taste; they are beautifully trimmed with fringe of the same hue, the head of which is wrought in open work. Among the clear muslin dresses we observe one which takes its name from a new romance, Fragoletta; the pattern its green foliage, with a small red wood-strawberry either on white or a very light-coloured ground. Several ball-dresses have been seen ornamented at the border, as high as the knee, with oak-leaves in velvet.

Dress hats are of white crape, with plumes-boiteuses, white and cherry-colored. A hat was seen at Tivoli of white chip, with the crown quartered in six points: these were bound with lilac satin to mark out the seams; the edge of the brim also was bound with lilac, and two very long feathers, half white, half lilac, finished the ornaments. Very broad ribands are now used in the trimming of blond caps; they are so broad that they take three rows of wired riband, to keep the puffs or bows in shape; flowers in wreaths conceal this stiffening. At the back of these caps is a bow from which depend long streamers. At balls, a favorite head-dress is a wreath of vine-leaves, or other green foliage, interspersed with winter-cherries. The hair is dressed high: it exhibits two braids across the forehead, and three puffs or bows at the top of the head. It is frequently adorned with a wreath of wheat-ears, corn-poppies, and blue corn-flowers, and at the summit is a small wheat-sheaf.

BIRTHS.

LADY'S

RETROSPECTIVE NOTICES AND INCI

DENTAL REMARKS.

In the summer of 1826, one of my father's old friends, indeed a relative of our family, who had recently returned from India, came to dine at our accustomed place of residence in the metropolis. Nothing could equal his surprise at the great alterations in our immediate vicinity, that had taken place during his absence." London," said he, "at least this part of it, is so unlike what it was, when I left it about thirty years ago, that, had I been unexpectedly set down in this street, and left to find my way according to my recollections of old localities, I should no more have known how to steer my course for any given point, than if I had been so circumstanced in Rome, Paris, or Vienna, places that I have never seen in my life. So many new buildings must indicate an increase of inhabitants, and suck fine ones an increase of wealth. How does this suit the theory of Mr. Malthus, or the dismal stories which have been transmitted to me of want and misery following in the train of a too redundant population in my native land? I was told that our country was shaking from her encumbered lap thousands upon the distant shores of her colonial possessions: how is this? it passes my powers of comprehension: can you explain it to me?"*" Not I," said my

This passage is loosely expressed. It certainly does not suit the theory of Malthus, that an augmentation of wealth should follow an increase of population; but it ought not to excite surprise, or to VOL. X.

father, who is a plain man, and hates long discussions. "I have never studied political economy, and never read the work of Malthus; but the matter of fact seems to be, that the more there are who go away, the better will those be able to live that remain behind;-and, if paupers be sent to keep themselves in another country, we shall be the richer for not having to keep them at home.”—Mr. Raymond smiled, and dropped the conversation; but, after dinner, it was renewed over our wine.-"I have only seen one other spot in the country," said Mr. R. "that is so much changed as this in so short a period; and that was the first shore on which I landed after we reached Spithead. "Do you remember," said he, addressing my father, "when you and I spent a week together at a little inn in the Isle of Wight-when the ship in which I took my passage out was detained by contrary winds, so long after I joined her before we actually sailed for India."-" Do I?" said my father, his face brightening almost into glee at the recollection:-to be sure I recollect ou stay at Ryde; aye, that was a pleasant time to both of us, though it was followed by a little gloom on our parting for the first time in our lives, after having

be incomprehensible, that a redundance of those who

consume the means of subsistence in one country should induce a great number to seek comfort in another. The speaker in the dialogue, indeed, seems to mean that this emigration does not agree with the supposed increase of wealth; but he might have considered that great capitalists, speculators, and land-holders, may augment their opulence, while poverty is the general lot.-EDIT. 3 T

been brought up together. We were merry light-hearted lads then, Raymond; and indeed our lives have had nothing very sharp in them since to sober us down: Fortune has not been a niggard to us in her favors."-"Our stars have been favorable, it must be admitted," observed Mr. Raymond: then recurring to their stay at Ryde, they talked over old feats and frolics and reminiscences, until, aided by their wine, they became almost as lively as they had been in the early days to which they referred."Aye, we were young then," said my father, turning to me, and putting on a grave face in perfect contrast to the spirit of dormant glee, awakened by these allusions; 66 we were young and foolish, Charles; but you are to forget all this, young man," he added, laughing, "for I ought not to present my former self to my son in such undignified features or proportions. I dare say you always supposed that I was born as grave and sedate as you are accustomed to see me." Now my father, though verging upon the age of sixty, was by no means remarkable for gravity and sedateness; he was the most cheerful agreeable man of his age that I ever knew; but, as to suspecting him of all the frolicsome tricks which these recapitulations of his young days unfolded to me, I must say that such an idea would never have presented itself to my mind.

"And so Ryde is no longer the little inconsiderable village we knew it," said my father after these discussions had ceased, and when Mr. Raymond had amused us all with a particular description of that fashionable watering-place in its improved state." And so it really has swelled into magnitude, and become the beautiful spot you paint it. Well, the situation was highly favorable, it must be allowed, and the air salubrious. I should like to see it again and in your company, Raymond: you say you have taken lodgings there for your family. I have a great mind to return thither with you."

We had adjourned to the drawing room before this description was given, and the ladies were present when my father expressed this inclination. My sister Mary, who by the way is always ready for a jaunt, cast a look full of hope and pleasure at her parent, who was by no means sorry to see the little excursion he had planned so warmly seconded by Mary's heart and imagination,

as every look of her beseeching face indicated.-"Nothing would give me greater pleasure," replied Mr. Raymond; "but I fear I am under the necessity of going so early as to-morrow."-"It is a very short notice, brother," my aunt Eleanor began to say; and something too she seemed to suggest to Mary about dresses and bonnets." Oh, never mind all that, aunt," cried Mary; "I don't in the least care about dresses; only let us go."-I was as much disposed as Mary to acquiesce in the scheme; so the next day we set off, Mary and I in my dennet, and the elderly people in a close carriage behind it, choosing the rear probably that they might have ocular demonstration from time to time that my Jehu-ship was performed with all due regard to steadiness and safety, perhaps not placing quite so much confidence in my skill as, in my pride of coachmanship, I am apt to think it deserves.

A journey at the present day is so little a matter of adventure, that it is impossible in a general way to make any thing more of it than an ordinary occurrence, a common-place sort of thing, without incident or interest; for such are the facilities which modern roads and vehicles afford, that a man may shut his eyes in London and open them at Portsmouth, hardly conscious that he has slept away a distance which our forefathers would have well considered before they exposed themselves to the risque of such a journey; for they even deemed it expedient to make their wills, and settle their affairs, before they undertook an adventure of so much danger and importance. But the water presented what was to us at that time a novelty, which we were impatient to see and to try. A steam-vessel we had never be held, and we entered it full of expectation, and (to own the truth) a little trepidation also.

Nothing could be more amusing than the scene which the crowded deck of the steamer presented, when we had leisure to observe it, and had satiated ourselves with smoke and steam. Here were varieties of costume and manners, shades and inflections of character, interesting to the satirist, and even to the ordinary observer; and some individuals who were near me gave me infinite amusement to watch their motions, to speculate upon what they were and had been, and divine their objects and destinations.