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FASHIONS
For SEPTEMBER, 1807.

EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION,

ENGLISH COSTUME.

No. 4.--EVENING Dress.
No 1.-EVENING DREss.

A round train gown of white sarsnet, with A round train dress of India muslin, embroi.

// square back, wrap front, and short full sleeve; dered in a fancy border of needle-work at the feet.

ornamented round the bottom, bosom and sleeves

with a rich chenille ribband of shaded green. A The stock bosom, ornamented with white beads.

short sash tied behind with shaded chenille ends. A full Spanish short sleeve, over a plain one of

The Parisian head-dress, composed of the hair white satin. A scolloped lace tucker, placed

formed in braids and curls, blended with bands of strait round the bosom. Circassian scarf of gold,

green and gold foil. The pear earrings of gold chambrey, or lace, crossing the back, and gather

and pearl. An imperial necklace of linked gold; ed in front of the left shoulder into an emerald

elastic bracelets of the same, with emerald studs. brooch, reaching to the feet, finished with a gold tassel, and occasionally formed into drapery by

Shoes white satin ; gloves French kid; and fan

of white crape, painted in a border of the yellow the attitude of the right hand. The hair taste

jessamine. fully disposed in bands and curls; and a small Osirich feather crossing the crown towards the right side, is fastened to the hair with an emerald

A REGULAR AND EXTENSIVE DELI. stud. Earrings, necklace, and bracelets of pearl,

NEATION with emerald clasps. White kid gloves and shoes.

OF THE MOST SELECT No. 2.-EVENING WALKING DRESS.

FASHIONS FOR THE SEASON; A plain round gown of jaconet muslin, a || Transmitted from the several Places of walking length, simply ornamented with rows

clegant resort, of open-hems round the bottom. A plain square

AiThough the flight of our fashionable bosom sitting close to the form, laced up the

fair leaves us little to communicate inimediately front, and trimmed at the edge with twisted

from the metropolis, on the score of fashionable muslin. A large straw hat of the Gipsy form,

intelligence, yet as we pursue the changeful tied across the crown with a silk handkerchief.

goddess with determined perseverance, in her Deep Vandyke stock, of lace or needle-work.

various haunts, we hope to collect for her fair A black lace or Chinese shawl, thrown in irregular negligence over the shoulders. Straw.

votaries a selection of delineations equally copious

with those advantages which our extensive limits coloured kid gloves and shoes. White sarsnet

of observation afford. It is true, that our brilliant parasol, deeply fringed, and painted in historical

parties, and public assemblies are for a while

suspended; that our streets no longer resound No. 3.-A WALKING Daess.

with the rolling of splendid equipages, or attract A plain round robe of the finest French cam- by the Bumber and elegance of their fair pebric. A Capuchin cloak of muslin or coloured | destrians : both animate and inanimate nature sarsnet, edged in Vandyke, sitting close round | however need their allotted portion of rest; and the throat, with a falling collar, and confined in the present period may not, therefore, improthe centre with a ribband or brooch. A Village perly be termed the repose of the metropolis. hat, of straw or chip, with silk crown, and rib- || But genius, taste, and pleasure are always active, band to correspond with the cloak. Shoes of they disdain the dormant faculties of languor and brown kid; gloves York tan; and parasol of supineness; and merely shift the scene, in which clouded sarsnet.

they are ever destined to perform the principal No. XXI. Vol. III.

devices.

