such as move in a more domesticated sphere, || The hair in alternate ringlets, and bands, was

have our fair country-women exhibited testimonies of their advancement in taste, and the graces of life.

The era is long since past, when the daughters of our Isle condescended to turn copyists; and the females of a neighbouring kingdom are now happy to aid their exhausted inventions, by adopting the correct graces of English style. When, therefore, we offer a sample of Parisian decorations, it is more with a view of rendering our information extensive, various, and amusing, than from the necessity of offering to British females prototypes for imitation.

Although the metropolis is gradually losing on the score of fashionable attraction, yet do the Opera, Vauxhall, and our summer Theatres, still continue to exhibit a crowded display of beauty and fashion. Pleasure still holds her court within its walls; and her votaries, beguiled by her various allurements, seem reluctant to quit the field.

Little alteration is visible in the out-door costume since our last communication; but at Vauxhall we observe a novelty and grace of style appropriate to that place of captivating resort. The light flowing robes, and shadowy vestments, flowery ornaments, and azure veils, worn by our fashionable elegantes, conspire to render this brilliant scene truly Arcadian. Gowns and robes are now usually made round, and short; trains, even in full dress, being almost entirely exploded. We trust, however, that a speedy edict from the throne of taste, will again introduce this graceful appendage; for, however convenient and appropriate (which the short dress certainly is) to the morning, or walking costume, the distinguishing effect of a drawingroom is destroyed by this general reduction, and our females unquestionably deprived of much external dignity and elegance. Frocks of coloured muslin, or Italian crape, with a painted border of shells in Mosaic, worn over white sarsnet slips, are a new and elegant article; and French veils of coloured gauze, forming at once the head-dress and drapery, are considered as most graceful ornaments. They are usually worn with a plain white sarsnet or muslin gown, with flowers or wreaths in front of the hair, placed towards the left side, so as nearly to obscure the e, e brow.

ornamented with the same flowers, trastefully disposed. A sandal of white sa:in, laced with green chord, fastened with a tassel above the bend of the ankle.

The second dress, which struck us as singularly attractive, was styled the Cashmerian robe." This dress was formed of azure blue crape, with alternate spots of blue and silver foil, and ornamented at the extreme edge with silver fringe. It was worn over a white satin round dress; was fastened with a pearl brooch on the left shoulder, and fell in a kind of Roman drapery round the form in front, gradually descending till it composed the train, completing the most elegant tout ensemble that imagination could paint. The head-dress, worn with this habit, consisted of a small half-square of blue patent-net, spangled and bordered with silver. It was tied simply across the forehead, in the Chinese style, beyond which the hair appeared in dishevelled curls, and Occasionally fell over the handkerchief. The shoes were blue satin, with silver rosets.

Dress gowns are still worn high in the bosom, and very low on the back and shoulders. No handkerchief is seen in full dress; but the bottom, sleeves, and neck, are frequently ornamented with borders of natural flowers. Dancing dresses of Italian tiffany, crape, or leno, bordered with the convolvolus, wild roses, daisies, violets, &c. &c. have this season given a most animated coup d'ail to the ball-room. Indeed flowers as an ornament were never introduced with a more distinguishing effect. For the hair, they are formed in wreaths, tiaras, and small bunches; and each are placed very low on the forehead. The hair is now scarcely every seen without an ornament of this kind, or the small half handkerchief, which consists of patent net, embroidered or spangled. The latter was the distinguishing ornament of a fair bride of rank, on her first appearance at the opera, after her marriage. It was disposed in the Chinese style; but they are equally fashionable placed at the back of the head, and brought under the chin, with tiaras formed of carnations in front of the forehead. Bandeaus of broad gold are classed amidst a fashionable selection; but the turban has long re signed its place, in the sphere of taste and ele gance. That dignified and graceful ornament, the winged ruff, à la Mary Queen of Scots, At the Duchess of M- -'s last rout, we seems entirely confined to a few females of rank noticed two dresses of much novel attraction. and taste, and is perhaps more immediately apThe one entitled the Pomeranian mantle,' was propriated to such as may claim the privilege of formed of pea green gauze, cut in irregular singularity. The Vandyke though still very pointed drapery, and trimmed with a silver tufted prevalent, is not considered so novel, or genteel, fringe; it was worn over a Gossamer satin under- as the shell or crescent scollop; and the prodress, which had a narrow border of the hop-menade tippets, and French bonnets, are now blossom delicately painted round the bottom.- become absolutely canaillish. The Gipsy hat,

