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in a full bow on the shoulder, the ends falling ilmented with a lower ; but we wish that niany irregularly down the left side, and finished with l of our females would distinguish and regulate tassel, are considered the most distinguishing in with greater nicety, and not allow those ornathis style of ornament. The hat a la Diana, of ments to form any part in the morning decorablack chip, with coloured net embroidered hand tion. The Prorence hat, Cottage bonnet, or kerchiefs; the Spanish hat, of black satin-straw, i small straw hat and veil, are appropriate to the ornamented in front with autumnal flowers ; morning walk, and flowers (that animating and straw, or white chip hats, with Vandyke and consistent decoration of the evening dress)-must scolloped edges, and small Scotch bonnets, of ever be considered in the above-mentioned cisfancy sarsnets, erged with French binding, and tume a vulgar supernumerary. We have lately trimmed with a full Angola fringe, are selected seen a dress which, from its simplicity and eleby females of the first rank and fashion. The gance, attracted universal attention ; it consisted curlerl ostrich feather placed across the crown of a plain short gown of leno or crape, worn over of the head is much introduced in full dress, and a white satin slip; at the bottom was laid a has a most novel and appropriate effect.

broad satin ribband, finished at the extreme edge Flowers are much worn, and variously disposed; || with a narrow Vandyke lace; a spenser waist the barberry, ihe ranunculus, the clove-carnation, with short sleeve, composed entirely of crape and and Labrador rose, we observe to rank highest on | satin ribband formed in plaits;.a winged ruff of the list of fashion. Habit shirts of lace or em. scolloped lace ornamented ihe back and shoulbroidery, with a deep Vandyke falling frill, anders; and a small hat of the Spanish form, with the shirt with lace introduced in the melon form, la willow feather, frosted with silver, waving over gathered round the throat with a border of the the crown towards the left side where the hat same, are articles perfectly new and attractive. inclined, composed the head-dress. The trinkels The style of gowns vary little since our last com. were entirely of brilliants set in the most fashion, munication. The morning dress is made high in able form; the shoes were white satin, with the neck as usual, and formed in a plain cambric silver rosets ; the fan of white tiffany, with lilies robe, a walking length; with belis a la Diana, l of the valley in silver ; and a bouquet consisting and deep Vandyke roff, or in jackets and petti of the myrtle, mignionette, and Provence rose, coats'ornamented with work, lace, or muslin. completed this almost celestial attire. Dresses French coats, or breakfast wraps, continue their l of black, or coloured net, over white satin slips, station in the morning wardrobe, and this style with rich appliqued borders in coloured chenille of costume is considered incomplete and inele- || or white bends, are the distinguishing decoration gant without a cap; this latter ornament usually of many females of rank on public occasions, consists of the Brunswick mob, French quartered White and coloured embroidered net handkercap, or nun's houd of lace, lined with coloured chiefs, are still considered extremely fashionable, sarsnet, and edged with a narrow rich Vandyke, I both as ornaments for the hair and to tie down the latter is an article comprising much novelty | the gipsy hat. Tuckers of net, formed in the and elegance. Round gowns of muslin, either honcy.comb edge, or trimmed with Vandyke short or with trains, edged at the feet with nar. ll or scolloped lace, are introduced with those row Vandyke, or cut in large crescent scallops, dresses which are cut low in the bosom. Bindand edged with a fine pearl net, worn with a lings of embroidery continue a favourite ornament military sash of white sarsnet, must ever be || for muslin and ca ubric dresses, and it is now not ranked amidst a chaste and fashionable aitire. ll only introduced round the bottom and bosom Robes of coloured muslin or crape, worn over || but up the seains of dresses, and we have not while satin, trimmed with fancy trimming of witnessed an embellishment more neat and apchenille, beads, or silver, and a cestus to corres propriate. The short sleeve, if formed of lace or pond, are considered uncommonly elegant and with a Vandyke cuff, must only be of an easy attractive. Çainted, or embroidered borders re. fullness; if of the same material as the dress, presenting natural flowers, on muslin or tiffany 1l they are disposed in the melon or bishop form, robes, it is thought will be much introduced in | but each very short, finished with hair or pearl full dress during the winter, at present we only | arnilets. notice a few in the very first circles of rank and We have seen nothing in the long sleeve more fashion. Grecian drapery, folded in a picturesque elegant than those described in our last ; nor can style round the figure, is also observable in the li there be any covering for the arm more becoming ball room ; but at this season of the year to be and attractive than the Catalani and surplice considered of fashionable distinction, public de twisted sleeve, confined at the wrist with elastic coration should be chaste and elegant, rather | bracelets of gold or hair. Some dashing elegantes than showy and splendid.

have lately sported stocking; of brown and purple In the evening parade, the hat may be orna. | silk, with coloured clocks and open-wove anklen