part. Accordingly at Brighton, at Ramsgate, at | bonnet, of wove and variegated willow ; fringed Worthing, at Yarmouth, at Scarborough, we at the crown with light green or lilac. The find thein holding their respective courts, and by short canonical cloak of muslin, or coloured combining their attractions, giving lustre and sarsnet, trimmed with thread lace. The Spanish animation to each gay and social scene. Now as scarf, and Chili girdle, together with simple scarfs at these places of summer resort, the splendid of coloured Italian crape, twisted fancifully round habit of the drawing-room is somewhat laid aside, the figure, and worn with small transparent it is the more requisite that the evening and bonnets of the same, are all articles which rank morning, the walking, or carriage costume, high amidst a fashionable selection. The Arcashould chiefly engage our present attention; for dian hat of straw, or black chip, composes much at the summer evening assemblies, the petit simple and novel elegance. It is somewhat of déjeuné, or any rural fete, the attire to be con- the small gipsy form, with an oval, or melon sidered either elegant or consistent, should par. || crown. The rim sits close on one side of the head, take more of a graceful, unobtrusive simplicity, so as to cover the ear; and on the other, exhibits than of that dazzling display which distinguishes a small French cap of lace, or a demi crown of the winter ball or drawing-room., It is in the | similar materials with the hat; a half handkerunstudied, yet chaste and tastefal garb of a do chief of black net, embroidered in coloured silks, mestic gentlewoman, in the neat, yet elegant (chiefly shaded crimson, or jonquille), simply attire appropriated to the evening walk, where crosses the crown, and confines it under the taste and fashion unite in forming an interesting chin. Some ladies add a flower in front, others simplicity of style, that a beautiful woman will pass a small wreath across the forehead so as to engage the attention, and come nearest the blend tastefully with the hair ; and each of these heart. We naturally glance from external grace, additions have a most animated and pleasing neatness, and propriety, to the purity of the effect, and renders this uncommonly elegant sont, and the order of the mind; and our admi ornament, sufficiently dressy for an evening pariy. ration insensibly changes to esteem and affection | Simple gipsy hats of straw and chip, are still preas we contemplate the existing analogy. We valent; and a bonnet somewhat of the Minerva have in our former communications, occasionally form, is lately introduced on the evening parades. insisted on the necessary attention of females to | It is formed of a rich fancy sarsnet, shaded in this particular style of decoration; and at a period the form of small clouds; ornamented with when from its appropriate qualities, the adoption || Angola feathers on the crown, of correspondent will consequently be more general, it will not be

hues; and finished at the edge with the French amiss to dwell more at large on its nature and ad

binding. Many ladies appear on the public vantages. We will begin with the walking, or walks in simple caps of satin, or lace, lined with carriage costume, which we consider never to coloured sarsnet, and ornamented with wreaths, have combined more variety and elegance than or small bunches of flowers. Over the cap, or at the present season. The robe pelisse of plain suspended from the edge, is seen a short veil of or embroidered muslin, let in down the seams, French lace. Indeed we remark, that no female and entirely round, with double rows of beading of fashionable pretensions appears in a cap or in embroidery, is exceedingly esteemed, both small hat, without this chaste and becoming apas a morning robe, or sea-side wrap. The Brung pendage. The veil is so graceful and interestwick mob anil vest, the simple jacket and petti ing an ornament, that which ever way disposed coat, made high in the neck, with Spanish it must ever produce a distinguishing effect. We capes and Catalani sleeves, trimmed with Van take upon us however to recommend some attendyke lace, are all articles of fashionable celebrity.) tion to the size and disposition of this generally But the Bannian, or Chinese coat, as a carriage || becoming ornament; in which particular it habit, ranks high in novelty and elegance. It is should at all times be adapted to the style of formed as a large open pelisse, but short, not feature and stature of the several wearers; a short reaching below the bend of the knee; and is | woman obscures the possible symmetry of her composed of a soft Chinese silk, a salmon colour, I figure by a long or wide veil, while a female of a over which runs in a very small pattern, the tea commanding height, graceful carriage, and imleaf and berry. It is simply confined at the throat posing air, receives from the long veil consider. with a brooch, or chord and tassel of lilac silk; l; able advantage. The style of gowns and robes and a similar one is suspended from the bottom differ not very materially from our last commu. of the waist behind, meant occasionally to con- nication. The plain high front, sitting close to fine the coat. Round the bottom is placed all the form, with narrow shoulder-strap and low deep lilac silk fringe, of uncommon richness, | back; the plain Vandyke tucker, or French and beautifully shaded. This very unique and || lappelled handkerchief trimmed with Vandyke elegant article is usually worn with a small jockey || lace; the small puckered front and sleeves to

