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LA BELLE ASSEMBLÉE.

FASHIONS
For DECEM R, 1807.

EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION,

No. 1.-AN EVENING Dress.

loured silks, or trimmings of fancy fur. A beaver A simple round gown of white satin, or coloured hat of the same colour as the coat, turned up on eloth; triangular fiont, finished with silver bead the left side, with cockade and band a-la-militaire, ing. Plain back, brought to a point at the bot- || and ornamented with a crimped willow feather. tom of the waist, which is increased in length.! Hair cropped; coral earrings; York tan gloves; A full short sleeve, with loose slashed ornaments and slippers of red Morocco. in the Spanish style; the slashes wrought in an elegant pattern of silver erabroidery, and severally

No. S. finished with a small correspondent tassel. The) A frock dress of plain cambric, or India mus. hair bound tight roussd the head in the Grecian lin; with short Bishop's sleeve, round bosom, style, twisted in braids behind, the ends formed ! and drawn back. A plain drawn tucker of Paris in a tuft of full curls, and confined with a gold | net; the frock trimmed down the sides with the comb, from whence are seen pendent ringlets, same, or gathered muslin, A French pelerine, similar to those which fall on the left shoulder; of fluted velvet, or plaited lawn, with high ruff; in front it is divided over the left temple with the the tippet crossing the bosom in front, is tied in Diana crescent, of pink topaz, above which are a bow at the bottom of the waist behind. A a few dishevelled curls. Necklace and earrings poke bonnet, of basket willow, or striped velvet, of pink topaz, bracelets of linked pearl, with cor. ||

ets of linked pearl, with cor. ll with full bows, and long ends of shaded orange respondent studs. A Circassian scarf of orange, | ribband on one side. York tan gloves above the or criinson, figured or plain, with rich border and elbow. Turkish slippers of red Morocco. fringe at the ends, of colours tastefully varied

No. 4. This shawl is thrown carelessly round the throat, or across the shoulders, or is formed in a negligent A Zealand wrap, of crimson Georgian cloth, and graceful drapery, by the disposition of the the bosom and cuffs composed of fluted velvet hands. Turkish slippers of white satin; and the same colour. A mountain bonnet trimmed white kid gloves rucked.

to correspond, and ornamented with a shaded

handkerchief; which is formed in a full tuft on No.2.-MORNING WALKING Dress.

the left side, and brought under the chin. A A high military vest of French cainbric, lawn, high ruff, of French lace, with scollopped edge, or muslin, buttoned down the front; and formed brought to a point in the centre of the bosom. with the chemisette waist, and high collar. Cir. A rich cord and acorn tassel confining the coat cassian robe-pelisse, of pale olive, dove, puce, round the waist, and tied in front with long or purple, formed of napped velvet, twill sarsnet, | ends. The under dress of plain muslin, or French kersey mere, or Georgian cloth; bordered with a || cambric. Shoes of browa velvet, and gloves rich shaded Brucade ribband, embroidery in co- || Limerick kid. No. XXIV. Vol. III.

Nn

of

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS

robe of sombre hue; but the solemnity is re

moved by borders and trimmings of embroidery, ON THE MOST APPROVED AND

in colours. We have seldom seen a dress conELEGANT FASHIONS FOR THE SEASON. bining more taste and beauty than one of black

Italian gauze, embroidered round the train, boThe fashions for the winter may now be

som, and sleeves, with a border of wild roses and considered fixed as to style; and that interme.

jessamine, tastefully blended, and worn over a diate and party.coloured costume which generally

white satin slip. Velvet and superfine cloth distinguishes the decline of autumn is completely

dresses, richly embroidered, and formed in the laid aside. Articles, combining at once taste,

combining at once taste, || Calypso robe, or Diana vest, stand high in richfashion, and utility, are observable in walking

ness and beauty. Lace is let in to every part of and carriage habiliments. In public, a brilliant

this làst-mentioned habit, but is most distinand endless variety is displayed; and elegance,

guishable down each side, so as to give the apo grace, and beauty may be said to shine unrivalled,

