cashier of the Smallville bank with a total income of about $2000 a year. This income is to be considered in connection with the fact that, such is the cost of living in Smallville, eggs sell for ten cents a dozen; the best butter is from fifteen to twenty cents a pound; porterhouse steak is fifteen cents. The man owns his home. He is a prominent member of the church. He might be mayor of the city, but "business is business," so he leaves political preferment to the saloon element, who find it not incompatible with business success. Church circles and high society in general in Smallville look down on politics; indeed, it is held to be an indication of real superiority to look down on Smallville. Cows run the streets; saloons are wide open all day Sunday; taxes are scandalously disproportionate to public improvements; but -it is Smallville. What can one expect of a town like Smallville? As often as business permits, the cashier of the Smallville bank runs down to the city. For the whole Middle West, the city is Chicago. He buys clothing for the family there, and tea and coffee and fine groceries-what can one find fit to eat or wear in Smallville? He goes about Chicago, deafened by the roar of the life there, intoxicated by the motion of it; he rubs his hands together in the warmth of his satisfaction, and declares, "Ah! this is something like!" Then he remembers bitterly that he is out of it-in Smallville. Behold! here is the measure of his own greatness! One day the tempter meets him. A Chicago man looking for fresh brains and plump purses offers him an opportunity to get away from Smallville and go into business in Chicago. Now the woman enters. What shall the wife decide? For the man always tells his friend in Chicago that he must go back to Smallville and talk it over with his wife. What does she say? Ninety-nine times out of a hundred she decides in favor of going to Chicago. She wants to be near the great shops. She likes style; she wants to be in it. She says it will be a great opportunity for the children. And what does the hundredth wife decide? That she prefers a nice, airy home of her own with a splendid shady yard to a six-room flat in Chicago; that the public school of Smallville in which $20,000 has been invested is good enough for her children, who can always run home at recess for a kiss and an apple until they are old enough to enter the State university on a diploma from the Smallville high-school; that, so far as the husband is concerned, it is better to be somebody in a small town than nobody in a great city; and as for the shortcomings of Smallville, what's to hinder the best people of the place making the town as good as they are? Thus one sees that this universal American problem, for a rational solution, compels only the achievement of another problem: How multiply the one-hundredth wife? A Summer Plea VERY man and woman who loves children should contribute during the American cities. The organizers of fresh-air funds, free-ice funds, sick-baby funds, and pure-milk stations are doing really great work. They should have the praise and respect of every citizen, and the financial assistance of all who can afford even the smallest aid. The care of the helpless, both old and young, is the highest duty of a civilized community. No man or woman who has the smallest surplus of time or money should evade a just share of the general responsibility. Therefore-do something for the poor, and do it now. The pattern illustrated hereCut Paper Pattern No. 464-has some most attractive features. First and most important, it has the large sleeves that are so necessary now with the existing styles of the sleeves in gowns. The shape of these, falling as they do in a graceful box pleat toward the back, is especially pretty and original. The design lends itself well to decoration. Any handsome lace that one happens to possess may be used, and bands of rich fur may be combined with it with very smart effect. A lace shawl may be draped around the shoulders in cape shape over the cloth, or a cape may be made especially for it. A design is illustrated here for a lace cape suitable for use with LOOSE WINTER CLOAK. Cut Paper Pattern No. 464. Sizes, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, and 42 inches bust measure. Price, 50 cents. DUCHESS LACE CAPE PATTERN. such a cloak. The pattern for this cape, stamped on cambric and ready for working, may be purchased for twenty-five cents. The pattern is a very beautiful one, combining duchess and Trianon braids and the very effective Renaissance rings. AUTUMN STREET SUIT GOOD simple style of coat-and-skirt costume, suited for all ages, but especially designed for middle-aged women is shown here as Pattern No. 465. The coat or skirt pattern may be purchased separately. The narrow pipings of a contrasting color may be replaced by braid, and the suit may be brightened by the use of metallic buttons. The waistcoat is a part of the coat, fastened in place securely under the straight revers and lined the same as the body of the coat. The design is a suitable one for all cheviots and cloths for autumn and winter wear. The skirt should be made with a drop-skirt cut by any good gored pattern, preferably a sevengore model. The lower part of the skirt is in the form of a curved flounce, attached under