1882.] SOTOMAYOR. 231 struck with the town. The commandant of the fort (Señor Llorentes) called on us, reminding me that I had given him permission to accompany the Abyssinian Expedition in 1868. He was very friendly, and recommended us to take a drive either towards Bargona (which would be nearly in the direction we shall take in sailing to Lisbon) or to Sotomayor, lying inland about fourteen kilometres. Señor Sagasta's house is in that neighbourhood. Quiet evening. The roll in the harbour indicates a good deal of wind outside. Voted that we would stay here another day before going on to Lisbon. "Dec. 4.-Ordered two carriages to take us to Redondela, the station two or three miles short of Sotomayor. The steward found us a smart young man to go with us as guide and interpreter. He combines this calling with that of a butcher or a purveyor of meat. We did not exactly make out his name: it was something like 'Thomas.' He had been in England, and received part of his education at the Brighton College. His father is said to have been a purveyor of meat to the British navy. It was a rather showery stormy day at times, but mild, and beautiful between whiles. Lady Northcote, Helen, and I went in one carriage with the guide on the box; the others went in the other carriage, Harry acting as conversation-master. We took our lunch with us, and found a very clean, tidy sort of posada at Redondela, where we got a room and refreshed ourselves. The younger members of the party went out for a walk, while Lady Northcote and I amused ourselves looking out at the window. It is a queer little place, but has a thriving air. We observed a great many houses in which the lower storey was devoted to cattle and pigs, while the upper one was neatly got up and formed the habitation of the family. There is an air of politeness and even of dignity about the people. We were much struck with their quiet manner, not staring at our party, although we must have imported a good deal of strange life into the place. We got back in the afternoon, and spent the rest of the day on board: The wind still very high." The weather continued to be most unruly; but on December 9 they found themselves at Gibraltar, where Lord and Lady Napier showed them no little kindness. The diary runs on :— The weather is now what Gibraltar calls cold. We should call it fresh. From the telegrams we learn that there is severe frost and fog in London. Mr Pender has been very kind in directing the agents of the Eastern Telegraph Company to furnish me with the summary of English news every day at all the stations in the Mediterranean which we may visit. This is a very great boon. He also gives me the privilege of sending messages free of charge, as 'service messages.' Had service on board. After luncheon the younger members went on shore for a walk. Weather very 'catchy'; and several sharp showers. Read aloud the fourth book of Paradise Lost' in the evening. Dec. 11.-A rainy day. We all went on shore and got safely to the Convent, where Lord Napier showed us over 1882.] GIBRALTAR. 233 the house and tried to show the garden; but weather did not permit. So Margaret and I settled ourselves to a game of billiards, and the others looked over photographs, and otherwise amused themselves with the A.D.C.'s, Major Napier, Major Gilbard, and Mr Napier. After luncheon the younger members attempted a walk and donkey-ride, and succeeded in seeing the galleries, and in getting wet. Lady Northcote and I took a drive in a close carriage to the North Front, and afterwards to the Governor's Cottage at Europa Point, so as to get a general idea of the place; but the rain greatly marred our enjoyment. The 'West Indian Aloes' or 'Socotras,' and the Bougainvilleas' were most beautiful. The exceptional character of the weather was strongly impressed upon us. I remembered that it was exceptional when I was here in 1869, and am inclined to Perhaps the rule proves suspect that it generally is so. the exception, just as the tail sometimes wags the dog. Lord Napier told me he always insisted on tanks being put up at every house which the Government let to any one, as he seemed to think the supply of water very precarious.” On this occasion the supply of water was vastly in excess of the demand. They gleaned the impression of Gibraltar, which Charles II. derived from Taunton, that it is always raining there. Indeed, if the weather was exceptional, it persevered in being "still more exceptional" day by day, and, as in another case of bad years in finance, "not to be exceptional was the exception." They were told that Tangiers would prove a haven hard to win, and were warned as to the strength of "The running seas Between the Pillars called of Heracles." “Dec. 13.—No Tangiers to-day. The rain has taken courage, and the wind is following its lead. We spent all the morning on board; but were able to go on shore in the afternoon, and to pay a very long visit to Mrs Ramaggee, the great lace-dealer, who delighted our ladies with a great many beautiful specimens, giving me a Newfoundland puppy to play with meanwhile, that I might not become impatient and carry off her customers too quickly. They made several purchases, and then Jack and Helen started for a walk up the Rock, while Lady Northcote, Harry, and I went to Benoliel's shop, where, however, we were rather disappointed with the much-vaunted collection of Moorish ornaments. We made a few purchases, and returned to the yacht. "Dec. 14.-Started at 4 A.M., but were not energetic enough to get up to see the last of Gibraltar. When we did come on deck we found ourselves approaching Malaga, with a brilliant sun and fresh breeze in our favour. The Sierra Nevada and Sierra Ronda are great features in the scene; and Malaga itself is picturesquely situated, though a dirty and unattractive town when you are in it. The old line of fortifications looks well, and the cathedral is well placed. The officials were rather troublesome, and the doctor who came with them was anxious to put us in quarantine because our captain had gone on shore with the ship's papers. They asked us pointedly whether anybody on board was ill. Our ladies are now such good 1882.] MALAGA-PORT MAHON. 235 sailors that there was no scruple in answering for them; and I judiciously suppressed the fact that I was 'travelling for my health,' as it would have given our friends a grand opportunity for displaying their authority. The British consul, Mr Bidwell, came on board, and was very useful to us. He accompanied us to shore and to the Protestant cemetery, where we visited his poor brother Mowbray's grave, The cemetery is beautifully kept, and there is an air of peace about it, with its lovely flowers and beautiful sea-view. We came back to the yacht at twelve, and hastily wrote a few letters, as the post goes at one. Off again about 1.15, and had by far the pleasantest day's sail we have yet experienced. It seemed as if all our troubles were over, and that we were really going to have a good time. The coast very fine, and the sunset most beautiful. In the evening began to read aloud the Bride of Lammermoor.' "Dec. 15.- Varium et mutabile semper.' All our hopes dashed by a storm in the night, and a high sea all day. Found ourselves abreast of C. Palos when we got up to breakfast. Kept along the Spanish coast as far as C. Nao, and then began to strike for Iviza and so to Port Mahon. "Dec. 17 (Sunday).—In Port Mahon. A splendid resting-place. We appreciated Andrea Doria's saying that there were four good harbours in the Mediterranean, June, July, August, and Port Mahon. After service the guide (Francis Prieto) came on board, and we desired him to order a carriage. After luncheon, Lady Northcote, Margaret, and I went for a drive in an open carriage drawn |