who was sitting up reading. After disturbing all the camp I got to my own tent at last. The position of it had been changed owing to the arrival of Colonel Percy Herbert and others at Head-Quarters. We were near the famous ruins of Kunouj to-day, the great Hindoo city and seat of empire. An old man who sold rosewater and preserved tamarinds, and who told us he had been guide to Lord Lake, promised to come in the evening and conduct us to the place, but he did not keep his word, and so I missed seeing those very wonderful remains, which are, however, only appreciable by one who is better versed in Hindoo antiquities than most of us are. Only one or two officers went; and they came back, declaring it was a "do-a sham, nothing but old bricks and rubbish."

April 23rd.-Meerun-ke-serai to Gooshaigunj near the Ganges. Slaughtered some fine peacocks under our tope, and saw some deer; but the heat was so intense I dared not stir out to stalk them. Sir Colin pushed on straight to Futtehguhr, where he has summoned General Penny to meet him, and the latter will have a ride of sixty miles ere he can keep the appointment. This morning Sir Colin gave me a good idea of the Rohilcund operations. Penny is to cross the Ganges and to clear the Budaon district, which is full of rebels, and then he is to join Sir Colin, who will pass over at Futtehguhr, and take command of Walpole's column, now on the Ramgunga, where Walpole gave a large body of the enemy a defeat, after his check before Royea. Meanwhile, Jones and Coke will march down from the northwest towards Bareilly; Khan Bahadoor Khan and

all the Rohilcund rebels are there in force; but I fear they will slip through our fingers; we are very short of cavalry.

April 24th.- From Gooshaigunj to Kamalgunj. Left at 2 A.M., arrived at 6:15; road villanous to a degree. Passed the Kalanuddee by the suspensionbridge, at the place where Sir Colin beat the Nuwab of Furruckabad and the Futtehguhr rebels on the 2nd January. They had a very strong position, and had they destroyed the bridge altogether, they would have caused us serious inconvenience; but they only took up the planking! It is a very strange, and to me an unaccountable fact, that the rebels have never yet thoroughly destroyed a bridge, or cut up roads, or impeded communication. At Delhi, they left portions of the drawbridges down at the Cashmere and other gates. Here the cavalry, under Hope Grant, got on their flanks, and Hodson gave them a glorious. hunt. The consequence of our success was, that Futtehguhr and Furruckabad were abandoned without a struggle. The village bears mark of our shot still.

April 25th.-Marched into Futtehguhr this morning at 6:15. Passing through a city of ruins, desolated bungalows, and burnt station, came to a high and spacious mud-fort. Passed through gateways up to a compound inside, and found Alison and Baird and others drinking tea in front of a large bungalow. These were the quarters of Legeyt Bruce, who was acting as superintendent of the gun-carriage department here, and to whom I was armed with letters of introduction. To my immense delight, he offered me part of a room. Before breakfast we went down

to the ruins of Maharajah Dhuleep Sing's park, garden, and palaces, where there is a most delicious swimming-bath, in which we had an invigorating tumble. Dined with Sir Colin in the evening, where I had the pleasure of meeting Brigadier Seaton, a very intelligent, smart, gentlemanly man, and in look and manner quite bearing out the reputation he has gained for decision, dash, and soldierly qualities.

CHAPTER XXIV.

Dhuleep Sing's bath.-A savage, beastly, and degrading custom.The column filing off.-Told off to an elephant.-Fields strewed with skeletons.-Junction with Walpole.—An Indian storm.— -A short but grateful sleep.-Difficulty of keeping Highlanders back. Sir William Peel no more!-An English soldier and his "presner."-Desperate kick from a horse.-Mounted on a tumbril.-A day of drowsy pain.-More dooly travelling.General Penny killed.-Disaster at Kukrowlee.-Halt near Shahjehanpore.-Ride through the city.-Sea of mango groves. -Conflicting reports from Bareilly.-Bamboo backsheesh.Expected engagements.

April 26th. We returned this morning from the Maharajah's bath, to breakfast in a small pagoda or mosque inside a large serai, which is used by our officers as a kind of club. How the natives must be disgusted at our use of the holy places! I was very much shocked to see in this court-yard, two native servants, covered with plaisters and bandages, and bloody, who were lying on their charpoys, moaning. On inquiring, my friend was informed by one of the guests, they were So-and-So's servants, who had just been "licked" by him. It is a savage, beastly, and degrading custom. I have heard it defended; but no man of feeling, education, or goodness of heart can vindicate or practise it. The sobs of the poor

men, who sat by the

woman, the wife of one of the charpoys, were most affecting; but not a soul went to comfort or say a kind word to her. The master who had administered his "spiriting" so gently to his delinquent domestics, sat sulky and sullen, and, I hope, ashamed of his violence, at the table; but he had no fear of any pains or penalties of the law.

I had a day of cool work, in a cool room, in which the thermometer was only SS°. Bruce brewed mighty beakers of claret-cup; Mylne sent us in bottles of craftily-constructed and scientifically-refrigerated milk-punch. And lo! round comes the AdjutantGeneral's chuprassee with the orders. And they are very distressing. We march at 12 to-night, and cross the Ganges into Rohilcund, which is one great rebel ant-hill. At dusk, Bruce and myself rode over to our camp, which was pitched in a tope about a mile. outside the fort of Futtehguhr, and dined at our mess. After dinner, I was obliged to return to the fort to see my tent packed. It was bright moonlight, and the little plateau inside, in front of the bungalow, presented a curious sight, for the tents were already down, and the few inhabitants of this quarter were in the open. Sir Colin was fast asleep in his chair, in the open air; Mansfield was writing at a small table under a tree; Crealock copying letters and despatches on his knees. Having seen my goods and chattels off, I returned to camp, where our elephants were to be in readiness at midnight. It was resolved to use those useful creatures for the first part of the march. On my way back, I met the vast column filing off towards the bridge. Some of the rear-guard begged that I would take measures to prevent a drunken artilleryman, who had tumbled into a hole, from coming to harm. They were obliged to hurry on after their comrades. All tents were down in camp, and the officers were lying asleep in their cloaks. I made out Macpherson, the Quartermaster-General, who was placidly reposing on his charpoy, and reported the artilleryman's case to him. "If it's from drink,"