Cornbread Nation 4: The Best of Southern Food Writing

Front Cover
Dale Volberg Reed, John Shelton Reed, John T. Edge
University of Georgia Press, 2008 - Cooking - 308 pages
This new collection in the Southern Foodways Alliance's popular series serves up a fifty-three-course celebration of southern foods, southern cooking, and the people and traditions behind them. Editors Dale Volberg Reed and John Shelton Reed have combed magazines, newspapers, books, and journals to bring us a "best of" gathering that is certain to satisfy everyone from omnivorous chowhounds to the most discerning student of regional foodways.

After an opening celebration of the joys of spring in her natal Virginia by the redoubtable Edna Lewis, the Reeds organize their collection under eight sections exploring Louisiana and the Gulf Coast before and after hurricanes Katrina and Rita, the food and farming of the Carolina Lowcountry, "Sweet Things," southern snacks and fast foods, "Downhome Food," "Downhome Places," and a comparison of southern foods with those of other cultures.

In his "This Isn't the Last Dance," Rick Bragg recounts his experience, many years ago, of a New Orleans jazz funeral and finds hope therein that the unique spirit of New Orleanians will allow them to survive: "I have seen these people dance, laughing, to the edge of a grave. I believe that, now, they will dance back from it." "My passport may be stamped Yankee," writes Jessica B. Harris in her "Living North/Eating South," "but there's no denying that my stomach and culinary soul and those of many others like me are pure Dixie." In her "Tough Enough: The Muscadine Grape," Simone Wilson explains that the lowly southern fruit has double the heart-healthy resveratrol of French grapes, thus offering the hope of a "southern paradox." The title of Candice Dyer's brief history says it all: "Scattered, Smothered, Covered, and Chunked: Fifty Years of the Waffle House." In a photo essay, documentarian Amy Evans shows us the world of oystering along northwest Florida's Apalachicola Bay, and for the first time in the series, recipes are given-for a roux, braised collard greens, doberge cake, and other dishes.

Published in association with the Southern Foodways Alliance at the Center for the Study of Southern Culture at the University of Mississippi. A Friends Fund Publication.

 

What people are saying - Write a review

We haven't found any reviews in the usual places.

Selected pages

Contents

Introduction
1
Spring
5
Edmund McIlhenny and the Birth of a Louisiana Pepper Sauce
13
Boudin and Beyond
20
First You Make a Roux
26
A Lunchtime Institution Overstuffs Its Last Po Boy
32
Apalachicola
37
The Natural
53
Making a Mess of Poke
196
Green Party
201
Something Special
206
Cornbread in Buttermilk
211
Salt
212
Pork Skins
214
Rinds
216
LateNight Chitlins with Momma
218

This Isnt the Last Dance
69
Letter from New Orleans
71
From the Crescent City to the Bayou City
78
A Meal to Remember
83
Recapturing Recipes Katrina Took Away
88
Willie Maes Scotch House
93
Crab Man
97
Lowcountry Lowdown
109
Carolina Comfort out of Africa
115
Savior or Satan?
121
MolassesColored Glasses
130
The Genie in the Bottle of Red Food Coloring
139
Store Lunch
145
The Souths Love Affair with Soft Drinks
147
A Southern Journey
153
Mountain Dogs
160
Fifty Years of the Waffle House
166
Let Us Now Praise Fabulous Cooks
172
Molly Mooching on Bradley Mountain
181
Deep Roots
189
The Muscadine Grape
194
No Bones about It
222
The Way of All Flesh
224
By the Silvery Shine of the Moon
228
Is There a Difference between Southern and Soul?
237
Movement Food
245
Ricky Parker
252
Home away from Home Cookin
256
The Cypress Grill
261
Roll Over Escoffier
267
German Influences in Southern Cooking
270
Living NorthEating South
273
Why Jews Dont Get Quail
275
Southern by the Grits of God
279
Ziti vs Kentucky
282
Dennis Water Cress
285
Frank Stitt
288
Benediction
293
Contributors
299
Acknowledgments
303
Copyright

Other editions - View all

Common terms and phrases

About the author (2008)

Dale Volberg Reed is a freelance musician and writer. John Shelton Reed is founding coeditor of the journal Southern Cultures. He is the Mark W. Clark Visiting Professor History at The Citadel, and William Rand Kenan Jr. Professor Emeritus of Sociology at the University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill. The Reeds are coauthors of 1001 Things Everyone Should Know about the South. The Southern Foodways Alliance documents, studies, and celebrates the diverse food cultures of the changing American South. It is a member-supported organization of more than 1,000 cooks, thinkers, academics, writers, and eaters. Atlantic Monthly called the SFA "this country's most intellectually engaged (and probably most engaging) food society." www.southernfoodways.org. John T. Edge is director of the Southern Foodways Alliance and Cornbread Nation general editor. He is the author or editor of more than a dozen books, including The New Encyclopedia of Southern Culture: Foodways and A Gracious Plenty: Recipes and Recollections from the American South. Edge contributes to a wide array of publications, including the New York Times, Oxford American, and Garden & Gun. www.johntedge.com.

Bibliographic information