and robe pelice, form an elegant morning costume: the former are generally of chip with silk crowns; and the latter of white, or coloured muslin, trimmed with thread lace. The French cloak of white sarsnet, is very generally esteemed; this article is also trimmed round with broad lace; and is formed somewhat like the capuchins worn by our females of old. Caps are considered an indispensable in the morning costume. These are variously formed; but the Anne Bullen cap, and the Brunswick mob, are those in general estination, both for their novelty, simplicity, and elegance. A large bonnet, styled the woodland poke, has lately been introduced. It forms a complete shade for the face; and is particularly adapted for those ladies, who, on the public promenades, or by the sea side, would be otherwise exposed to the scorching rays of a summer's sun. These bonnets, so conspicuous for unobtrusive neatness, are best formed of clear leno, with the raised pea spot. They are lined with coloured sarsnet, agreeably to the taste of the several wearers; trimmed round the edge and crown, with a Vandyke lace, and simply confined with a ribbon under the chin. The French jacket and petticoats, of cambric, edged with a beading of embroidery, are the last new article for morning attire: the jacket is made with a square collar, and long sleeves; shaped to the form of the arm. Sometimes it is cut with a round frock bosom; and worn with an embroidered shirt. Trinkets have undergone little change since our last information. The sapphire necklace, earrings, and brooches, are most distinguishable on females of taste; but peails, diamonds, emeralds, and the union of gold and hair, must ever be ranked amidst the most chaste and elegant ornaments in this line. Gloves and shoes admit of little variety. The kid slipper for walking; and the sandal of satin, for full dress, are generally adopted.

quitted Truro. There I was at least contented. The confined circle in which my faculties were permitted to roam, gave little opportunity for the expansion of thought, or the intercourse of po lished life: A still quiet routine of domestic pursuits and feelings, rendered my spirits calm and serene. My pleasures were not dazzling, were not vivid; but then they satisfied me. And if (as is asserted) all happiness is comparative, I cannot say absolutely that I am benefited by the change. For with all the numerous pleasures by which I have of late been surrounded-while friends have flattered and beaus pursued; yet do I not feel that perfect tranquillity I was sensible of when in Cornwall. A restless anxiety, a sort of hurrying apprehensive emotion, flutters in my breast; and I am not philosopher enough to trace the cause which actuates, or the medicine which heals. We were to have quitted town three days since; but have this morning received cards for the Marchioness of S's last grand assembly, which will collect together all the rank and beauty in London and its environs. Mary is one of those happy mortals who catch pleasure as it flies, and will not deprive herself of any amusement morally within her reach. A letter is travelling by to day's post, soliciting an indulgence, which, after so long an absence, I scarcely dare hope to obtain-nothing less, Julia, than that I be permitted to accompany these delightful relatives, first to their country seat in Kent, and from thence to Brighton races. Forgive me, Julia, if I say that I wait in fearful suspence the result of this petition. Brighton, I am told, is the very centre of fashionable attraction at that season; and the scene will to me possess all the charm of novelty in addition. I shall, from this place, be able to continue my communications to you from the most select and elegant sources; and how much subject for personal conversation will it afford for our evening tete-a

The prevailing colours for the season are pink, tetes on my return to you. Do not, therefore, lavender blossom, green, and jonquille.

LETTER ON DRESS.

FROM ELIZA TO JULIA, PREVIOUS TO HER

DEPARTURE FROM LONDON.

The po

ALAS! my dear Julia, this will probably be the last letter you will receive from me bearing the date of dear enchanting London. My spirits are, I confess, a little below par at the prospect of quitting its gay and jocund scenes. lished societies, the fashionable assemblies, the theatres, gardens, and public drives, the works of genius and the productions of art; have all afforded me amusement and delight; and, I fear, given me a relish for higher enjoyments. Perhaps, my friend, it had been better had I never

condenin me on the score of friendship, dear Julia! Gladly would I bring you to me; but as this is impracticable, I will endeavour to atone for my protracted absence by renewing my treaty with you. There are people, Julia, who prefer epistolary to personal converse. You remember the story related by Madam de Luxembourg in the Confessions of Rousseau, of the man who quitted the company of his mistress purely that he might have the pleasure of writing to her. Now though this conduct may by numbers be thought the very essence of romance, proceeding from visionaries, who, dissatisfied with things as they are, form to themselves a world of their own, and people it with the offspring of their own refined imaginations: yet will I maintain that there are situations in which an epistolary

correspondence is more interesting and effective than a personal commune; and, I trust, that my determined exertions to afford you instruction and amusement, will substantiate what I advance.