dresses of coloured crape; the lozenge front and | who, being very handsome, very insinuating, and sleeve, formed of alternate stripes of French net very poor, gladly followed the example of his and satin ribband; white tiffany short dress, countrymen, in compounding with a rich city over a coloured sarsnet under-dress; plain cam heiress, by giving himself and a title in exchange bric morning dresses, with the bodies richly for the lady's fortune and estates. The father worked in a close pattern of open-hems and em. of Lady M'Laurence was a respectable merchant, broidery, with the Catalani, or corkscrew sleeve, | whose name for more than fifty years had rem are all articles at once distinguishing and fashion sounded within the precincts of Change-Alley; able. Several females of rank and taste wear the he was the intimate friend of my uncle, and his hair cropt close behind, and formed in curls on daughter consequently one of cousin Mary's the crown of the head. In full dress, however, oldest friends. This relation will account to you a variety of style prevails; sometimes we see the || for our present destination. hind hair formed into ringlets twisted in a cable | Lady M'Laurence presumes much on her chord at the back of the head, and flowing full || wealth, is somewhat vulgar, and ill-informed ; on the left side, while a band consisting of three || she possesses a person and manners at once coarse braids rests fat on the other; sometimes the and unengaging; and Sir James, who appears simple Madona front is observed ; and sometimes I to possess a lively sensibility for female beauty entire hands of braided hair, interspersed with and elegance, seems occasionally to observe these steel beads across the forehead, and are twisted unattractive qualities in his partner, spite of that in bows at the back of the head. Ridicules of || fortune which permits him to pursue other plea

d gelyet. of various constructions, and ll sures than those arising from a reciprocal interbeautifully designed, are now much used by our change of affection and tenderness. My dear belles of fashion. The coloured parasol is be Julia, I have lately seen too inuch of those comcoming very general. Trinkets exhibit little forts and advantages which a good fortune provariety. The composition brooch, formed to cures, to form any high-flown notion of_" Love represent natural flowers; the beaded necklace ll in a Cottage;" on the contrary, from a more of polished rose-wood, capped and linked with extensive observation of men and manners, I am gold; together with earrings and brooches repre more inclined to echo the adage of our old nurse, senting the flower called the Pheasant's-eye, who used to tell us, that “When Poverty comes may be ranked amidst the most elegant and in at the door, Love flies out at the window.'' novel ornaments in this line. Black and white And yet, dear friend, one would wish that forsatin slippers, together with white and coloured tune should be but a secondary consideration in kid, trimmed to correspond with the dresses to the choice of a partner for life. which they are attached, are generally selected. ! But as this style is rather foreign to the des. White kid, York tan, and Limerick gloves, are tined purport of my letter, I will dismiss it for considered far niore genteel than those of kid the the present, and proceed to simple detail. I incolour of the bonnets, which were of late par. ll close in this packet, dear Julia, a long list of tially introd uced. The prevailing colours for Il fashionable descriptions, collected from the sevethe season are pea-green, jonquille, pale.lilac, ll ral places where we have lately sojourned, and blossom, pink, and primrose.

shall confine myself to a few choice delineations of such costumes as have since attracted my at

tention. Mary accompanied the three Lady LETTER ON DRESS.

B 's to the fete at Oatlands, last week;

and was highly charmed with the cordiality, FROM ELIZA TO JULIA, EXPLANATORY AND

fascination, and benevolent manners of the Royal DESCRIPTIVE.

Hostess. Nothing could exceed the taste, aniRosewood Villa, Richmond. mation, and hospitality of the charming scene. Well, dear Julia, after having run our The dresses of the Ladies B- was so singular round of pleasure with the great and the gay, in their construction and design, that they wiil sporting with the dashers at Brighton races, join be found worthy of delineation, were it only on ing with the fashionable throng at Worthing, the score of novelty; they were styled the Caradmiring the fresh-imported Cits at Margate, and melite, or Convent vest, and were formed of a sighing over the military heroes embarking at gossamer satin, the colour a nun's brown. They Ramsgate, here I am,- quietly scated beneath a || were cut low in the back and bosom, with a branching willow, whose boughs, reclining in plain long sleeve of white crape; a French tippet luxuriant loveliness, embrace the quietly flowing of the same, cut in Vandykes, and entirely with. Thames, The Villa of which we are at present out trimming, met the edge of the vest round the inmates, is the residence of Sir James the bosom, and sat close to the form; round the M'Laurence, a cheerful generous Hibernian; 1 throat it was finished with a row of Convent

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