But we cannot help remarking that this feature || therefore, dear Julia, those beings the most politie ps the human form, when rendered conspicuous || and the most happy, who like the inhabitants of by the singularity of its decoration, will attract | this hospitable mansion, fulfil the duties of their without pleasing; we naturally turn with disgust station, content to take the world as it goes, and from that species of art which obscures and dis catch pleasure as it flies ?-You will doubtless guises the symmetry of nature; we confess our-| look at the date of my letter with some degree selves a votary to neatness and elegance com- || of surprise, and will think us guided by a weatherbined; and therefore wish not to see the above cock influence, in being thas sudden and unexmentioned fashion become goneral amongst fe- | pectedly, transported from one place to another. males who have been celebrated for unobtrusive | The truth is, dear Julia, that the sulky fits, and loveliness, simplicity, and virtue.

mysterious conduct of Sir James M'Laurence, We have little to remark on the articles of together with the spirited harangue of his intrinkets, they have undergone little alteration tolerably vulgar spouse, induced cousin Mary since our last Number; the wedding hoop-ring, to accept an invitation to accompany her brother, with a single brilliant, ruby, emerald, or amethyst on a shooting party, to this delightful spot. The in the centre; the Carmelite cross, the jessamine change, dear friend, is productive of considerable brooch, with bottles formed of Egyptian amulet advantage, both on the score of fashionable inforwood embellished with correspondent characters, || mation, the introduction to polished society, and are the only ornaments in this line which strike | the enjoyment of intellectual pleasures. This us as worthy of observation.

beautiful retreat has been in the family of its Gloves and shoes are governed by no particular present possessor (Lord John P- ) upwards vandard, but left to the choice of the wearer; of seven centuries, and in the sublimity of its the prevailing colours for the season are, rose, architectural construction, picturesque beauiy, preen, purple, salmon, and melbourn brown. and local situation is not exceeded by any in this

charming county. You, my dear Julia, would

enjoy the very perfection of rural happiness in LETTER ON DRESS,

the gardens, park, and surrounding scenery of

this earthly paradise. Our host is a man whose IXPLANATORY AND DESCRIPTIVE, FROM ELIZA

natural hauteur of manner is evidently softened TO JULIA.

by the mild graces, and amiable dispositions of Henley Grove-House, Surrey. || his lovely wife : she is the second choice of his You preach much, dear Julia, in your epistle Lordship; and amply repays him for a lack of Dow before me, of the quiet pleasures of domes connubial felicity experienced in his former mnartic life, of those still and tranquil enjoyinents riage. within the vicinity of our own domains; and After the mixed assemblies which present themgive(I must allow) an interesting portrait of your selves at the several watering places we have lately fair friend and her rational and amiable spouse ; visited (where the adventurer of both sexes are who, educated in the tenets of the old school, love permitted indecorously to mingle with people of one another with all their hearts-educate their distinction and virtue), it is pleasant to find one'schildren, and attend to the religion, morals, and self in a society whose unquestionable respectapersonal comfort of their surrounding tenantry. bility, elegance of deportment, and urbanity of I respect, dear Jalia, the purity and delicacy of manners, divest one of restraint, and render unyour sentiments; but allow me to say, that in necessary that reserve so painful to the open and this sad world it is dangerous to refine too highly. generous breast. This mansion is seldom with“He says Dr. Johnson) who tov delicately re out visiters of rank and fashion; and we frequentfines his feelings always endangers his quiet.” ly set down sixteen or eighteen to dinner. The Alas! Julia, when in early youth, you and I fortune of Lord and Lady

P is ample their traversed the vicarage garden, and rambled in ll establishment splendid, and their hearts expand girlish confidence through the old ruins of

F l at the call of hospitality. Can I then have a more Abbey, our affection and imagination took the extensive field from whence to gather the choicest lead; our unadulterate hearts, in love with good flowers of fashion, taste, and elegance. -Our ness, delighted to paint objects as we wished, morning and out-door costume (which in visits rather than as they are, and to wander in paths of of this sort require a particular attention) exhibits visionary happiness. Where, alas! shall we somc little variation since my last address. The look for a realization of those prospects of felici Carmelite cloak, though much in esteem, is ty, those air-built castles which our vivid fancies rivalled by the Rugen mantle, or Swedish wrap, delighted to rear? Not in the region of romance, which owes its origin to the exquisite taste, and for that is but an ignis fatuus that deludes with invention of my dasbing cousin. In its construcfalse hopes and vain expectasions. Are not | tion it is not unlike the cassocks worn by our

ON

ac,

divines; it is formed of a Chinese silk, a pale || idea of their form and effect. As Mary and my olive colour, and is ornamented all round with a self proposed to join the throng of Terpsichore, most delicate fancy border' of embroidery in we of course wore our robes appropriately short; coloured silks; a deep silk fringe is placed at the these were formed of undressed Italian tiffany, extreme edge, and the sash (which is brought made round, and cut in deep scallops at the