Now then, dear Julia, to begin with the time present and to come; for each, I assure you, is fully occupied with a succession of engagements. To-night we attend the Duchess of B's concert; and scarcely a disengaged two hours presents itself during our stay in town: for though many fashionables of acknowledged celebrity have quitted the metropolis, it only seems to have excited a more determined animation in those which still sojourn within its walls; and every place of fashionable resort still exhibits an assemblage which bespeaks neither a dearth of beauty, rank, or elegance.

were trimmed with a broad French lace; above which was laid a white satin ribbon. The bosoms and sleeves were gored; and the seams finished with satin beading. Mary wore her hair braided, and fastened in knots in the French style, at the back of her head, with a comb of brilliants à la chevaux de frise, a bandeau in the Chinese style crossed her forehead, and over her head was thrown in graceful negligence, a long veil of Paris net, embroidered in an elegant border of the pheasant's eye, copied to nature. This veil fell in tasteful folds about her figure, shading con-" sistently the bosom, and forming a drapery strangely beautiful. Mary's figure is perfectly adapted to this style of ornament, being the very' model of Grecian symmetry. My petite person would have been perfectly shrouded in such an article; so, Julia, I contented myself with my ' hair à la rustique, decorated with a bunch of the

Last everfing we mustered a strong party for the opera, to witness the unparalleled powers of Catalani at her second benefit. Now, Julia, Ivariagated pea-blossom; which divided the curls charge you not to laugh at, or cavil with me in front of the forehead; and appeared in a when I say, that though I do not understand cluster so as nearly to obscure the left eyebrow. more than a few words of Italian, yet did I feel My bosom was shaded with a half handkerchief every note poured from the enchanting pipe of of patent net, embroidered in a border of the this sweet minstrel. Never did I witness such same flowers in colours; and was simply fastened versatility of powers. The emphatic, the digni- at the throat with an Egyptian amulet set in fied, the expressive, the sublime, the insinuating; pearls and gold. Mary has just ordered several all reach the hearts of her enraptured auditors. new articles of attire for the country. A new and proclaim this surprising woman to possess set of morning dresses, consisting of the French ' the very soul of harmony. Thus much for my jacket and petticoat; the robe pelice of blossom, favourite enchantress, who appears to have only and white muslin. Riding coats of Circassian one thing to learn, that of economizing her silk. A gipsy hat of satin straw, and woodland talents; or rather, the art of making herself || poke bonnet. All her evening dresses are withscarce. So tottering and incomplete is the out trains, ornamented at the feet with lace, fabric on which public applause is founded; work, or crescent scollops; and worn with the that they, I am convinced, are most likely to imperial ruff of lace. Little satin caps, and the continue favourites, who wisely leave much to cap Anne Bullen, with wreaths and bunches of hope and expectation. natural flowers, are to form a part of her extensive and tasteful wardrobe. I send you, dear Julia, one of the prettiest gipsy hats I have ever seen, with a wreath of the blue convolvolus; * which you must simply twine round the crown: for you must lay aside your little French bonnet, they being now considered antifushionable. Adieu! dear Julia. Friday's post will determine whether I am destined to follow in the train of fashion's votaries, or soon to embrace those dear fire-side friends, who will ever be sacred to the affections of

But avaunt this moralizing strain! and let me step at once (a prodigious effort of mental agility), from the pulpit to the orchestra-from volumes of ethics to the crowd at Vauxhall. Gladly, I am sure, will Julia go with me in the exchange. Well then,-to this gay spot come along my friend; and gather from the costume selected by fashionables such as Mary and me, a few well-directed arrows for your bow. Our gowns were composed of the same materials, and consisted of India mull muslin, worked in the most delicate and minute sprigs. They were made a walking length; and round the bottom,

ELIZA.

London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Southampton-Street, Strand.

OR,

Bell's

COURT AND FASHIONABLE

MAGAZINE,

FOR AUGUST, 1807.

EMBELLISHMENTS.

1. An elegant Portrait of HER MAJESTY THE QUEEN OF PRUSSIA.

2. FOUR WHOLE-LENGTH FIGURES of LADIES in the London Fashions for the Month.

3. An ORIGINAL SONG, set to Music for the Harp and Piano-Forte, expressly and exclusively for this Work, by Mr. M. P. KING.

4. A new and elegant PATTERN for NEEDLE-WORK.

London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Proprietor of the WEEKLY MESSENGER, Southampton-Street,

Strand, September 1, 1807.

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