the deep tuck. This design is a particularly good and becoming one for short, stout women, as the long front gore and revers give an effect of height, while the shaped flounce provides the graceful fulness necessary to a good appearance. Directions for shortening the skirt are given on the printed slips that accompany the patterns. TH HE patterns given on the accompanying supplement are drafted to the same proportions and after the same style as the BAZAR's cut paper patterns. On the supplement all seams are allowed, and the width is indicated clearly on the sheet. As many persons prefer to pay the cost of the pattern rather than to trace it from the sheet, the BAZAR has arranged that these patterns are for sale at the same prices as are the cut paper patet that in the case of the supplement patterns, which are given only in the one size which seems best suited to the design, double price must be paid when a different size is to be drafted to special order. A Winter Morning Dress VERY simple but smart shirt-waist suit is illustrated here, and is given in size 34 inches bust measure on the pattern sheet, the miniature outline of the various parts being shown in Diagram Group I. The skirt is the regulation seven-gore model, which is a good one for any material. It has as a decoration, pointed pieces of a contrasting material set in at each seam (except the centre back), lines of braid being laid and stitched on or the material itself being striped or dotted. A yoke terial and a similar piece at each side of the blouse and in the front and back of each sleeve give variety to the waist. The collar and cuffs are similarly trimmed. The seams and all edges of the dark material are stitched with silk. The back of the skirt has an in WINTER MORNING DRESS.-NO. TS. Sire, 34 inches bust measure only of the contrasting ma- See Diagram Group I., Pattern-sheet Supplement. verted pleat which may be stitched flat to a point below the placquet opening. In cutting the skirt pattern each form should be laid on the cloth with the front edge on a straight thread of i material, the front gore, of course, having the line marked "centre front" laid on a lengthwise fold. The notches in the sides of each gore show how the parts go together. Six parts like No. 6 should be cut, the length of the shape being laid lengthwise on the trimming material. If these parts are to be braided, the braid should be stitched on before the pieces are set into the skirt. Each seam of the skirt should be stitched down to the point where the trimming V begins, and it should be stitched open also, this stitching on each side of the seam, continuing down and thus fastening the V in place. The skirt should be fitted before these points are put in. All of the BAZAR'S women's skirt patterns are cut the uniform length of 43 inches, finished front. If . YOUNG GIRL'S NIGHTGOWN. NO. 80. this is too long for the prospective wearer, measure, and on the sheet the skirt parts are only three-quarter length. If a full-length cloak is desired the same lines may be carried out to the necessary extent. The fronts are fitted over the bust by means of a small dart, and under the arm is another dart or side seam. This and the curve in at the sides and back give all the shaping that is necessary for such a cloak. A fancy trimming band for the neck is provided, but this may be omitted when the pattern is to be used for a severely simple rain coat, and a plain bias band like that down the front may be used instead to finish the neck. The double cape is the smartest style for a cloth coat. For reception or evening wear, however, a single cape of heavy lace and a trimming of fur or heavy galloon may be used with very striking effect. Young Girl's Nightgown SIMPLE but most charming nightgown Afor a young girl or for a slight gown may be made with a tiny yoke of all-over embroidery or tucking. Seven yards of nainsook or lawn a yard wide will cut the gown in full length-this is the correct length for a woman who wears a 43-inch skirt. This al any change in length may be made by folding lows also for a deep hem. The little yoke pat a crosswise pleat in each form at about the middle. The yoke and collar should be joined before any braid is put on. The waist opens at the left side or at the centre of the back, as preferred. If the latter, in cutting an inch lap should be allowed for on each side of the centre back line instead of that line being laid on a fold. To make the complete gown 534 yards of 42-inch material or 5 yards of broadcloth will be needed. Of contrasting cloth 12 yards will cut the trimming parts. THE Rain or Evening Cloak HE rain coat has become so universal a garment, and is so simple to make with a good pattern and a little skill in stitching and pressing, that it is no longer necessary to go to an expensive tailor for such a garment. Seven yards of water-proof cloth 50 or 52 inches wide will cut the coat in full length for a woman whose skirt measure is 43 inches. For an evening cloak or dust cloak in threequarter length, for which the pattern is also suitable, 4 yards of cloth will be needed or 8 yards of pongee 27 inches wide. The pattern is given in size 36 inches bust LITTLE GIRL'S MORNING FROCK.-NO. 81. Size, 5 years only. Price, 35 cents. See Diagram Group IV., Pattern-sheet Supplement. |
