THE CRIMEA.

CHAPTER I.

CONTRAST BETWEEN THE NORTH AND SOUTH-ITALY OF RUSSIA-TARTAR VILLAGES-VINES-YALTA-ORIANDA

-ALOUPKA-SINGULAR ROAD-MAGARATCH-YOUR

ZOUF-ALOUSHTA.

NIGHT and day scarcely stand in more distinct antagonism to each other, than do the northern and southern parts of the Crimea ;-the northern consisting of a series of plains and steppes; while, as if to balance this continuity of flatness and desolation, Nature seems to have lavished all her grandeur and beauty on the southern part. Between the northern and southern parts, there is an intermediate district, which somewhat combines the characteristics of both, and comprises numerous valleys, watered by the rivers which flow to the north of the mountains.

The southern, or highland part, to which I have alluded, consists of a noble range of mountains, that slope, with magnificent variety of rock and wood, to the very shores of the sea, to which

B

they run parallel nearly the whole breadth of the peninsula. This mountain range rises from the sea at Cape Aiza, and keeps gradually ascending, till, in the lofty Tchatir Dagh, it attains the height of five thousand feet above the level of the sea, whence it extends, decreasing in height and grandeur, to the valley of Soudagh.

The general features of this range are bold crags and ravines, covered with never-ending forests of pine and oak, and which form a striking contrast to the splendid walnut, chesnut, mulberry, and cypress trees, which vie with one another in beauty, lower down towards the sea. As this chain of mountains forms a screen against the biting winds from the north, the climate is much milder here than on the other side; and although an occasional winter's frost destroys many of the plants which have remained unharmed for years, yet the rhododendron, the magnolia, and many delicate plants, may be seen of large size in the open air.

A good carriage-road runs along the side of this mountain range as far east as Aloushta, on an average about two thousand feet above the level of the sea. Below this road is that part of the

Crimea called the Italy of Russia.

From its beautiful scenery and delightful cli

mate, this district has become the favourite resort of the Russian nobility during the summer season, many of whom possess handsome villas, varying in style and magnificence, and wanting nothing that riches and art can do, to render nature still more lovely. By a traveller, many beautiful spots remain unnoticed, from the undulating nature of the country, and are, some of them, so difficult of access, that it is not uncommon for the proprietors to be obliged to leave their carriages on the high road, themselves to trudge down on foot, while their bags, packages, pillows, and other articles of a Russian's travelling paraphernalia, are carried by their numerous retinue of attendants. I have spent many months at a time at several of these villas, and used to wander, sometimes on foot, sometimes on horseback, into nooks and corners whose beauties could be only discovered when thus visited.

In fine contrast with these charming abodes, Tartar villages are seen perched here and there, all along the south coast. huts here are usually built

side of a hill, so that the back

The Tartar

against the

wall of the

hut is formed by the hill itself. This renders them very warm, and less affected than they would otherwise be by the fearful gusts of

wind which occasionally rush through the ravines from the mountains, venting their fury on everything that offers any resistance. The roofs, which are flat and covered with earth, project beyond the walls, and are supported by wooden pillars, forming a rude verandah, as a protection against the heat of the sun. During the fine summer nights, the Tartars sleep on these flat roofs, many of which are on a level with the high road, from which they are scarcely distinguishable,—so that, passing through some of these villages, one might mistake, and ride or drive into the middle of a family group, at the risk of breaking one's neck, or of falling through into the house below.

I was for some time puzzled to think what was contained in certain huge coarse baskets, raised upon poles, about a yard from the ground, and plastered over with mud, which I perceived as a regular attendant upon every Tartar dwelling; and upon making inquiry, I was told that they were filled with wheat, and were so raised from the ground to prevent the inroads of mice and other such depredators. The hay for the use of their cattle during winter they also stow away in rather a peculiar manner,-by piling it up, like immense nests, on the trunks and branches of the large trees. It is very amusing, you may believe,

to chat with the inhabitants, whose knowledge seldom extends beyond the bounds of their village or its immediate neighbourhood. As a specimen of their unsophisticated state, I may mention that on one occasion, while surrounded by ten or a dozen admiring girls, who touched and felt with wonder everything I had on, I happened to pull off my glove, which was immediately seized by one of them and handed round for inspection; and so greatly were they amused and delighted with the curious skin which I could take off and put on at pleasure, that I left them the pair to keep as a curiosity.

The indolence so proverbial among Eastern nations is well exemplified here, in the groups of idle men, seated (as Tartars always contrive to sit) upon their heels, smoking their chibouks with most enviable indifference to everything that may happen in the world at large. They generally seek the shade of a huge walnut tree, whose produce, amounting sometimes to eighty or a hundred thousand nuts, forms the chief means of subsistence to a whole family. Your gipsies are but a poor attempt at the picturesque, compared with these Tartars and their habitations.

The soil here is particularly suited to the cultivation of the vine, and from its warm, sunny