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Mr. Truitt's duties are mainly directed to the oversight of the spinning department.

Although distinctly engrossed in his industrial establishment, yet Mr. Dolan has many other business interests, and is officially connected with a number of commercial and public enterprises. He is president of the Quaker City Dye-Works Company, president of the Philadelphia Association of Manufacturers of Textile Fabrics, president of the Textile Dyers Association, vice-president of the National Association of Wool Manufacturers, vice-president of the Union League Club, trustee of the Pennsylvania Museum of Industrial Art, and director in the following-named corporations: Merchants' National Bank, Delaware Mutual Insurance Company, United Gas Improvement Company, Brush Electric Light Company, Philadelphia Traction Company, the School of Design for Women, and the University Hospital.

The Hinckley Knitting-Mills, of Germantown, owe their foundation to Aaron Jones, an Englishman, who came to this country in 1830, and in 1832 set up two old-fashioned knitting frames, thus commencing in a small way the manufacture of shirts, drawers, and woolen hosiery. His son Aaron followed the father's emigration, and was employed as a salesman of the goods. In 1834 the machinery was disposed of to Thomas R. Fisher, proprietor of the Wakefield Mills, Fisher's Hollow, Germantown, and Aaron Jones, the son, became the manager of the mills. He continued to manage the Wakefield Mills with great energy and sagacity, and with entire satisfaction to the proprietor, until 1840, when he retired, and commenced business on his own account. He started with two knittingmachines, in a small mill and house combined, which was the germ of the present establishment. In 1866 his three sons,-Thomas, Aaron, Jr., and John E.,were taken into partnership, and they have since managed the establishment. The firm-name is now Aaron Jones' Sons, and they employ 200 persons.

Thomas Thompson commenced the manufacture of upholstery goods and cabinet findings, in 1838, at No. 134 Dock Street. The establishment is the first of its kind in the United States. In 1862, Mr. Thompson associated with himself two of his sons, Thomas M. and Lewis A., who, with Washington Nicholson, composed the firm of Thomas Thompson, Sons & Co. Every article which enters into the manufacture of cabinet-ware, cars, carriages, and undertakers' profession, are produced in the establishment. Formerly all their goods were imported, but at the present time, and to a great extent owing to the enterprise and energy of this firm, the American fabrics are finding their way all over the country.

The manufacture of hosiery was commenced by Martin Landenberger in 1843. His business steadily increased until 1847, when the financial panic, which ruined so many others, enabled him to purchase a considerable quantity of wool at very low figures, which, when trade revived, permitted him to extend

his works even more prosperously than before. In 1849, his business demanding more extensive quarters, he occupied a new building containing eighteen rooms. In 1856 he removed to the present site in Germantown. His two sons, Martin and Charles, with Charles Wyler, were admitted to the concern.

The Leicester Knitting-Mills originated in 1843, through the efforts of Charles Spencer, who that year in a garret on Main Street, Germantown, commenced operations. In 1846 he removed to the site of St. Stephen's Methodist Episcopal Church, and in 1848 to the flour-mill of Wyndham H. Stokes, on Mill Street, where he remained until 1850, when he erected the mill on Cumberland Street. Mr. Spencer, the father of the founder, was the superintendent of the works until his death, in 1863. Charles, the founder, was sole proprietor until 1857, when his brother William was admitted, and the style became Charles Spencer & Co. In 1867, Charles Poulson was admitted to the firm, and in 1868, Robert S. Spencer became a partner. William G. Spencer retired in 1869, and Charles H. was admitted in 1870.

The manufacture of worsted and woolen yarns was begun in 1847, by Benjamin Schofield, in the second story of a mill at Twenty-first and Hamilton Streets, employing twelve hands and turning out one hundred thousand pounds of yarn. He continued these for three years, and in 1850 removed to a factory at West Manayunk. Two sons, Benjamin, Jr., and John, were admitted into the concern, which continued under the style of B. Schofield & Sons until 1857, when the senior retired, and the firm-name became B. Schofield, Jr., & Brother. Another mill, contiguous to the first, was built in 1872. In 1874, Edward F. Mason was admitted into partnership, and the name was changed to Schofield, Mason & Co.

The manufacture of military trimmings, regalia, and theatrical goods was commenced by William G. Mintzer, at 131 North Third Street, in 1834, and was continued by him until his death, in 1870. His executors offered the establishment for sale, and the entire concern was purchased by R. M. Robinson and C. A. Hart, who formed a copartnership of R. M. Robinson & Co., and operated the business for a year, when Clarence A. Hart purchased the entire interest of his partner, and became the sole proprietor of the business.