pearance of a robe and petticoat. Deep em. We shall, with our accustomed attention, select

broidered borders of needle-work are continued from their several orders such articles as carry the

round the trains, and across the front of dresses, stamp of fashionable superiority, not only from

in representation of the rounded wrap. Bonnets their own individual elegance, but from their

of velvet, of the poke form, cut so as to display being chosen by females who rank high on the list

the ears, and ornamented with fur, or puckered of tonish celebrity. We have not been able to dis

silk, the colour of the lining of the pelisse, are cover much diversity in the construction of man

much in esteem. Figured sarsoet bonnets, with tles and pelisses. They are now considered more

the simple round crown, and turned up in the fasliionable in proportion to their plainness; and

high crescent form over the left eye, in full although some few are made with robbins and

puckers, or reversed plaiting; beaver riding-hats, Grecian vests, trimmed with fancy fur, yet the

of dove or purple, and otherwise shaded to match most select and fashionable are in formation like

the pelisse or mantle; fur caps, and jockey bonthe Turkish robe, with a waistcoat of the same, nets of purple leather, seamed with bright yel. or composed of an appropriate silk, and breasted low, or red, are severally selected by the fashiona-la-militaire. The Maltese mantle of tiger

able female. Small half-handkerchiefs, in covelvet is in general esteem; and the long cano loured net, with rich borders, are suill considered nical cloak of crimson, orange, or brown, formed as a becoming change. The corner behind is of kersey mere, or Georgian cloth, are both useful, cut off, and the border continued straight along appropriate, and becoming articles. The edges the back, while the ends which fall on each side of these are severally oruamented with velvet the head are finished with an acorn tassel, corborders, laid Nat; a full cable-twisted cord responding with the border; and on the foreplaced at a little distance from the edge, or with head it is fornied precisely like she Anne Bulskins happily contrasted with the colour of the l len mob. mantle. The Parisian fashion of associating co. The Swedish peasani's jacket and petticoat, is lours, is adopted by the British female, though 1 a habit of much attraction and simplicity; comin other respects the Gallic fair have long bebining a sort of rusticity and interest, at once come copyists of our English style. The cou appropriate, and becoming to the youthful wearer. pling of our colours, however, we consider as Trains are now very general in the evening dress; more chaste and consistent for the season; they and are frequently trimmed entirely round with still continue the pale lines of summer, while a broad lace. Muslins are usually worn very we are uniting the glowing orange, or brilliant clear, and the petticoat so short, as to exhibit the coquelicot and morone, with the most tasteful ankle through, which is laced in the sandal style, shades of contrasted elegance. In the article of ornamented with the open-wove stocking. We gowns and robes, there is much novelty and at have seen a dress of this kind composed of blue traction. Coloured dresses, variously constructed, crape, with trimmings and drapery of silver.net and of divers forms and materials, are exbibited; I and lifies. The hair still preserves the Greciin and in full dress, less white garments are dis. and antique style; but is variously and fancifully tinguishable than have been observable for many || disposed. Some braid the whole of the hind

years, white dresses being now more generally hair, and curling the ends, form them in full • confined to the morning costume. The sable robe curls over the left eye. Others confine it tight is not now considered only as the symbol of sor- round the head in sınooth bands, over which are row, as an emblem of mournful regret for de- l placed several small braids, which are twisted at parted excellence, friendship, or love. The the back of the head, like that given in No. 1, of sprightly nymph, the cheerful matron, with our Prints of Fashion; and some form the hind faslion's gayest offspring, frequently adopt the hair in dishevelled curls, and form it in a become

ing disorder on the crown of the head, mecting quillity; having hitherto resisted all attacks of the curls on the forehead, which are divided so the arch god !-Thus am ) released from one of as to discover the left temple and eye-brow; your accusations, want of candour. Now as to while many prefer the simple erop, curled on the your charge of stoicism, I am fearful I shall not top like those worn by the gentlemen. Morn- come off quite so well. But there is merit, you ing gowns are often laced behind with coloured know, Julia, in braving danger; and some inte cord, and formed with the military front made genuity (when surrounded with fames and darts) in similar lacings, and correspondent buttons.

