and still further in the same direction are the remains of the ancient Chersonese. Part of an old wall, and heaps of stones, are all that now remain to mark the site of that once renowned city; everything which had escaped the ravages of time having been destroyed, for the sake of the hewn stones of which its buildings were constructed.

About seven miles to the south of Sevastopol is the Monastery of St. George. It consists of a church and the habitations of a few monks, who have their gardens neatly laid out in terraces facing the sea, to the shores of which there is a steep and difficult descent. The situation is wild and striking, and may suit very well for the monks, one of whom was in the habit of sleeping every night in his coffin; but I should fancy it a very cold, exposed and comfortless abode.

A few miles east of the monastery, the town of Balaclava lies snugly ensconced on the shores of a small bay, which is completely land-locked, and sheltered by high crags from every wind. As the mouth of this bay is so narrow as barely to allow a large vessel to enter, and therefore almost imperceptible from the sea, it was in former times the resort of smugglers; to prevent which, in later years, no vessels at all were al

lowed to trade there, nor even enter the port, unless as a refuge in stormy weather. The original colonists were Greek pirates, who, having rendered good service to the Empress Catherine in her wars with the Turks, were permitted to settle there, and had certain privileges and lands granted to them upon a military tenure. This colony of Arnaouts is now employed to guard the coast against smuggling, and to maintain the observance of the quarantine regulations. There is nothing interesting in the town itself, except the remains of a wall and a fortress, supposed to have been constructed by the Genoese.

Travelling inland, through an uninteresting country, we descend to the valley of Inkerman, passing on our way above the quarries from which the white stone used in the construction of the docks at Sevastopol was taken, and near a tunnel, four hundred feet long, that has been cut through the rock to allow a passage for the water which supplies the docks, and which is collected in a reservoir a few miles up the valley. Following the course of the Tchernaya Retchka, we arrive at the pretty little village of Tchorgona, with its curious old Genoese tower, from the top of which there is a beautiful view of the sursounding country.

Passing through the narrow, but rich and fertile valley of Shouli, we come in sight of the isolated rock on which are situated the remains of Mangoup Kalé. The greater part of this ancient fortress was protected by the lofty crags and precipices on which it is built; and, on the only side by which it is accessible, there was a high, strongly-built wall, which is now fallen in many places. We ascended the hill by a steep road leading to a gate, by which we entered, and found ourselves in the midst of a mass of ruins; part of a church, of a Jewish synagogue, and of some buildings probably connected with the defences of the town, being all that can accurately be distinguished. At the extremity of the platform, where the rock is the most precipitous, many caves and habitations have been hewn in it. We descended by steps cut in the stone to a large apartment, with passages leading to various other smaller ones, but as it was neither easy nor safe, we did not explore them any further.

The former history of this fortress is little known; but from what remains of it, we may conclude that it has been inhabited by Greeks, Genoese, Jews and Tartars, in rotation. It is said that at the period of the conquest of the Crimea by the Russians, the last body of Tartars who made any

resistance took refuge here, but were soon obliged to surrender, the place being completely commanded by some hills in the vicinity.

The view from Mangoup Kalé is very diversified and beautiful, surrounded as it is by lovely valleys interspersed with hills and rocks, between which, in the distance, the bay and town of Sevastopol on the one side, and the towering range of the south coast hills on the other, are distinctly discernible.

Descending from the heights, we enter the valley of Karolez, than which nothing can possibly be more picturesque ;—its pretty villages, its shady gardens, and its sparkling stream, surmounted by fantastically shaped rocks, making it really a little paradise.

Beyond this, crossing the Belbek and Katcha, we traverse a country without interest and devoid of all beauty, until we reach once more Baghtché Sarai.

CHAPTER VI.

ZOUIA-NEUSATZ-FRIEDENTHAL

ROSENTHAL-GERMAN COLONISTS-CULTIVATION OF THE POTATO-SLY MODE OF STEALING THEM-KARA-SOU BAZAAR-CORN MARKET-ESKI KRIM-PALACE OF THE KHANS-COLONY

STARTING once more from Simpheropol, and crossing the Salghir at the entrance to the town, we continue our course through an uneven country covered with dry grass, and without anything worthy of remark, till we arrive at Zouia, a Russian village, situated upon a rivulet of that name, which flows into the Salghir about fifteen miles from Simpheropol. A little further on to the right, where the country becomes rich and wooded, are three large German colonies, Neusatz, Friedenthal, and Rosenthal; and here one might suppose oneself on the banks of the Rhine, rather than in this remote corner of Europe.

These colonists, along with several others, had a grant of land from Government at the time