The " narrow textile fabrics," commonly called small wares, and known on the continent of Europe as passamenteries, are largely manufactured in Philadelphia. Trimmings, embracing so much in a lady's vocabulary, and extending even to men's wear and to their carriages and beds, are in this country often all manufactured by the same parties, notwithstanding the different uses to which the articles may be applied. "Ladies' dress trimmings," as a distinctive branch, is of comparatively late date in the United States. Military goods and carriage-laces come under this branch of textile fabrics. These goods are manu

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factured in Philadelphia in over thirty establishments. Turkish and Axminster carpets was begun in 1791, in the Northern Liberties, by William Peter Sprague, who wove a national pattern with a device representing the crest and armorial achievements pertaining to the United States. John Dorsey, in 1807, was manufacturing carpets in Philadelphia which were considered equal to the best imported." In 1830 every description of carpeting made in Europe was produced in this country, and of a quality nearly equal to the imported; and this manufacture has continued to grow and increase in extent of production and beauty and variety of style until the country is nearly independent of all European competition.

That of William H. Horstmann & Sons, established in 1815, was in its infancy confined to the manufacture of coach-laces and fringes, but since that has embraced a wide circle of fabrics. In 1824 the founder, W. H. Horstmann, introduced from Germany the plaiting or braiding machines, and the next year the Jacquard machines. The fancy taffeta bonnet-ribbons of this establishment received the highest praise at the exhibition of the Franklin Institute in 1852. The manufacture of these goods was commenced by J. C. Graham in 1850, and are carried on by Henry W. Hensel, Fisher & Evans, J. B. Cornet, and many others. Sewing silk, singles, tram, and organzine are manufactured at many establishments, the oldest in date being that of B. Hooly & Son. F. S. Hovey, since 1843, has been engaged in this industry.

There were, in 1880, 151 establishments manufacturing hosiery and knit-goods in operation, employ ing 100 engines (of 2568 horse-power); power-knitters (circular heads), 7886; balmorals, 441; rib-top frames, 813; sachets and gloves, 189; broad frames, 445; sewingmachines, 2184; hand-knitters, 587,-producing in dozens per week: hosiery, 279,120; fancy articles, 20,870; gloves, 5100; and sachets, 5270.

The investigation of the manufacture of textile fabrics in Philadelphia, made by Lorin Blodget, exhibits the following census returns of the number of establishments and the value of hosiery made in each of the last three census years, as follows:

1850........ 1860......

1870...........

Establish

ments. Product.
$561,557
2,114,315
5,368,736

103
76

A more careful classification for 1870, made for Philadelphia alone, gave the following:

Cotton hosiery....

Cotton and woolen mixed....
Woolen and worsted...

Total..................

Establish

ments. Product.
$1,499,635

27

14

34

75 $5,938,950

This Mr. Blodget considered "undoubtedly short by a considerable amount in value, and omitted nearly half the domestic manufactures; yet the greatest growth of this industry has taken place during the last ten years, increasing the number of establishments more than half, and more than doubling the total production." This opinion was confirmed by the census of manufactures taken in June, 1883, by which it was ascertained that the hosiery and knitgoods establishments numbered 95, employing 8306 operatives, and producing $8,173,415 of value annually.

The census of 1860 showed 124 establishments engaged in this manufacture, with an aggregate capital of $882,625. The raw material annually used was valued at $1,393,771, giving employment to 1925 males and 755 females, and producing an annual value of $2,915,618. In 1870 the establishments had increased to 244, the aggregate capital to $3,341,000; the value of raw material annually used to $5,675,697; the number of males employed to 3458, and that of females to 1253; and the value of the annual production to $10,191,784. Lorin Blodget, reviewing the census of 1870, says, "The carpet manufacture has an organized association, and its great advantages in the last five years can be definitely stated. The increasing use of the class most largely made here has taken the entire production as promptly as it could be offered, most of the trade being from the manufacturers direct to western consumers. Large establishments for the manufacture of Brussels, Axminster, velvet, and other higher grades have been erected since 1869, and these now amount to about one-fifth of the production.

The report of the society for 1875 claimed a total manufacture of nearly 19,000,000, and an increase in the machiney in the form of mills, steam-power, 865,666 looms, etc., of more than 100 per cent., and says, 1,573,648 "There is a considerable increase in the relation of steam to hand-power on the looms, and of steam power in the spinning machinery. The full diversity of forms desired in consumption being now supplied here, the quantity imported has greatly fallen off, and little attempt is made in Western cities to obtain any portion of foreign." The estimated value of the carpet production of the city for 1875 was $19,000,000. The census of 1880, as regards Philadelphia, was very unsatisfactory to her people and authorities. Its accuracy, as far as it went, was questioned, and the extent of its inquiries was not deemed wide enough. So far as carpets were concerned, the report fell far short of the estimate made by Mr. Blodget for 1875, the value of the annual product being stated at only $14,263,510. The census returned but 170 establishments, while the census for 1870 reported 244, and that for 1860 enumerated 124. The capital employed in 1880 was set down at $7,174,483, and the value of materials at $8,964,381. These figures appearing

The earliest mention of the manufacture of carpets in this country is that of William Calverly, of Loxley's Court, whose carpets were "asserted to be superior to those imported, and which was thought worthy of exhibition at the Coffee-House." The date of this is supposed to be 1774. The manufacture of

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CARPET, BLANKET, CLOTH AND PLUSH MILLS, PHILADELPHIA.

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