in escaping without a wound. True, the men The cap is now chiefly confined to the morning

I generally mix with are fashionable, wealthy, costume; and in this article we see nothing and elegant; but do you not know that I retain strikingly novel. Turbans seein to be entirely ex

a spice of the romance in my composition ; and ploded; but hats of frosted satin, or velvet, some

a fashionable husband (in the common accepta. what in the turban style, may very well supply

tion of that word) would break my heart in a their place. In these hats the weeping willow

twelvemonth. Riches, to be sure, is the general feather is usually seen, delicately tipped with | magnet of attraction; but I prize the wealth of silver. Necklaces of seed cural, with gold em the heart! bossed patent snaps; bracelets, of the same;

“ The seniles of affection are riches to me;" brooches and earrings to correspond, wrought in

ond, wrought in and here I feel that I should be a triding exacter, antique devices, or in Egyptian characters, are

Thus, Julia, you will perceive that, I am not only articles of considerable estimation on the list of | free, but likely to remain so! And Mary assures trinkets. The rainbow diadem, and Ethiopian | me, that unless I descend from my stilts, and crescent, are also new and elegant ornaments. I content myself ty taking “man as he is,” I Bracelets are now worn of different orders, one shall to a certainty end my days in “single of elastic hair, with variegated stud; the other | blessedness," -- Amen! and so be it!-at least for of Scotch pebbles, or mocho stone, set in gold. the present. And now, dear Julia, let me proSlippers of red Morocco are revived in the fa- || ceed to tell you, that all the world of fashion is shionable world; white satin are considered most collected in this gay city; while splendid panties, elegant in full dress. The prevailing colours brilliant assemblies, crowded theatres, and dashare, mixtures of orange, coquelicot, green, purple, ing equipages, seem the order of the day. The amber, and rose-pink,

town house of iny uncle, together with several of vur fashionable friends, has been entirely new

furnished, and exhibits a most beautiful specimen LETTER ON DRESS,

of the Chinese and Grecian style; while the taste

and elegance, distinguishable in female attire, is INTRODUCTORY AND DESCRIPTIVE, FROM ELIZA in conformity with this fashionable standard. TO JULIA.

Mary has just received accounts of the Parisian

Portman-square. fashions; but as they represent nothing striking You rally me, dear Julia, on my late indispo. or novel, I shall content myself by shewing you sition, and ask me “if my malady was not of the how we in some instances avoid their absurdities. heart." You tell me, I must be formed of stoical

They tell us that feasliers are now “ the sign of materials to be so long surrounded with men of Il a complete neglige.” We have ever considered · fashion and elegance, without becoming sensible | then the distinguishing mark of full, or at least of their attractions, and that homage I am cal. of half dress, in proportion as they vary in forini. culated to inspire! You accuse me with want of tion, height, and size. The weeping, or crimped Candour; tell me “that I am a niggard in friend willow feather, coloured or plain; and in full ship; and that by concealing my emotions, I rob || dress, tipped or frosted with gold or silver, and you of the sacred privilege of participation.” drooping towards one side of the head, is a Before I enter on the usual subject of fashionable most approved and fashionable ornament with intelligence, I feel bound (in justice to myself) I us. They are usually worn with the military, to answer these strangely imagined accusations. I Spanish, or Chinese turban hat, formed of white, And as my preliminary engagement with you purple, or crimson velvet, appliquent, or internecessarily enforces a subject, which however woven with small gold or silver stars, and ornaextensive in its nature, must needs admit of a mented with corresponding cord and tassels. little relief, it will not be amiss if I amuse The fichu, in Paris, is disposed so as to conceal the myself, and satisfy you, by silencing your sug- breast, and display the back and shoulders. In gestions. Know then, dear Julia, on my faith this fashion they have, as is now usual, imitated and verity, my sickness was not of the heart! || us. The bosom of our robes having been long This too often rebellious part of the human sioce so constructed as to shade the bust in frame, rests at present in perfect peace and tran- | front, which has a similar and more simple

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