he left shoulder, is fastened in á tuft on || bottom, round which was a most delicate border the opposite side of the waist, and the ends of barberries, painted to nature. The under dress trimined with the same. With these wraps we was a slip of gossamer satin, erged at the feet wear hats of black satin-straw, somewhat of the with a very narrow Vandyke in silver; the bosom Spanish form, with a damask rose, or carnation, and bottom of the sleeve ornamented with the placed in front, or towards the left side near the same. Our hair fell in irregular ringlets round hair. There are four of us at this hospitable the forehead, divided over the left eye, and a mansion who appear in these novel habits, and I small Arcadian hat of silver frosted satin, ornaassure you we not only attract the beaus of sportemented with a wreath of barberries, was placed on ing celebrity, but move the wonder of surround- one side of our heads. Mary wore a single row ing villagers. In our breakfast attire we do not of fine brilliants, by way of necklace, from the exclude the French coat of cambric or inuslin, centre of which was suspended a Carmelite cross, but our peasant jacket and petticoat we consider her earrings and bracelets to correspond. On her as a more unique article. It is necessary how beautifully turned arm was displayed the armlet ever that I observe to you, that unless the figure of fashionable adoption, and which is compused be tall or slender, no advantage can be derived of the hair of your lover and dearest feniale from this habit.

| friend, as a souvenir de l'amour par et de l'ametie. At this season of the year there is no novel | My ornaments were of pearl, and we each wore standard for full dress, but its alterations and em- bouquets of the Labradore rose, Cape beath, and bellishments are at the direction of fancys the jessamine; our shoes were of white satin, einstyle however is preserved, and a correct taste, broidered in silver jessamine at the toes; our and ready invention, can at all times vary the gloves of French kid, rucked so as to display the effect with advantage. Lord P- visits all the round of the arm; and we had Opera fans of families of distinction within twenty miles of his white crape, with naval devices in transparencies. mansion, and we have therefore a succession of Lady P very kindly complimented us on dinner visits, and inducements for drives to town. the choice of our attire ; and assured us that we Last week Mary and myself accompanied our were considered the best dressed girls in the ball. elegant hostess to the aniversary ball of the room. Forgive this egotism, dear Julia, and Honourable Mrs. C- Here was collected believe me not the less your faithful and af. | all the splendour and fashion of the gay world; | fectionate never did I see taste, beauty, and grace so uni

ELIZA. versal. My time will not allow a description of the furniture and decoration of this splendid seat; suffice it, that the Grecian and Chinese taste took

TO CORRESPONDENTS. place of the Egyptian of antecedent celebrity; and lights transınitted from lamps of alabaster, THE Letter of our Sandwich Correspondent, pairited in elegant devices, diffused a mild and containing thoughts accasioned by reading a recent chastened light, which gave an enchanting in- publication by Diogenes, entitled The Royal terest to the objects which moyed beneath their Eclipse, 01 Delicate Facts," came too late for in. rays.

sertion in our present Number but will appear in our · As our dresses for this gay occasion were ne- || next; and likewise the continuation of the Anti. cessarily select, I will endeavour to give you an quarian Olio."

London: Printed by and for J. Beur, Southampton-Street, Sorund.

OR,

Bell's

COURT AND FASHIONABLE

MAGAZINE,

FOR OCTOBER, 1807.

EMBELLISHMENTS.

1. An elegant Portrait of HER ROYAL HIGHNESS THE CROWN PRINCESS OF DENMARK, 2. FOUR WHOLE-LENGTH FIGURES of Ladies in the London Fashions for the Month. S. AIR FOR THE ELEPHANTS; composed by the celebrated GLUCK. 4. A new and elegant PATTERN for NEEDLE-WORK.

208

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF ILLUS-1 A singular Account of a Play....
TRIOUS LADIES.

Singular Adventure of a British Soldier in

America .......................... Her Royal Highness the Crown Princess of

The two Apothecaries......... Denmark ....

My Night-Cap........

...

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... 175

213

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ORIGINAL COMMUNICATIONS.

FAMILIAR LECTURES ON USEFUL

SCIENCES. A Dream on the Occupation of departed

| Familiar Lectures on Physiognomy ...... 214 Souls............... .......... 176

Culinary Researches........

..... 215 Additions to the Natural History of certain

On the Art of Drawing ...............

... 216 Animals .......................... 180 On the Imagination .................... 181

· POETRY, History of a Russian young Lady ........ 183

Original and Select .......
Thoughts occasioned by Reading a recent

Publication, entitled" The Royal Eclipse;
or, Delicate Facts, by Diogenes"...... 185

PUBLIC AMUSEMENTS.
Speech delivered in a Literary Society ..., 1891

Maids to be Married; by M. Picard ...... 221 Essay on Flattery....

. 191 Criticism on the new Performers at Drury. Essay on Quackery ...........

. 192

lane and Coven.garden .............. 223 The Anriquarian Olio.................. 193 Continuation of Voltaire's Zadig; or, Blue

LA BELLE ASSEMBLEE. Eyes ..........

.... 194 || Explanation of the Prints of Fashion .... 225 A Tour in Zealand, in 1802, by a Native of | English and Parisian Costume .......... ib.

Denmark .......................... 196 || General Observations on the most select and Sir Edward Seymour; an English Tale .... 200 elegant Fashions for the Season ........ 226 The Ladies' Toilette; or, Encyclopædia of Letter on Dress..

w... 227 Beauty ..

.............. 205 || Supplementary Advertisements for the Month.

London: Printed by and for J. Bell, Proprielor nf the WEEKLY MESSENGER, Southampton-Street,

Strand, November 1, 1807.

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